What type of thread locker?

[thatcraig]

Which type of thread locker will let the bolt loosen after awhile? I've heard the blue and the red kind..

 

[9x19]

Blue is removable without heat. Red requires heat to soften it enough for removal.

 

[DavidB1126]

Blue is semi permanent and is what you want. Red is permanent.

I use Blue all the time. I used the glue stick kind, and the liquid. The liquid gets on and in the threads easier, and works better than the glue stick.

 

[thatcraig]

Thanks guys ill be sure to get some blue thread locker.

 

[RustyUs]

A blue/medium strength gel type threadlocker is my favorite for general RC metal to metal use.

That 6ml tube will generally last me two years.

Some instances, for me, I'll use red/high strength threadlocker. I've bought three different brands/types over the years. After watching video of person testing red threadlockers, I settled on JB Weld brand for pesky 1/8 scale pinion gear grub screw, because my other stuff didn't cut it.

Sometimes you will run into a list of types of threadlockers to maybe help choose what's right for you....

 

[bill_delong]

I recently experimented with the Permatex Orange and have been happier with the Blue VibraTite gel based thread lock referenced above giving me better results than any liquid based thread lock.

I have also used Red Vibratite and can confirm that it requires heat to break loose... I have also used this on my pinion gears and sometimes the motor gets hot enough to still allow the Red to melt and pinion gear has still come loose on me. That's when I know I need to install a cooling fan on the motor

 

[Lumikko]

Red VibraTite has an operational top limit of 165˚F or 74˚C. More than that is required to loosen it.

Your motor is running pretty damn hot if the heat from the windings in the can gets to the rotor that doesn’t physically touch them, and is conducted further to the shaft underneath the pinion, and also gives enough heat to bring the pinion up to a high enough temperature to loosen the threadlock.

 

[ahr43]

Thanks for the chart, RustyUs. Very useful.

Blue locker is the go-to in my shop. Have used green wicking in the past to tighten a bearing outer surface in its bore after the housing begins to wear. Not a permanent fix, but enough to get by for a run or two while waiting for replacement parts to arrive.

Hmm. Might give purple a try. Anymore all my runs are short duration, so fasteners don't have a chance to loosen. Still, I'd like a little insurance on the pinion grub. Purple may provide that.

 

[bill_delong]

Red VibraTite has an operational top limit of 165˚F or 74˚C. More than that is required to loosen it.

Your motor is running pretty damn hot if the heat from the windings in the can gets to the rotor that doesn’t physically touch them, and is conducted further to the shaft underneath the pinion, and also gives enough heat to bring the pinion up to a high enough temperature to loosen the threadlock.

I race in Texas 1/8 outdoor tracks with ambient temps in the summer around 110°+

Not uncommon for my motors to reach 180° in the summer, according to the HW manual, they limit 212° before damage begins to occur:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual__XERUN_4268-4274_G3.pdf?v=1608660018

 

[Jamr]

Good info here. Thanks and bookmarked!

 

[Lumikko]

I race in Texas 1/8 outdoor tracks with ambient temps in the summer around 110°+

Not uncommon for my motors to reach 180° in the summer, according to the HW manual, they limit 212° before damage begins to occur

That’s the temperature of the can. The windings are right below the surface.

Having the rotor reach that kind of temperatures and conduct it via the motor shaft to the pinion is a situation that sounds unlikely to me.

You could have a can that burns your finger and still be able to touch the pinion gear. If you get the pinion hot enough to loosen the threadlock on the grub screw the rest of the motor may very well be hot enough to cause damage.

However, if practice has shown that the motor is fine but the threadlocker loses its grip because of the heat, then the solution is obviously a higher temp threadlock. If something works but I suspect it doesn’t, then it works.

 

[bill_delong]

I usually check my motor temps at the end of every 10 min practice session and rarely get readings above 180°F and that's usually an indicator that something else has gone wrong like a seized bearing, etc... I can confirm that the red thread lock melts and pinion gear is at risk of sliding out of position when my motor temps are in the 180°F range... I make it a point to check my pinion before every main and will often apply fresh red thread lock just before a main to play it safe

 

[Jerold]

Always use heat when removing a bolt. The tiny RC screws are not meant for that massive amounts of threadlock we use on them.

I'm currently using this stuff. Is sufficiently gooey and doesn't run all over. It holds stuff in pretty well, no complaints.

https://a.co/d/ddXmbo2

I also tried the paste, which is great. But it dried up pretty quickly.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71jBFWgDr5L._SL1500_.jpg

 

[WutUp Clegg]

I use the purple. I never had an issue and I never striped a head trying to take the screw/bolt out.