I bought a used HPI nitro mt last week. Fired up briefly before purchase. Now I can't get it started. My pull start also broke! I bought some new glow plugs because I thought that was it but still nothing. I am pissed. I hope I didnt get ripped off. Any suggestions or does anyone live near me to help, or should I take it to a hobby shop. I live in Lakewood, Oh. Thanks!
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Used HPI Nitro MT not running
- Thread starter otter57
- Start date
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Is this your first RC?
What are you using for a heater? Is it a MT2 or Nitro MT? The older MT came with a single needle carb that wasn't great.
What are you using for a heater? Is it a MT2 or Nitro MT? The older MT came with a single needle carb that wasn't great.
Don't use generic batteries. Use duracell or energizer. I'd suggest getting a rechargeable heater as alkalines don't hold up for very long with the high current draw. The coil should get fairly red/orange when in the heater.
Do you know how to prime the engine? To get an engine primed, you have to get the fuel line filled up to the carb. Easiest is to take the line off the pipe and gently blow into it as you watch the fuel go to the carb. Once it reaches the carb, stop or you will flood it and will have to take the plug out, turn it upside down and pull the starter a few times to clear it.
Once primed, put the heater on the plug and let it warm up for about 5 seconds, then hold the throttle on your transmitter at about 1/4-1/2 throttle and try to start it. Once it starts, you can let off the throttle and remove the heater.
I've seen a lot of newer people not apply throttle when starting, which in some cases, will start it, but it tends to require a lot more pulling than if you apply throttle while pulling the starter.
Do you know how to prime the engine? To get an engine primed, you have to get the fuel line filled up to the carb. Easiest is to take the line off the pipe and gently blow into it as you watch the fuel go to the carb. Once it reaches the carb, stop or you will flood it and will have to take the plug out, turn it upside down and pull the starter a few times to clear it.
Once primed, put the heater on the plug and let it warm up for about 5 seconds, then hold the throttle on your transmitter at about 1/4-1/2 throttle and try to start it. Once it starts, you can let off the throttle and remove the heater.
I've seen a lot of newer people not apply throttle when starting, which in some cases, will start it, but it tends to require a lot more pulling than if you apply throttle while pulling the starter.
No, they get hot and the coil turns orange. Left on the heater long enough, the entire plug gets hot, but all your looking for is an orange coil.
Stock mt has a primer on top of the tank. Press it until fuel reaches Carb or put your finger over the exhaust and pull the starter till fuel moves up. Easiest way to prime using the finger over the pipe method...
Try another plug. Just because it glows with an applied voltage does mean it is good.
Look up the engine specs and set the needles to factory setting, if it runs, you then need to tune it using the steps found in a sticky thread on this forum.
If it still won't fire you will need to check for air leaks. Its entirely possible it suddenly has a leak. Google or search forums here on how to do this.
Keep us posted....
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---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------
Btw if trying the two methods of priming do not work...if the fuel doesn't move...try opening the idle screw just a tad, this has worked for me a few times. If it still doesn't move it has a leak or the engine has no compression as compression is what sucks up the fuel when you prime it...
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
Try another plug. Just because it glows with an applied voltage does mean it is good.
Look up the engine specs and set the needles to factory setting, if it runs, you then need to tune it using the steps found in a sticky thread on this forum.
If it still won't fire you will need to check for air leaks. Its entirely possible it suddenly has a leak. Google or search forums here on how to do this.
Keep us posted....
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 12:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------
Btw if trying the two methods of priming do not work...if the fuel doesn't move...try opening the idle screw just a tad, this has worked for me a few times. If it still doesn't move it has a leak or the engine has no compression as compression is what sucks up the fuel when you prime it...
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
- Thread starter
- #9
So I tried starting my nitro today. After several tries it zipped for 2 seconds. Died and wouldnt start again. Then the pull start broke. So I tried starting it with my dewalt drill and nothing. Are these nitro trucks really that difficult? The engine primes easily. The glow plug is orange and the engine seems to have compression. I am beyond frustrated and my wife is pissed at me for buying this.
As I said above just because the plug glows does NOT mean its good. Sounds like a bad plug as explained above...
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 12:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 PM ----------
Just follow the steps and you should find the answer.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
---------- Post added at 12:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 PM ----------
Just follow the steps and you should find the answer.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
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This is the point where I'd try another igniter.
Didn't know that. Ignitor makes it glow I thought?
Turn the flywheel and you should feel it "pinch" or get almost stuck when the piston is at top dead center, if you turn it and don't feel a point of resistance while turning it could be a bad piston or sleeve.
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
Turn the flywheel and you should feel it "pinch" or get almost stuck when the piston is at top dead center, if you turn it and don't feel a point of resistance while turning it could be a bad piston or sleeve.
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- Thread starter
- #14
So since I broke my pull starter I tried to find a new pull start. Instead I found a Sullivan tiger drive. It was actually less than the pull start. Anybody ever use one of these? Hope I made the right choice.
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Tiger drives are used by quite a few.
jchampion99
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how old is your fuel? if it is old i would try some new fuel i had some that went bad on me and mine would start for a second and die. it was a pain in the but to get it to run and if it did it would only be for a second or 2
- Thread starter
- #17
So I took everyones advice that posted. New plug. New fuel. Reset carb. Guess what fired up! Next step for me is to learn to adjust the carb. It seemed to run high rpms, and if I applied the brake it stalled. So I would start it and try to tune it a little. Then not realizing I was out of fuel and trying to start it I blew apart the one way bearing. BALLS!!!!
andydrew39219
RCTalk Talkaholic
If it stalled when you applied the brake that means you have to adjust the idle screw or throttle linkage. I had that issue with my nitro stampede and it was because I turned the idle screw too low, when I would give it throttle and let go, the carb would not return all the way so it would still run, but when I pressed the brake it closed the carb too much and killed the engine.
What I did was with the engine not running, take the air filter off the carb and play around with the transmitter throttle and brake and see what your problem is. I'm betting it is a quick idle screw or throttle linkage adjustment.
Also, if/when you adjust the idle screw you are supposed to be holding the brake all the way in.
jchampion99
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good to hear you got it running atleast
