Who was wrenching today??? What did you do??

[Tallbump]

Made a little more progress on the toy I picked up to donate the body for a 1/24 crawler

That's sitting on a stock Basecamp chassis with 43MM shocks with no springs. It's also just sitting there, not mounted.

I am working on wheelbase/driveshaft now.

It will go on this chassis and I am going to get a nice LCG chassis for the Basecamp.

 

[Littlemotor]

Nothing glorious, and not TECHNICALLY “wrenchin’”, but I’ve been meaning to do this for a while now..

With the recent customer influx of Tekno builds, and upcoming (finally ) builds of my own; I figured I’d sit down, and inventory EXACTLY what fasteners I go through in a single build. This will help in many respects; I’ve been ordering 2.0 “screw KIT”’s, PLUS several single bags of specific fasteners that aren’t “by the book”, and we’ve had several running changes/improvements to the NB/NT/NT/ET 2.x line of vehicles. I do swap out a LOT of buttons, and cap screws in favor of flat heads w/countersunk washers (m3 & m4), as well as completely change up the fastener duty altogether (steering rack, shock standoff’s, camber links, rear chassis brace, etc..). Also, I end up with a good amount of surplus fasteners that I’ll never use because of the aforementioned substitutions. If I purchase fasteners “à la carte”, I’ll still end up with surplus, but they’ll actually get used in the future with routine maintenance, and complete overhauls/rebuilds.. If the price is at least ON PAR with what I typically spend per build, then that would be awesome.. Turns out-I’ll save a little over $25 per build.. I’m stoked. Honestly would not have guessed that, but I’ll definitely take it..

Boring work, but very helpful in the end, and I’ll be running much more efficiently-while saving loot, and actually accruing USEABLE surplus fasteners..

 

[TeknoJ]

I finally got to open it, let’s start wrenchin

 

[DavidB1126]

Typhon.
Out with the old bent GPM 6061 towers and in with the OEM (7075, they say) towers.
Rear suspension feels ALOT more better now. More plush and more free.
Also EXB shock standoffs on all 4 corners now. Should be good to go. (Putting them on the rear also helped it free up a bit like above)
I've been running the EXB standoffs in the front for a few months now without any issues so should be more than good to go. But if I ever break one. I have a 4mm upgrade standoffs, just need to drill out the towers to make them fit but I don't see myself doing that anytime soon unless I crash or land terribly.

Rusty:
Regluing tires for this weekend and also added some washers behind the screw head/nut on the body for the spoiler so it doesn't rip through.
(Its real when you get out the flannel PJs )

 

[Ramp addict]

Making the MT48 racier for the Princes. Sway bars, smaller wheels (4s Backflips), and redoing the diffs (50/500/30). I also have an unbreakable ripoff of a Jconcepts space beadle that will be going on it.

 

[Ramp addict]

The update.
The Princessmobile in all its glory.

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

not really wrenching, but it was RC related. spent about 3 hours organizing hardware yesterday. got a couple hobo freight small 18 compartment storage containers for Christmas. sorted my hardware by head, thread, and length. my toolbox looks empty now. going to make finding things sooo much easier.

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

found my "clicking" noise in the winter beater. call me crazy but i don't think gear boxes are supposed to be full of metal shaving and dust like that. the idler gear is chewed the hell up! strange thing is, its the same Hot Racing 30t idler gear i run in the stadium truck that has 10x's the run time and a faster motor and that trucks all good. idk why it happened.
the good news is, the rest of the gears look fine. so idk why that one gave up the ghost.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Not technically wrenching, but been working on my scale solar panel this weekend. Plan is to use resin to bring it all together

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

Wheely King has a new servo. faster and more torque, truck actually steers now.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

I little difficult to photograph. But got the epoxy into my scale solar panel. There are some teeny air bubbles, but I think it'll look good...at least the concept is sound

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Looks pretty good after the cure overnight. Probably touch up one spot I'm not 100% happy with and just a little cleanup on the edges

 

[Littlemotor]

Not REEEEEEALLY “wrenching”, but it’s RC related, so didn’t wanna share it to the other thread..

Making revisions to my wall mounts for the shop. I was in a big F’n hurry to get some vehicles off the floor, and the bench a few months back, but have had this project on the agenda for a hot minute now..

I loved having them mounted on the wall (and off the floor & bench), but couldn’t stand them being at a 90..

I’ve removed the mounts from the wall, and am working on closing the angle up to a 45’ (which is technically a 135’ brake).. The arc is actually closer to about 50’, but I’m happy with the result-especially while straight up caveman’n it with VERY rudimentary tools, and miscellaneous lumber scraps to do up a functioning fixture/jig that produces repeatable, and consistent(ish) results..

Although it’s in the photo-I am NOT using “the persuader” to beat these L-brackets into place. I only had it out to shim (with flat bar) the wrecking bar for minimal deflection as I do not want the fulcrum to change until I’m ready. I then remove the flat bar, and raise the wrecking bar about .75” to finish the brake without any binding.

This shot is AFTER I’ve removed the flat bar from between the wrecking bar, and 4x4 “chock”.. I then made the second “brake” but at the same point on the bracket. This is due to the geometry of the fixture. I also allow the wrecking bar to SLIDE “down” the L-bracket (formerly ) as I brake it over.

Pretty consistent. I’m using the C-clamp as a “stop”, but still go a little, and re-check, then again.. Until I’m happy with it.

Halfway there. Once I’m done, I’ll move on to the next part of the project.

I’ve got some opaque black Acrylic plate/sheet that I’ll be sizing, cutting, and affixing to each bracket. Each plate will get some 3M Adhesive backed silicone cut into pads, as well as some round stock to bend up as “hangers” at the inboard portion of my rear control arms on each vehicle. Nothing fancy, but should do the job, and not look like homemade shoes when they’re in use, or when certain vehicles are missing because THEY are “in use”..

 

[Finesavageboy2]

Just put the the motor and esc in the slash!

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

replaced the bent shock shaft on the Dromida MT.
fixed the popped off shock end and "fixed" (re adjusted) the broken rear body mounts on the Kyosho Stadium Baja.
tightened up the wheel nuts on the generic stadium truck.

found a drive pin on the floor. I'm afraid to start looking at what it goes to...

 

[Lostinthewoods86]

Finally getting back to this project.

Finished tearing it down. Need to clean the bench now

 

[desmobob]

I finished up on my Vanquish H10 Optic kit early this afternoon and then spent the remainder of the day kicking myself for not having a receiver on hand to complete the radio installation and test run the buggy.

 

[Tallbump]

Didn't grab any pics but I was working on figuring out the wheelbase and mounting options for putting the toy Jeep body on a stock SCX24 chassis.
This is the toy I took apart to use

 

[Suburban_Hooligan]

parts showed up today.
replaced the idler gear, top gear, top shaft, and ditched the puck slipper for asbestos in the winter beater. so that's back to running.
replaced not one, but two bottom caps on the SC10 shocks. couldn't remember what oil i had in them, so i put 35 in there. so that's back to running.
id really like it if stuff would stop breaking.

 

[OnwardGuinevere]

Replaced the spur gear I thrashed on my buggy, locktite on the pinion gear (should have done that in the first place..I always forget). Resoldered one wore that was poorly connected and got my motor spinning the proper direction.
Now I can drive it without the forward throttle being reverse