This TEKNO ET410.2 kit has been an exercise in frustration and anger management.

[BarnFabRC]

And I’m only at bag F!

Everyone swoons about how great the instructions are and I just don’t see it. Every step of the way I’ve had to go back and double check to make sure I’ve got it right. Also they don’t mark stuff L & R. Like knuckles. I had to compare with a magnifying glass to the tiny little picture to figure out which was which. Just put a little L or R in the mold!

And the biggest one so far. I actually got up from the table and walked away because of this…The little marks in the turnbuckles that tell you which side is left hand thread. BACKWARDS. I sat there for ten minutes fighting these things till I figured I need power tools. Got my drill. Nothing. Wouldn’t catch a thread. Finally I was like, “maybe they’re marked wrong.” Turned the drill to reverse and bingo! It goes right in . Now I don’t know if I hope they’re all that way or if it’s just that one. I might just bite the bullet and get some Lundsfords or Klinik Ti ones and save myself the aggravation every time I need to make an adjustment from now on. I’ve been working on things with threaded adjusters like that for 30 years and never seen the right hand threads marked with the groove. That’s just stupid.

I really hope this thing drives better than it builds, because it’ll be up for sale real quick if it doesn’t.

Maybe I’ll get back to it after dinner maybe not.

 

[DavidB1126]

Building up a tekno now! Nice.

I really hope this thing drives better than it builds, because it’ll be up for sale real quick if it doesn’t.

Ill happily take it from you

Or I was thinking about just getting a B74 or B64 roller from someone locally or on eBay and convert it to a truggy. So I could have a more track basher car, and spare parts for my main race buggy if needed. Or a XB4 (essentially XT4) or 22x4 (TLR doesn't have a 4wd mini truggy tho so idk how that would work)

 

[luke66]

frustration, no problem. I'll take it from here.
@DavidB1126 doesn't need it. he's got that TT-02.

 

[DavidB1126]

@DavidB1126 doesn't need it. he's got that TT-02.

Not yet.
Also, idk if I'm gonna like onroad so I might sell it to someone else after that. I have no clue yet
I should get it first if he doesn't like it. I'm located closer to him than you. Lol

 

[luke66]

And I’m only at bag F!

Everyone swoons about how great the instructions are and I just don’t see it. Every step of the way I’ve had to go back and double check to make sure I’ve got it right. Also they don’t mark stuff L & R. Like knuckles. I had to compare with a magnifying glass to the tiny little picture to figure out which was which. Just put a little L or R in the mold!

And the biggest one so far. I actually got up from the table and walked away because of this…The little marks in the turnbuckles that tell you which side is left hand thread. BACKWARDS. I sat there for ten minutes fighting these things till I figured I need power tools. Got my drill. Nothing. Wouldn’t catch a thread. Finally I was like, “maybe they’re marked wrong.” Turned the drill to reverse and bingo! It goes right in . Now I don’t know if I hope they’re all that way or if it’s just that one. I might just bite the bullet and get some Lundsfords or Klinik Ti ones and save myself the aggravation every time I need to make an adjustment from now on. I’ve been working on things with threaded adjusters like that for 30 years and never seen the right hand threads marked with the groove. That’s just stupid.

I really hope this thing drives better than it builds, because it’ll be up for sale real quick if it doesn’t.

Maybe I’ll get back to it after dinner maybe not.

Hopefully its bulletproof after you're done. then you won't have to mess with it.

 

[DavidB1126]

But other than talking about getting rid of cars and getting good deals on it, i am happy to see the outcome of this build. Where you plan to race it? Does the factory have a mini truggy class? Gaithersburg track does mini truggy, mod class. But she calls it 4WD stadium truck. Same thing essentially. Good thing about mini truggy and 1/10 stadium truck is wheels and tires are the same. So If I do get a mini truggy. Tires from my rustler are a direct fit (well size, but offset, probably not)

Hopefully its bulletproof after you're done. then you won't have to mess with it.

Teknos should be bullet proof. Tank-no

 

[luke66]

in theory.....

 

[DavidB1126]

In my conclusion, my hypothesis should be correct.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Or I was thinking about just getting a B74 or B64 roller from someone locally or on eBay and convert it to a truggy. So I could have a more track basher car, and spare parts for my main race buggy if needed. Or a XB4 (essentially XT4) or 22x4 (TLR doesn't have a 4wd mini truggy tho so idk how that would work)

I was first considering converting the B74.1 to a T74.1 there is a company out there making the proper arms and shock towers but then I said nah it’ll be easier to build a fresh kit. I got it with that coupon I posted the other day. I used the coupon and my store credit together I got some other stuff too. Some tires an extra set of arms for everything and extra set of pins for everything. Using dude math if I applied the total cart discount just to the kit and paid full price for the other stuff I only paid $290 for the kit. I already have a 6.5 turn and a castle esc to go in it. And I still need a servo but that can wait I won’t be running it until at the earliest late march.


I am going to finish the build. But if it doesn’t spark joy immediately when I get it on track, you’ll be the first to know when the roller gets put up for sale. it’s gonna have my paint job on it though

Hopefully its bulletproof after you're done. then you won't have to mess with it.

True story. That’s one of the main reasons I swayed over there into Tekno land. The other is I really love the body it comes with.

 

[9x19]

And I’m only at bag F!

