trying my first upgrade

[majin]

I've never dine this, i only halfway know what I'm doing. this should be a learning experience.
i bought my son a banggood rc truck

i tookit for a few laps in the street then decided (like a dumb) hey lets put the 3 s battery in it!, well its only rated for 2s so i burnt it up.
i read a bit and watched a bit and decided i must have burnt up the esc. allegedly it wouldnt have burnt out the motor itself as it wasn't enough juice for that.
the wheels still turn it just wont accelerate or reverse.
so i go to the website and get the most info I'm able to about the truck

Basic information	Brand:JJRC Models:Q130 B brushless Model:1/14 Speed:70km/h	Power system	35A ESC and receiver are 2 in 1 Motor:2840 4000kv brushless Servo:3 Line LED headlights, LED roof lights, LED tail lights
Transmitter	Frequency:2.4 GHZ Battery: 3XAA battery(not included)	Battery:	7.4V 1500mAH 15C Li battert (T plug)
others	Charge time:180-210min Using time:15-18 min Control distance:120m Function:forward,backward,left,right Proportional controlroportional control It adopts plant differential.	Dimension	Size:34.5*20.5*14.8 CM Transmitter size:13*7.5*21 CM Wheelbase:18.8 cm Axle base:18.5cm Tire:8.5cm Package size:57.5*36.5*53.5 CM Car weight:1160g Package weight::1900g

i ordered an amazon esc motor combo is my first attempt I'm not trying to learn on expensive things

GoolRC 2838 4500KV 4P Sensorless Brushless Motor & 35A Brushless ESC Electronic Speed Controller for 1/14 1/16 1/18 RC Car​

KV(RPM/Volt): 4500KV
Max current: 50A
Max watts: 600W
Max voltage: <12V
IO: 1.8A
Rotor poles: 4
Resistance: 0.0285
Diameter: 28mm
Length: 38mm
Shaft length: 15mm
Shaft diameter: 3.175mm
Weight: 90g
Sensored: No

Features of ESC:
Highest quality components to ensure high efficiency operation
Excellent start-up, acceleration and linearity features
Plenty of programmable items, suitable for various of chassis's, tires and racing tracks
Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection / Over-heat protection / Throttle signal loss protection
Internal timing can be changed easily to make the ESC suitable for various of motors

Specifications of ESC:
Constant current: 35A
Burst current: 120A (10S)
Power supply: 2-3S LiPo battery / 4-6S NiMh battery
BEC: linear mode switch 5V 2A

i didnt read untill much later that the reciever and esc are a combo factory. i didnt order a reciever oof.
on the 16th I'm expecting a delivery of a lot of different items and i swapped out a few and am ordering a

DUMBORC-X6 2.4Ghz 6 Channel RC Transmitter with Receiver Low Power Alarm and Out of Control Protection RC Radio Controller for Remote Car/Boat/Tank Mixed Mode Remote Controller (Without GYRO)…​

I've taken it apart

the motors are about the same size
i keep running into little issues but i roll with em
i got to looking closer and i think the drive shaft of the stock motor is larger than the new motor so now we get to learn about pinion gears. i want to start but am having to wait on the mail to go any further,
any help and advice will be SO appreciated as I'm a complete noob at this, i dont know what I'm doing and I'm learning as i go.
end goal iws to learn enough to build my own custom rc maybe i dunno i just know 1k for an rc car is out of my league but if i build it maybe its cheaper. hell my luck ittl be waaaaay more expensive. but it would be mine so i would love it and snuggle it in mud and dirt.

 

[Tunedfrog]

Well I guess now you know for sure what it will handle.

I bought my Arrma typhon Mega for this very reason. I wanted to see just how far I could go until it explodes.
Not far. but she is completely modded as far I could go with it. Runs great but I prefer monster trucks and my 1/5 scale Baja's.

 

[tntpoof]

Good luck.. I bought this to G Fast my best is 175 mph.. after adding a upgrade I never thought about Dihedrals..
its a 1/6 scale on 4 cells...

 

[majin]

i had to google Dihedrals lol

 

[tntpoof]

Heres were I got it from @ 2 am .
https://aussieinvader.com/

 

[majin]

need to go to lowes to grab a few screws for the motor mount, the factory screws were too small, i need m2.5
used some layered double sided tape to stick the reciever onto the servo. I'm pretty stoked. i only have like 1 or 2 extra screws at this point even !!!
(amazed beyond comprehension that this is working)


added as edit.l while i had it apart i noticed i could raise or lower my body pin mounts, thats kinda neat. i tubbed it out, raising rear to max and lowering the front, it looks kinda mean lol ( keeping in mind its not meant for speed per se, more to let my son learn to drive before with it as it has speed control

 

[WickedFog]

need to go to lowes to grab a few screws for the motor mount, the factory screws were too small, i need m2.5
used some layered double sided tape to stick the reciever onto the servo. I'm pretty stoked. i only have like 1 or 2 extra screws at this point even !!!
(amazed beyond comprehension that this is working)


added as edit.l while i had it apart i noticed i could raise or lower my body pin mounts, thats kinda neat. i tubbed it out, raising rear to max and lowering the front, it looks kinda mean lol ( keeping in mind its not meant for speed per se, more to let my son learn to drive before with it as it has speed control

Congrats!
Did you calibrate the ESC and set the servo endpoints?

