Build Thread The most interesting Team Associated SC10 in the world

[Littlemotor]

You’ll be shocked (shocked!) to learn that this is the latest version of my over-engineered 3D printed LED power supply.
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[Spksh]

OK, this feels like we're getting somewhere. I tried real hard to convince myself to file down the countersunk washers, and I tried real hard to be satisfied with the buttonhead cap screw situation. Neither of those stuck.

So, let's print some brackets for my brackets, and (theoretically) increase the clamping force.

 

[Littlemotor]

OK, this feels like we're getting somewhere. I tried real hard to convince myself to file down the countersunk washers, and I tried real hard to be satisfied with the buttonhead cap screw situation. Neither of those stuck.

So, let's print some brackets for my brackets, and (theoretically) increase the clamping force.
View attachment 259593

You sir, are an absolute madman. Do continue. That is all.

 

[Spksh]

You sir, are an absolute madman. Do continue. That is all.

Until I discovered Tamiya Mini 4WD as a kid, I was making my own fireworks from live rounds. It is absolutely in the best interests of everyone that I continue building RC cars

 

[Spksh]

Print quality on the double-wide countersunk washers was OK, but not great. Decided to unbox the 0.2mm nozzle I've had sitting around for a year and... well, I think I need to reprint everything.

0.2mm on the left, 0.4mm on the right.

Super Macro Shame View(TM) shows that I need to work on the under-extrusion, though.

 

[Spksh]

Thread locked, buttoned up, what's next?

 

[Spksh]

Next is motor selection! Meet our candidates. I'm thinking the 17.5T for this truck, save the 13.5T for another project.

The well-used Castle gear is from another SC10.2. I don't think this kind of power in a 2WD vintage truck is legal in the state of California anymore

 

[Littlemotor]

“Super Macro Shame View”…

Those turned out KILLER. -and man; what a damned difference a couple tenths of a millimeter makes..

 

[Spksh]

“Super Macro Shame View”…

Everyone's like "Oh don't worry, no one's going to see it, only you will know." And I'm like, yes, exactly! I will know it's there!

Those turned out KILLER. -and man; what a damned difference a couple tenths of a millimeter makes..

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with this solve, for sure.

 

[Littlemotor]

Everyone's like "Oh don't worry, no one's going to see it, only you will know." And I'm like, yes, exactly! I will know it's there!


Thanks! I'm pretty happy with this solve, for sure.

I’m the EXACT same way.. -and on top of the “I’LL know it’s there!!”, I go and post several detailed photards, and “look what I did” commentary ON THE INTRAWEBZ….

 

[CertifiedMike]

I’m the EXACT same way.. -and on top of the “I’LL know it’s there!!”, I go and post several detailed photards, and “look what I did” commentary ON THE INTRAWEBZ….

Lol! When someone says only "You'll be the only one who will know its there.", what I hear is, "That will keep you awake at night for the next 3 years until you finally snap and fix that."

 

[Spksh]

My brand-new pre-cut fresh-off-the-boat-from-Taobao "TEAM ASCRACING" SC10 body (with chassis detail stickers). Lexan is a nice heavy weight, very happy with this.

 

[Spksh]

Things that spin. Manual recommends 28T pinion and 75T spur for a 17.5T brushless setup. Let's try that to start.

Somehow I don't have any M3 button heads, so I mocked up M3 FHCS screws with #4 washers and... damn. That's hot.

#4 FHCS are 82 degrees included angle, and M3 FHCS are 90 degrees. I could probably crank down on the M3s and it would be "fine", but I'd know. And now you'd know. So I guess I wait for some more parts.

 

[Littlemotor]

Things that spin. Manual recommends 28T pinion and 75T spur for a 17.5T brushless setup. Let's try that to start.
View attachment 260601

Somehow I don't have any M3 button heads, so I mocked up M3 FHCS screws with #4 washers and... damn. That's hot.
View attachment 260602

#4 FHCS are 82 degrees included angle, and M3 FHCS are 90 degrees. I could probably crank down on the M3s and it would be "fine", but I'd know. And now you'd know. So I guess I wait for some more parts.

More clamping force, and meat on the driver tip to boot.. Obviously looks proper!!

 

[Spksh]

More clamping force, and meat on the driver tip to boot.. Obviously looks proper!!

I think button heads are banned on my builds from here on out.

 

[Littlemotor]

I think button heads are banned on my builds from here on out.

I use them VERY specifically/sparingly on my stuff as well.

 

[Spksh]

While we wait, let's move some electrons. Receiver box first, not sure how necessary this is but it looks cool.

Single screw into the chassis for the bottom half, then a second screw into the chassis to hold the lid on. I don't love this - the whole box kind of floats around and isn't well-secured.

Let's try some 2mm tape.

2mm is too thick! The receiver box doesn't sit flat. Rip that off and use some random servo tape that I got from... somewhere? I think it was in a bag of bits that came with a SC10.2.

Much better, and feels planted, even without the second screw.

Wiring harness mock-up.

I'm not super happy with how little length I have on the servo wiring to play with, I think ideally I would have liked to coil it.

I could solder and sleeve some nice silicone wiring to replace it, maybe print a rear-facing-90-degree cable exit from the servo. Or use an extension cable. Or if the battery isn't hard forward, I could route it over the battery tray .

I'm mostly irritated at the kink the chassis compartment bulkhead adds to the routing.

 

[Littlemotor]

While we wait, let's move some electrons. Receiver box first, not sure how necessary this is but it looks cool.
View attachment 260615

Single screw into the chassis for the bottom half, then a second screw into the chassis to hold the lid on. I don't love this - the whole box kind of floats around and isn't well-secured.
View attachment 260616View attachment 260617

Let's try some 2mm tape.
View attachment 260618View attachment 260619

2mm is too thick! The receiver box doesn't sit flat. Rip that off and use some random servo tape that I got from... somewhere? I think it was in a bag of bits that came with a SC10.2.
View attachment 260620
View attachment 260621

Much better, and feels planted, even without the second screw.
View attachment 260622

Wiring harness mock-up.
View attachment 260623

I'm not super happy with how little length I have on the servo wiring to play with, I think ideally I would have liked to coil it.

I could solder and sleeve some nice silicone wiring to replace it, maybe print a rear-facing-90-degree cable exit from the servo. Or use an extension cable. Or if the battery isn't hard forward, I could route it over the battery tray .

I'm mostly irritated at the kink the chassis compartment bulkhead adds to the routing.

Hmmmm…

Wire management sure can draw eyeballs to unintended stuff when the factory doesn’t leave any solid options.. Uggh.. I like what ya said about printing a simple (but swanky) 90deg exit.. -made me ponder if you could do a “channel” that’s like a half cutaway design that you could run over top of the servo cable around that BS with all the factory walls, but look cleaner because the cable is covered around all that?

Glad the Rx box came out pimpin’!

 

[Spksh]

if you could do a “channel” that’s like a half cutaway design that you could run over top of the servo cable around that BS with all the factory walls, but look cleaner because the cable is covered around all that?

Yeah, a discrete cable channel would be nice. I'd need just a little extra length still, though. Wonder if I have any extension leads in my stash...

 

[Littlemotor]

Yeah, a discrete cable channel would be nice. I'd need just a little extra length still, though. Wonder if I have any extension leads in my stash...

How comfortable are ya with soldering on the board? Would obviously still need a proper lead that’s long enough, but it would solve 50% of your current woes..