Everyone swoons about how great the instructions are and I just don’t see it. Every step of the way I’ve had to go back and double check to make sure I’ve got it right. Also they don’t mark stuff L & R. Like knuckles. I had to compare with a magnifying glass to the tiny little picture to figure out which was which. Just put a little L or R in the mold!

And the biggest one so far. I actually got up from the table and walked away because of this…The little marks in the turnbuckles that tell you which side is left hand thread. BACKWARDS. I sat there for ten minutes fighting these things till I figured I need power tools. Got my drill. Nothing. Wouldn’t catch a thread. Finally I was like, “maybe they’re marked wrong.” Turned the drill to reverse and bingo! It goes right in . Now I don’t know if I hope they’re all that way or if it’s just that one. I might just bite the bullet and get some Lundsfords or Klinik Ti ones and save myself the aggravation every time I need to make an adjustment from now on. I’ve been working on things with threaded adjusters like that for 30 years and never seen the right hand threads marked with the groove. That’s just stupid.

I really hope this thing drives better than it builds, because it’ll be up for sale real quick if it doesn’t.

Maybe I’ll get back to it after dinner maybe not.

The links on all three of my Tekno models are that way... just their way to be different?

I downloaded the manual and it makes it easier to just blow up the pictures if I need to.

Don't remember having an issue figuring out L or R side parts... the front carriers and steering blocks were labeled with L and R.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

[Saladshooter]

I lucked out and found an MT410 unused but already built..... so I haven't experienced all the pain but I have torn down and rebuilt sections of it using the book. I can't say the manual & diagrams are any worse than my Arrmas but it does get frustrating.

 

[Doom!]

Sucks when something that should be enjoyable becomes aggravating. sometimes you just need to walk away for a bit. You did the right thing.

 

[DavidB1126]

Sucks when something that should be enjoyable becomes aggravating. sometimes you just need to walk away for a bit. You did the right thing.

Just like my radio issues But half of it was my fault by going with cheap china radio brand.

 

[BarnFabRC]

The links on all three of my Tekno models are that way... just their way to be different?

I downloaded the manual and it makes it easier to just blow up the pictures if I need to.

Don't remember having an issue figuring out L or R side parts... the front carriers and steering blocks were labeled with L and R.

Good luck with the rest of the build.

It’s been industry standard since the Industrial Revolution to mark the left hand threads why in the world would they do it the opposite. It’s a smack in the face to every machinist ever. If they’re all that way I’m definitely replacing them because that is going to get under my skin every time I make a toe or camber adjustment.

I’m only at bag F so I haven’t seen much else of the kit yet but the rear hubs were the left vs right thing I struggled with. From the pic the only difference you can see is some slight shading that’s supposed to represent a radius on one side of the upper link mount. I imagine the front ones will be a lot easier to identify with the steering tabs and all. But still, all doubt would be removed if the just had an L or R molded in on the bottom somewhere. They put their T logo so it’s not a matter of not being able to do it.

That’s a good idea to use the PDF version. I will definitely bring my iPad to the bench next time I dig into it.

 

[Ramp addict]

I've built a lot of Teknos. Comparing bits of plastic to the pictures in the manual to see if they are pointing in the right direction is just part of the game. Take your time building your new ET and it will go much better.

 

[BarnFabRC]

I've built a lot of Teknos. Comparing bits of plastic to the pictures in the manual to see if they are pointing in the right direction is just part of the game. Take your time building your new ET and it will go much better.

I get it. Believe me I’m not rushing. I’ve been tinkering with this kit since last Thursday haha. Comparing to the book is not uncommon at all but the book is not actual photos it’s screenshots of 3D renderings that are also quite poorly lighted. If they used the actual 3D models it would be much easier to compare because all the transitions would be highlighted. Renderings are what you show a client before you’ve actually made a prototype. Models are what you look at when you’re doing anything technical. (I’m a machinist/programmer that works with 3d models 60hrs a week so I know what I’m talking about. Also why I was completely thrown by the incorrectly marked turnbuckles, those would go straight in the scrap bin and a meeting would be setup with the engineer who approved the design once it got traced back to him if it was in my shop)

All that being said this probably won’t be the last Tekno kit I get into. But at least now I know what kind of BS to look for when building. I was frustrated when I made the original post now I’m just disappointed. I may even email them if I get the chance to air my grievances.

 

[hood52]

I’ll finish building it for you, I like building the kits. And yes, all my turnbuckles are marked that way. Try to set them up so all the marks point to the same side of the car. It will make it easier to adjust down the road

 

[BarnFabRC]

I’ll finish building it for you, I like building the kits. And yes, all my turnbuckles are marked that way. Try to set them up so all the marks point to the same side of the car. It will make it easier to adjust down the road

Thanks haha. I’ll get it done. Once I order some different turnbuckles I’ll get back to it. That part is really what gets me.

 

[J’sCrawler]

Hmm never had troubles with the turnbuckles on my teknos……one end is a left handed thread right?
Like stated above just take your time, they make quality kits. It could easily be the funnest car you have once you drive it. I don’t have one but I want one!

 

[Lumikko]

LH threads should be the marked ones but I install them toward the left so any link will shorten by rotating the turnbuckle to the back and extend from forward rotation. I never even look at the exposed threads or markings.