What is the make of this Nitro car?

[gandalfnz]

Honestly the 25k is a little under powered for the nitro. Really should be running 35k minimal 30kg IMO.. I only run 25k in 1/10 buggies and that's a big maybe.. if I'm in a pinch. Nothing wrong with the cheaper servos. It's really comes down to its specs. You definitely want more tourqe and speed then needed when it comes to the steering. Can't go wrong with stronger then needed servo. only talking a couple of bucks difference

Really because the original servo was weaker than 25kg, and no swirling.
I can definitely see this servo being more powerful, when I turn the wheels when car is stationary.

Come to think of it, maybe that's how I stuffed up my steering, I did a lot of static testing when I installed the new servo, and I think this is a good way to stuff up your servo saver?

 

[STONER RC]

6V. The old pack had a weird wiring issue, it would only cut out when you blip the servo really quick.
I use eneloop pro batts, so I don't think its that.
Its going to take a few weeks to get the servo horn from China, but I will def report back when I get it, that is if it fits my car.
I will give TSM receiver another go, maybe TSM was turned up too high (50%) and that's why it couldn't auto correct.
Will even try to put the old servo back on, as the car definitely wasn't doing this before.

Do you know how to solder? You could fix the wiring your self. It says 6v when just off charger?

 

[gandalfnz]

Do you know how to solder? You could fix the wiring your self. It says 6v when just off charger?

Yea, I can solder, but had a new batt holder, so just binned the old one as it had some rust on the contact points. Once they start to rust, they are rubbish.
Yes, 6v when off the charger, about 1.5 per cell when fully charged for NiMh is pretty good.

 

[STONER RC]

Yea, I can solder, but had a new batt holder, so just binned the old one as it had some rust on the contact points. Once they start to rust, they are rubbish.
Yes, 6v when off the charger, about 1.5 per cell when fully charged for NiMh is pretty good.

Shoot my hump pack is sitting at 7v and I last charged it over month ago..

 

[gandalfnz]

Shoot my hump pack is sitting at 7v and I last charged it over month ago..

NiMh or Lipo?
Think you have a LiPo, I use AA's.

 

[STONER RC]

Really because the original servo was weaker than 25kg, and no swirling.
I can definitely see this servo being more powerful, when I turn the wheels when car is stationary.

Come to think of it, maybe that's how I stuffed up my steering, I did a lot of static testing when I installed the new servo, and I think this is a good way to stuff up your servo saver?

Oh man that's probably definitely the problem. You always want to keep the wheels off ground.. fastest way to burn out a servo.. is to dry test

NiMh or Lipo?
Think you have a LiPo, I use AA's.

I would say lipo. It's a nimh. Oh AA that also could be your problem. Get a hump pack. Or better AA's

 

[gandalfnz]

Oh man that's probably definitely the problem. You always want to keep the wheels off ground.. fastest way to burn out a servo.. is to dry test

Live and learn, but I don't think I buggered all 3 servos.
But I might have damaged the servo saver instead.
However what confuses me is, that if servo saver was damaged, then I would be able to turn the wheels by hand when forcing them, as the servo horn would just slip. But it does not.

 

[STONER RC]

Live and learn, but I don't think I buggered all 3 servos.
But I might have damaged the servo saver instead.
However what confuses me is, that if servo saver was damaged, then I would be able to turn the wheels by hand when forcing them, as the servo horn would just slip. But it does not.

You should be able to turn the wheels by hand. If you can't I would say the servo is locked up or fried.. the wheels don't turn at all when you try to turn them by hand.
And you checked to make sure nothing is binder up in the linkage
You can turn wheels smoothly when servo is not connected?

Live and learn, but I don't think I buggered all 3 servos.
But I might have damaged the servo saver instead.
However what confuses me is, that if servo saver was damaged, then I would be able to turn the wheels by hand when forcing them, as the servo horn would just slip. But it does not.

Do you use a rc stand when working in your kits?

 

[gandalfnz]

You should be able to turn the wheels by hand. If you can't I would say the servo is locked up or fried.. the wheels don't turn at all when you try to turn them by hand.
And you checked to make sure nothing is binder up in the linkage
You can turn wheels smoothly when servo is not connected?

Do you use a rc stand when working in your kits?

I cannot turn the wheels by hand, I am scared I will brake something.
I thought this is because servo is metal gear and quite strong?
Am I wrong here?

Dont have an RC stand, not yet at least.

The reason why you are getting 6v on your batt pack is because yours is a 5 cell. Mine is 4.

 

[STONER RC]

I cannot turn the wheels by hand, I am scared I will brake something.
I thought this is because servo is metal gear and quite strong?
Am I wrong here?

Dont have an RC stand, not yet at least.

The reason why you are getting 6v on your batt pack is because yours is a 5 cell. Mine is 4.

Oh man you don't even have enough power going to your servos bud. Thought you said you had a 6v pack. That's also a reason why. Your haven issues. That servo needs 5v minimal I believe I could be wrong though. What do the specs say on that servo. Most servos run on 6v to 8.4v. So you have a 4v pack your packs dead after a min or so.

And doesn't matter what the gears are. I would hope to think your stronger then the servo. Shot I turn my Xmaxx by hand. Somethings no rite there bud.. no matter what servo you should definitely be able to turn wheels by hand

 

[gandalfnz]

Oh man you don't even have enough power going to your servos bud. Thought you said you had a 6v pack. That's also a reason why. Your haven issues. That servo needs 5v minimal I believe I could be wrong though. What do the specs say on that servo. Most servos run on 6v to 8.4v. So you have a 4v pack your packs dead after a min or so.

