i bought a used old nitro today

[rc dump]

i'll pull it apart and put it back together and have it burning nitro again.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Be sure to save that old air filter!

I love a good resto project and I love nitro! Def watching this one!!!

Good luck!

 

[ohsnap]

Be sure to save that old air filter!

Too funny, I literally laughed at that.

What is it?
I like the body.
It looks to be in decent shape - at least except for the pull-start.

 

[easy rider]

That’s a nice buggy. What kind is it? I’m thinking after I finish up my current nitro projects I’d like to buy/build a 4x4 buggy.

 

[rc dump]

Be sure to save that old air filter!

bro i'm glad it came with that crappy yellow sponge filter as some have none...i'll probably put a slightly larger filter on as this one is more suited for small block engines.

What is it?
I like the body.
It looks to be in decent shape - at least except for the pull-start.

it was sold by GV models when they were in business they did a cage version as well i don't have one maybe one day.

looking now for a larger filter i have some others as well.

i removed the battery some people just don't understand battery maintenance.

i haven't turned the engine yet as it's gummed/seized it might still have good compression at least there is oil there.

 

[rc dump]

I got bad news the front of the chassis has cracked a piece off it from the previous owners crash i didn't see it to now and so i got to put this build on hold as it really needs a new chassis.

 

[rc dump]

Good news here is a pic of the engine ready for nitro fuel to turn it over for the first time i also used the heat gun and it was tight with the first turn but loosen up and the old oil flushed out and then i put the glow plug in and it has excellent high compression and crank bearing are good as well it should run fine.
i usually remove the carb first and the needles to clean but this carb is on super tight and forcing it could crack it so i'm leaving it on and just removing the needles.
i can fix the front broken chassis i will put up a pic later and convert it to 2WD by removing the front diff and drive shafts and put 1 million silicone fluid in the centre diff to lock it.

 

[rc dump]

the chassis cracked off between the front diff case mount i got alloy sheet to make a adapter plate.

 

[rc dump]

the front chassis will look Frankenstein when it's finished.

 

[fstnd]

I like the idea of blocking the center diff anyway but why remove FWD once you got the chassis fixed?

 

[rc dump]

I like the idea of blocking the center diff anyway but why remove FWD once you got the chassis fixed?

funny story...so the seller advertised the rc for 80 and mentioned in his ad that the chassis is good and when i met him i didn't even look at the rc i just had a quick glance as we were chatting and i believe seller was clueless about the rc and he didn't plan to be deceptive...anyway 80 is a good deal.
when i checked it at home the front wheel hexes wouldn't turn as the diff seem locked from maybe some crash damage caused it but i have removed the whole front assembly and it turns so maybe it'd ok and can use it as 4WD.

the engine is ready i removed the cooling head and checked the head button and piston/liner it all looks near new and the clutch is good as well.

i got few spare engines including a new one.

 

[fstnd]

Great to hear, a 4WD meant chassis runs pretty unhandleable with only RWD... especially with that engine..
Three Force .32's!! Those are a BEAST! I have one in a HPI savage and it pops wheelies all day

 

[ONeillsRCShop2025]

Too funny, I literally laughed at that.

What is it?
I like the body.
It looks to be in decent shape - at least except for the pull-start.

Electric starts are nice until all of your battery operated stuff dies lol, then you’ll miss pull starters

 

[ohsnap]

Electric starts are nice until all of your battery operated stuff dies lol, then you’ll miss pull starters

A pull-starter that does not retract (as in the OP's 3rd photo) is more useless.
My "except for the pull-start" comment was an observation of that as opposed to an opinion of Pull vs Roto.
Although you are accurate to note my fondness of the Roto...

In a Roto-start, you can fast charge a battery or replace it with a charged spare one.
I also always pack a spare Roto-start too.

 

[rc dump]

Electric starts are nice until all of your battery operated stuff dies lol, then you’ll miss pull starters

not all pull starts were made equal, i have received a few used Force engine pull starters and they were all loose and needed repairing like this one and i did open this pull start apart because the rope wheel had disconnected from the inner spring but putting these force engine pull starts back with connecting the rope wheel to the spring is a nightmare and i have thrown this one out after a bunch of tries, i have put back together a HPI pull starter that was easy and that is a better pull starter.

i do prefer roto start and i got my batts as well.

i got the front and center diffs apart and they are in really good condition and will replace the grease with some thicker silicone fluid.

 

[CertifiedMike]

After electric and pull starts fail, I have resorted to kick-starting... The RC never starts but I always feel better after giving the unrunner a good boot!

 

[rc dump]

After electric and pull starts fail, I have resorted to kick-starting

it's better to know why it failed rather than not knowing so it can be fixed or replaced...kicking it means you are straight up peeved off and i do try to avoid doing that.

 

[rc dump]

edit: mistakes have been made i'll get back to this later.

 

[RippingLegos]

This is a great thread M8, getting back into Nitro myself and it's another level.

 

[rc dump]

i fixed the mistakes and will attempt to fix the chassis tomorrow i will put some pics then.