It's all downhill from here

 

[9x19]

Great job!

 

[majin]

Congrats!
Did you calibrate the ESC and set the servo endpoints?

It's all downhill from here

whats that..... so no no i did not, youtube here we come

ok its now been calibrated yes lol

 

[WickedFog]

whats that..... so no no i did not, youtube here we come

ok its now been calibrated yes lol

Look in the Dumbo Manual for how to set endpoints. Or videos of course. Basically, you want the servo to turn the full travel allowed by the steering linkage without putting it in a bind. So adjust so the linkage just gets tight, then back off til you feel play in the linkage and that's your endpoint. Otherwise every time you turn your steering you are trying to burn up your servo because it is trying to turn your steering linkage beyond its mechanical limits.

 

[Doom!]

Your on the road to successful rc hobby. Maintenance is a must, and some experimenting can be quite rewarding. Soon you'll have a box of extra bits and peices enough to start building things from scratch.

 

[majin]

Got issues but it's ripping. Back to the bench

 

[majin]

ttrying to do a little work, figure out why it wont go like its supposed too then Pip one of he strays that adopted us decided i had better things to do.....
it goes, fast. but wrong.
when i give it gas in air is almost immediate response and it tries to fly, put it on the ground and it will jerk a little back and forth trying to go then it will take off , but when starting its hitchy? ill make a video, videos explain way better than i can i dont know how to explain myself well in this space yet ...
it makes an uncomfortale grinding noise. when i pull trigger it sits still. when i ease into the trigger she goes. could that be the reciever? I've calibrated the esc and reciever a few times per youtube. sounds like its grinding gears, like something is missing teeth? gonna take it apart fully monday while my sons in school, any ideas to help that process or narrowing down where to start would be appreciated

is that what cogging is? am i cogging?

 

[Doom!]

Love hobby cats, they need to supervise and make sure your doing it right.

Yeah, sounds like you need to change the gears size. I'm not the greatest at the mechanical bits, but someone will chime in.

 

[DavidB1126]

Love hobby cats, they need to supervise and make sure your doing it right.

My cousin's dog when we went for a walk.

At the old old hobby shop and track, my uncle's friends dog, Max, he would be there every day with him. Such a good dog. But he sadly passed away I think last year

 

[WickedFog]

Could be a combination of the motor cogging. Non-sensored motors/esc's can do this. Especially cheap ones. And maybe it is a tooth or two too high on the pinion, amplifying the problem, which could be why when off the ground, with no load, it allows it to spin more freely.

Love black kitties!

 

[majin]

Could be a combination of the motor cogging. Non-sensored motors/esc's can do this. Especially cheap ones. And maybe it is a tooth or two too high on the pinion, amplifying the problem, which could be why when off the ground, with no load, it allows it to spin more freely.

Love black kitties!

it IS ancheapo non sensored setup yea, the pinion is the factory pinion so i ASSUMED it was right, BUT it made that grinding sound BEFORE i broke it, so i was thinking immediately that something was off,
how would i check the teeth? do i just count em? and then compare that copunt to the pinion?

 

[WickedFog]

Yeah, you can just mark a tooth with a marker, and rotate it to count the teeth.

It could also be a gear problem, but you will always hear what sounds like a little grinding noise, especially at low speeds.

Listen to the Kraton in the air when the throttle is winding down, you'll hear it.

 

[majin]

yeah is a similar sound, but mines doing it when on the ground when its in the air like that the sound is smooth, just the typical winding out sound that my other rc makes. this one sounds like actual grinding, it could ALSO be me just wanting super badly to tinker with it and I'm imagining an issue thats not an issue, i love this so far lol

 

[WickedFog]

yeah is a similar sound, but mines doing it when on the ground when its in the air like that the sound is smooth, just the typical winding out sound that my other rc makes. this one sounds like actual grinding, it could ALSO be me just wanting super badly to tinker with it and I'm imagining an issue thats not an issue, i love this so far lol

Never hurts to tear into an RC to give things a look. You may find some shrapnel bouncing around in a diff case or diff housing. Good idea to check the diffs for grease too. RTR RC's notoriously come with very little grease in the diffs and such.