And doesn't matter what the gears are. I would hope to think your stronger then the servo. Shot I turn my Xmaxx by hand. Somethings no rite there bud.. no matter what servo you should definitely be able to turn wheels by hand

Hoping that you are correct, I attached a 2s lipo to the car today and tested again.
Voltage is close to 8 on it.

Servo centering is a bit better, and no wobble/swirling at low speed.
As soon as the car starts going faster, it starts dancing again, its like fish tailing at speed, and front wheels at that.

Also, yes I can turn the wheels (steering) left and right with a bit more force, no problems.

 

[STONER RC]

Hoping that you are correct, I attached a 2s lipo to the car today and tested again.
Voltage is close to 8 on it.

Servo centering is a bit better, and no wobble/swirling at low speed.
As soon as the car starts going faster, it starts dancing again, its like fish tailing at speed, and front wheels at that.

Also, yes I can turn the wheels (steering) left and right with a bit more force, no problems.

Morning and your sure all the linkage on the front end are tight to where they should be? And it wobbles at high speed. Is that a stick engine your running? Or a mod? You checked your arms hubs knuckles? All is good with them.

Hoping that you are correct, I attached a 2s lipo to the car today and tested again.
Voltage is close to 8 on it.

Servo centering is a bit better, and no wobble/swirling at low speed.
As soon as the car starts going faster, it starts dancing again, its like fish tailing at speed, and front wheels at that.

Also, yes I can turn the wheels (steering) left and right with a bit more force, no problems.

Just looking over your pic. I'm wondering if your front end is lifting off the ground at higher speeds. Have you tried putting extra weight over the front to help hold wheels on the ground..1

 

[gandalfnz]

Morning and your sure all the linkage on the front end are tight to where they should be? And it wobbles at high speed. Is that a stick engine your running? Or a mod? You checked your arms hubs knuckles? All is good with them.

Just looking over your pic. I'm wondering if your front end is lifting off the ground at higher speeds. Have you tried putting extra weight over the front to help hold wheels on the ground..1

Yes, as far as I can tell, linkage is quite tight, barely any slop at all. Its a stock VX18 HSP engine.
I have inspected everything after the crash, maybe I should give one more once over. There was nothing bent that I could see.
The only thing I have swapped over maybe was the dogbones, I didn't pay attention, but they are both the same, left and right I mean.

As far as lifting off the ground, that's a good guess, but hard for me to tell, the car is actually quite heavy for being so small (1/12), and adding metal gear servos added more weight to it. From what can see, they are not off the ground at high speed.

 

[STONER RC]

Yes, as far as I can tell, linkage is quite tight, barely any slop at all. Its a stock VX18 HSP engine.
I have inspected everything after the crash, maybe I should give one more once over. There was nothing bent that I could see.
The only thing I have swapped over maybe was the dogbones, I didn't pay attention, but they are both the same, left and right I mean.

As far as lifting off the ground, that's a good guess, but hard for me to tell, the car is actually quite heavy for being so small (1/12), and adding metal gear servos added more weight to it. From what can see, they are not off the ground at high speed.

Did you check the chassis make sure no bends. And as far as some sort of stand. I use coffee cans. They work the best. Haha anything to keep the wheels off the ground. I also store all my kits on them as well. So don't get flat spots in my tires. The metal servo still only weighs oz. Not lbs. You would be surprised what air will do the the front end of a road Rc ripping down the road. This is very puzzling

 

[rcnoob90]

No Traxxas in my garage ,I have Ofna's ,Team Associated ,Mugen an Kyosho!..
My opinion ,just can't stomach them from what they done to other companies as they
are still threatening them!

Is there any ofna buggies you got? I'm new to rcs and just got a few ofna buggie rollers I'm tryna rebuild curious for i may get a few pics for rebuild ideas?

Can someone please tell me, without creating a separate thread...

Is this HPI RS4 or its a clone?

Thanks

View attachment 142296

I have one of those its redcat tho

 

[cbaker65]

Is there any ofna buggies you got? I'm new to rcs and just got a few ofna buggie rollers I'm tryna rebuild curious for i may get a few pics for rebuild ideas?

I have one of those its redcat tho

No ,I gave mine away over 10 years ago ,they were a good brand an was always easy to fix ,Ofna made a ton & a half
of awesome spare parts ,I do have some brand new front lower A-arms in a pkg still ,not sure if they are pillow ball hubs
or the other as Ofna produced both types Ofna is now Hobao so some parts maybe the same from years before!

I run a Hobao Hyper 21 engine in my Kyosho buggy an love it ,I bought it because I knew that I wouldnt be disappointed
with it because of the reliability of the Ofna Hyper 21 engines ,they are a great budget engine!

Hope this helps ,so Ofna is Hobao an a Hong Nor product!..

 

[Kevinb]

Hi Guys

I have been trying to identify this and so far have had no success.

Is this HPI RS4, or a knock off of some sort.

Got it fairly cheap, and wanted to rebuild it and get it going.

Cheers

Very cool

 

[gandalfnz]

An update to a very old thread.
This Mini I have sold long ago, the next owner was thrilled to obtain such a unique nitro car.

I have since then purchased original "the one" I had always wanted in my collection.
Due to its price and rarity, it was all about the waiting for a good deal game!

Snapped this bad boy, brand new in box, the body was not even painted when I got it.
Its a Tamiya TG10 MK1 Nitro Mini Cooper kit.

Anyway, enjoy the vid.