Unknown car problem

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Update, and it's not good.
I had the TPS replaced today at a cost of another $140. The same problem remained, but the idle went to 2 grand. Not good for a transmission or the brakes, so knowing I would have to eat the new sensor, I told him to put the old one back.
Now it stalls at ANY speed as soon as I hit the throttle. It stalled 6 or 7 times just trying to back into my parking spot.

I'm really pissed off now, and the current problem makes the car unsafe at any speed.

Any other suggestions?
 
Anybody check the fuel injectors? Try running a full bottle of STP injector cleaner to a half tank of premium gas. Worst that can happen is you'll be out a few bucks.
 
The sensor is made by Wells, part # TPS255.
I'll also try the tip on cleaning the injectors, even though the engine has no miss.

PartImage.aspx
 
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what year is your car? an ebay search for that tps says its for the following. no tps is exactly the same so when you swap it out you need to disconnect your battery for 10-15 minutes and reconnect and drive around for a little while with a mix of highway and street driving for the computer to adjust.
 
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It's a '93 Thunderbird LX, 5.0 HO engine.
Interesting info about disconnecting the battery. He didn't mention that. Maybe that's why the new one screwed up, and replacing it with the old one screwed it up even more.

That's EXCELLENT information, flm_savage. Thank you VERY much for that.
 
what year is your car? an ebay search for that tps says its for the following. no tps is exactly the same so when you swap it out you need to disconnect your battery for 10-15 minutes and reconnect and drive around for a little while with a mix of highway and street driving for the computer to adjust.

100% spot-on info here. Any time you replace an engine management part you really should disconnect the battery for 15-30 minutes and let the computer "reset' itself. Hell, even when you replace a battery you will notice that a modern car or truck will run like crap for a few minutes afterward while the parameters are re-learned.
 
I will definitely do that. I also did some research on my own and found out how to test the resistance in different throttle positions, as well as the voltage being fed out of it to determine that it's working properly and if it is making a complete circuit.
Every article I read pointed out all the same symptoms I've been having.
 
try running marvel mystery oil in the gas, it will clean the injectors, but not right away, itll take 3-4 weeks. put 4 oz for 10 gal of gas. been useing it for decades. it will make it start better, cause it seals the rings. if you get the one jug move it to a gas can as the org plastic jug will fail in the winter. i use it for after run oil
 
My dad swears by Marvel Mystery oil. He first used it in his race cars in the 60's and 70's. Then used in in his Detroit powered Kenworth. 2,000,000 miles out of that engine and never replaced a single fuel injector. Not saying that is gonna fix Ralph's problem, but the stuff does work!
 
be carefull regular mmo is not for diesels. they have a diesel product.
 
I think I would be in the driveway with a bfh and a six pack by know. Seafoam also has some great products. Good luck.
 
I've always used Lucas in the past.
This is an electronic problem, not a problem that chemicals can solve.
If it rains again today, I'll be looking for that BFH.
 
I've always used Lucas in the past.
This is an electronic problem, not a problem that chemicals can solve.
If it rains again today, I'll be looking for that BFH.

have you had the IACV looked at??!?!
 

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