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I used to go to one in Indy. They had everything from Thomas the Train to RC. I miss going there.
This one is similar. Legos, Gundam, trains, planes, boats, nitro, models, crafts, stuffed animals, etc, etc, I was really amazed. Walls of parts & electronics.
There is not many online sources left that don’t charge tax, that amounts to about an 8% discount in my neck of the woods.
$21 for 8 lock nuts? Holy cow dude. I would have shipped you 50 for that.
I know, I just wanted to see the difference. I bought some of the cheap or rather cheaper steel ones as well.
The difference is you bent over for those $20 ones
You got critters, do ya?
lolThe difference is you bent over for those $20 ones
Don't fall for buying fasteners for specific brand/model RC's. Buy in bulk. Even these are what I would consider a bit pricey, but for less, you have spares.
https://a.co/d/40DRWQP
Poison Ivy.
Aluminum is anodized. It is a coating that is like paint, but harder, and much thinner. It is applied electronically, similar to how chrome is applied. Some anodize (like hard anodize) will actually penetrate the aluminum surface, and is really durable. But those nuts are definately not hard anodize. It will wear and flake off and scratch just from putting tools on them.lol
I was sort of curios to see if the paint stays on the aluminum nuts any better than steel nuts.
Is there anything else different about them. compared to the steel nuts.
I thought they were very overpriced as well.
Aluminum is anodized. It is a coating that is like paint, but harder, and much thinner. It is applied electronically, similar to how chrome is applied. Some anodize (like hard anodize) will actually penetrate the aluminum surface, and is really durable. But those nuts are definately not hard anodize. It will wear and flake off and scratch just from putting tools on them.
Black oxide steel is basically a form of rust. It changes the outer layer of the steel to an oxidized layer. Much more durable all around.
If I were just going black wheel nuts, I would definitely use steel. Unless you're a racer where every tenth of a gram matters. The aluminum stuff is mostly for bling. Like if you want flashy red wheel nuts. Those you're only going to find in aluminum.
It's not so much which material though. It's just the price that I see a problem with. They are buying those nuts for pennies, and ripping off the folks that don't know better because they are for a "particular RC". That price is just ridiculous. I buy all my hardware in bulk. Much, much cheaper. And having spares comes in very handy.
A prime example. Green slime is sold in the RC world as a lube for shocks and such. It's like $10-$15 for a tiny blob that would barely fill a tablespoon. But in actuality - its simply rebranded Polymer 400 tractor grease (factual info here). It costs around $20 for a caulking gun sized tube of polymer 400.
Bottom line, don't buy hardware from RC companies unless you just don't care to throw money away. And if so, I will gladly send you the address to my trash can
When I buy blingy stuff, I search for the cheapest stuff that fits the need. Like the alumunum nuts... search M4, searated, black... they are all coming from the same place in Asia anyways, the cheapest. So I buy that way too.Aluminum is anodized. It is a coating that is like paint, but harder, and much thinner. It is applied electronically, similar to how chrome is applied. Some anodize (like hard anodize) will actually penetrate the aluminum surface, and is really durable. But those nuts are definately not hard anodize. It will wear and flake off and scratch just from putting tools on them.
Black oxide steel is basically a form of rust. It changes the outer layer of the steel to an oxidized layer. Much more durable all around.
If I were just going black wheel nuts, I would definitely use steel. Unless you're a racer where every tenth of a gram matters. The aluminum stuff is mostly for bling. Like if you want flashy red wheel nuts. Those you're only going to find in aluminum.
It's not so much which material though. It's just the price that I see a problem with. They are buying those nuts for pennies, and ripping off the folks that don't know better because they are for a "particular RC". That price is just ridiculous. I buy all my hardware in bulk. Much, much cheaper. And having spares comes in very handy.
A prime example. Green slime is sold in the RC world as a lube for shocks and such. It's like $10-$15 for a tiny blob that would barely fill a tablespoon. But in actuality - its simply rebranded Polymer 400 tractor grease (factual info here). It costs around $20 for a caulking gun sized tube of polymer 400.
Bottom line, don't buy hardware from RC companies unless you just don't care to throw money away. And if so, I will gladly send you the address to my trash can
I've never had one of those work past its first use. I end up dumping the product in a pump sprayer to finish using it.
One of their locations is my LHS. Great bunch of guys!
The thing with RC fasteners... the metric stuff - 99.999% of the time will all have the same thread coarsness. M3's will all be .4 pitch. M4's will all be .5 pitch. And M5's will all be .7. I am sure there is an RC out there that uses a finer or coarser pitch for some specialty assembly. Like on a nitro engine. But chassis assembly... they're all going to be the same standard pitch. So chances are, if you need an M3 screw and you buy an M3 screw, it's going to work.
Don't forget to buy the right side up version! Down under won't plug in to our fancy grid.
