Build Thread Tekno SCT410 2.0

[paytonimusrex]

First time building a kit but here’s all the parts i’m using minus the body for now also have tekno wheels for later use

 

[DavidB1126]

Enjoy!
Hopefully to see you down at the track in MD soon?

 

[paytonimusrex]

got the center dif done already and that was a little more complicated than I expected with the screwing but i’ll get it sorted later, my hand hurts a lot from trying to screw it though haha

 

[DavidB1126]

Yeah. Since its new plastic. But after a while once your maintaining your car, it will get easier overtime screwing in and screwing out of plastic.

My hands do hurt after a while. Just a short question, what tools are you using? If its a standard metric hex tool set with a good handle, thats good. Its just using allen keys which hurt alot. lol. Used to have a B+D electric screw driver with MIP 1/4' bits. The screwdriver went out and died on me. Started making a terrible noise. It was fine tho. It was 40 bucks and i had it (at the time) for 3 years.

 

[paytonimusrex]

Yeah. Since its new plastic. But after a while once your maintaining your car, it will get easier overtime screwing in and screwing out of plastic.

My hands do hurt after a while. Just a short question, what tools are you using? If it’s a standard metric hex tool set with a good handle, thats good. It’s just using allen keys which hurt alot. lol. Used to have a B+D electric screw driver with MIP 1/4' bits. The screwdriver went out and died on me. Started making a terrible noise. It was fine tho. It was 40 bucks and i had it (at the time) for 3 years.

I have a hand screw driver and I grab a cordless drill that i’m using on low speed to help speed this up but the damn pins in the diffs take forever lol

 

[Littlemotor]

Use a body reamer to chamfer the holes a bit for all of your rod ends, and shock ends. You’re welcome.

Tekno plastic is the best period.

 

[paytonimusrex]

Use a body reamer to chamfer the holes a bit for all of your rod ends, and shock ends. You’re welcome.

Tekno plastic is the best period.

I will have to check that once I get there haha

 

[WickedFog]

I designed some bits to go on my 8mm hex bit. Spins link ends on in just a few seconds..

 

[paytonimusrex]

I might have to make a trip to the hardware store I guess I should have spent a little more on the tools cause my 2mm hex is already rounding it seems

 

[WickedFog]

I might have to make a trip to the hardware store I guess I should have spent a little more on the tools cause my 2mm hex is already rounding it seems

I have been using this set for about 10 years. They still look like new.
Dynamite Machined Hex Driver Metric Set Red DYN2904 Hand Tools Misc https://a.co/d/8Rz0nMk

 

[paytonimusrex]

3 diffs however are now complete

I might have to make a trip to the hardware store I guess I should have spent a little more on the tools cause my 2mm hex is already rounding it seems

found the culprit of the spinning the tools aren’t sitting in the handle properly

 

[Littlemotor]

Also, mind the manual-half of your lower shock screws will be left handed. Couldn’t tell you how many guys have stripped their control arms by not paying attention. The instructions are super detailed. As far as the reamer in the rod ends goes-it’s simply to aid in starting the threads for the turnbuckles, steering links, and shock rods. As far as torque required, I’ve used chapstick on the threads for these parts for over 20yrs. Much easier on the rod ends, and keeps the pivot balls tight when adjusting them (because you’re not bending/opening/stretching the big ends). I also always assemble them by hand. With the Tekno plastic, they’ll get hot, and end up weakening the plastic, thereby causing a failure under otherwise normal driving, or adjustment.. Do one by hand, and feel the plastic-you’ll see what I mean.

 

[paytonimusrex]

Also, mind the manual-half of your lower shock screws will be left handed. Couldn’t tell you how many guys have stripped their control arms by not paying attention. The instructions are super detailed. As far as the reamer in the rod ends goes-it’s simply to aid in starting the threads for the turnbuckles, steering links, and shock rods. As far as torque required, I’ve used chapstick on the threads for these parts for over 20yrs. Much easier on the rod ends, and keeps the pivot balls tight when adjusting them (because you’re not bending/opening/stretching the big ends). I also always assemble them by hand. With the Tekno plastic, they’ll get hot, and end up weakening the plastic, thereby causing a failure under otherwise normal driving, or adjustment.. Do one by hand, and feel the plastic-you’ll see what I mean.

yeah I felt one side get a little warm just now, I did how ever figure out the driver was just user error lol not that I finished the front gear box really taking shape

so far I love the quality of how everything goes together, super easy to build

just seems a little smaller than I thought

 

[9x19]

Enjoy!
Hopefully to see you down at the track in MD soon?

Probably only get to see the rear of his truck...

got the center dif done already and that was a little more complicated than I expected with the screwing but i’ll get it sorted later, my hand hurts a lot from trying to screw it though hahaView attachment 196442

I use one of these for the most part, don't tighten all the way under power though... easy to go too far.

Skil

Budget set of bits that have held up well for me.

Bits

 

[paytonimusrex]

Enjoy!
Hopefully to see you down at the track in MD soon?

didn’t see this but possibly my gf lives near there

i’m currently working on the front end assembly and then will post and update pic, I hate those stupid links though, also have made a few small mistakes but we making progress

 

[paytonimusrex]

finally finished the front and rear ended assemblies the links have taken way to long and made a few mistake I had to change, i’m so glad I got 2 more links and then i’ll be able to fly through the rest

 

[DavidB1126]

That was fast!

 

[Littlemotor]

finally finished the front and rear ended assemblies the links have taken way to long and made a few mistake I had to change, i’m so glad I got 2 more links and then i’ll be able to fly through the restView attachment 196473

Oh man-do you have the notches on the flats oriented toward different directions? Hard to tell in the photo, but looks that way at least on the two camber links facing us.. You want them facing the same direction so that when you make adjustments, they all go the same direction..

What happened here? Is that some kind of lubricant, or is it melted plastic from the rod end getting hot, or stripped? Hope it’s just an illusion from the photo!

 

[paytonimusrex]

Oh man-do you have the notches on the flats oriented toward different directions? Hard to tell in the photo, but looks that way at least on the two camber links facing us.. You want them facing the same direction so that when you make adjustments, they all go the same direction..

View attachment 196477

What happened here? Is that some kind of lubricant, or is it melted plastic from the rod end getting hot, or stripped? Hope it’s just an illusion from the photo!

there are notches on the on the bar facing the left side like it said

what your seeing is grease cause I don’t have chapstick lmfao and manual said either one lol

 

[Littlemotor]

there are notches on the on the bar facing the left side like it said

what your seeing is grease cause I don’t have chapstick lmfao and manual said either one lol

Awesome! Keep up the good work man-you’re almost there!