Techno EB 410 4WD Buggy.

[Iowa crawler]

The Tekin 6.5 with the RSX pro is really nice. I have the drag brake set up so I can put in a nominal drag brake setting. Like 30-40% and now when I let off the throttle the wheels slow down. If I push the three position switch forward one or two times the wheels come to a stop as soon as I release the throttle. If I move the switch the other way the wheels keep spinning with no drag brake. This is so great to be able to adjust the setting on the fly

 

[Iowa crawler]

A high fiber diet is important for performance.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I just got a Tekin T120 low profile servo for my 410.2 and moved that servo to the carpet car. I have to say I am super impressed with Teakin. First off the 6.5 mod4 motor with the RSX pro speed controller is super smooth and with the auxiliary wire I now have an adjustable drag brake on the fly.
The servo is very nice but the really nice part is the Hotwire 3.0. I now can use my phone to Bluetooth any ESC adjustments I need really quick at the track. And with my lap top I can adjust my servo travel and speed so all the travel and trims are set to center on the transmitter.
The servo is crazy powerful and at 7.5 volts transits 60 degrees in about a half a second. Next race is Sunday. Let’s see how this thing performs on Saturday at practice. I need to run it some. Then I need to change the tires. I think the ones I have now are not for 90deg temps.

 

[RustyUs]

That is one slow Tekin servo @ half a second for 60°. Are you sure it's not 0.05 sec/60°?

 

[Iowa crawler]

yes I mis stated the speed. Thanks it’s super fast but I don’t need that. What I like is the way I can set my radio trim and sub trim to center and my travel 100%. But reduce the travel from 60 deg to 50 deg using the Hotwire link on my PC. The is so smooth and just touches the steering stops. It like perfect.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Life is difficult. It’s even tougher when you stupid.
This is a long story about nothing and it is stupid.( you have been warned)

But there is no one else I can tell who would understand.
I bought the original eb410 used for 300 bucks. It had wheels and tires all the electronics and a ton of carbon fiber upgrades. I think it was a good deal. I then raced it and tuned it a little and decided to convert it to carpet and get the eb410.2 to race the rest of the dirt season.
I built up the eb410.2 and it was great out of the box. So I decided to swap all the carbon fiber and aluminum bits over to my eb410.2 and just rebuild the eb410 over the next couple months. Carpet racing starts in October. After swapping all the bits over I changed the electronics and the eb410.2 is a monster.

So I began putting the eb410 back together. Need different oils and springs and I started collecting stuff a little at a time. But I could not find my rear camber mount. And I am super careful about parts. So for about a week I just kind looked for it. Then I got some springs and built up the shocks and assembled the roller. Except I still did not have a camber brace. I swapped all the plastic shock towers over from the eb410.2 and could not figure out why the camber brace was missing, so I started to search. After a couple days of digging through everything I figured it must have bounced under the bench. Nothing but a clean under there now. So I decide it’s ten bucks and I must have thrown it away. I order one. Now I’m sure to find it right?? Nope. But I keep looking. After crawling under the bench and behind all the base board cracks I decide it’s gone.

As I’m looking at the rear wing mount I see that the C shaped camber mount from the eb410.2 is different than the eb410. And the wing won’t work with the camber mount. So I do a little research and discover the eb410 and the eb410.2 have different camber mounting blocks. And different sway bar set ups. So I can’t use the eb410.2 camber mount that is C shaped. I need to order the eb410 one that is just a straight bar. Great but I have been looking for a blue C shaped piece for three weeks. Now I need to start over and look for the streight one that is gun metal color. And after a couple days I just have to give up and wait for the mail man.
I fab up a mount out of a popsicle stick just to hold the control arms and discover the ball joints are pointing back to front not up and down. And that does not make sense because of the different mounts. So I decide to look through some pictures in this thread and guess what???

There is no camber mount!! The upper control arms bolt to the fancy carbon fiber shock towers.

And when I eventually get them the eb410 rear wing mount won’t work. So I need to order one of those.

 

[Doom!]

DOH!

 

[Iowa crawler]

The wing mount is in stock at my local hobby shop. So as always the part I need the least is the part I get first.

 

[Iowa crawler]

After all of that this is basically the 410.2 rear camber mount and wing mount. And this is the best set up. Short of the carbon fiber shock tower.

 

[ahr43]

@ post #46. Yeah, been through some of those searching for the part episodes. They can be maddening. Most recently had me going back to my online purchase record to verify I had actually bought the part. O.k., bought it. Now to find it. Later, found it after having given up looking for it.

One of the joys of RC that, like you say, someone outside the hobby won't understand. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Iowa crawler]

On an upside to it all when I was building the eb410.2 I dropped the thin shim for the front pivot. They are 3.5 mm inside and .05mm thick. You have to buy an entire pill set to get new replacements. I went nuts looking for that and ended up cutting one from Lexan. Well it managed to hide on top of a paint can under my workbench.

 

[Doom!]

I've had that happen, dropped a small part, looked for it for an hour, gave up, and found it in my shoe when I took them off that night.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Today was a good day with the buggy. I got some good practice in yesterday and was pushing the fast guys. After the race talked with one of the fast guys and he asked about my set up. I don’t know what I’m doing so I use the stock set up sheet and it works for me. He suggested a lighter oils set up for this track. So rather than 45 weight oil I’m going 32.5 front and 27 weight rear.
And the diff stocks was 15k front 30k center 10k rear. So I’m going to try 10k front 20k center and 7.5k rear.
And Blockades with better foams.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Well it’s time.
Winter storm warnings all over the Midwest. The race track is closed. I’m off work for four days at Christmas. I’m going to do a total rebuild on my EB410.2. It did a fantastic job last season. It drove better than I was driving it. I don’t know how, but it just seemed to drive itself sometimes.

So total tear down shocks, diffs check all the screws. I have to check if this has ceramic bearings . I think it does but I’ll check for any new up grades. I also want to change the body. It dose not match my now standard body paint scheme.

It had no other issues so let’s see how it looks inside.

 

[Iowa crawler]

The tear down is very quick with these. But once it’s broken down into sub assemblies it takes a bit of time. Everything looks pretty good. A little dirty in the cracks. The bottom looks very good for a full season of racing with no protection.
There are a couple of screws that are shined off I need to replace. But that’s it so far.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I basically go off the instruction book and rebuild everything and clean it. There is a thin layer of clay powder covering everything. The air blower and brushes miss all of this.
And these are not ceramic bearings. I will get some Fast Eddie bearings and save the originals as back up.

Things go wrong sometimes and it is expected. The problems are what they are but how you react to them makes the difference. This is the second screw I turned and it stripped the other three are still good.
This happens with RC cars and my quick solution is to cut a slot and use a flat blade screw driver.
This works well and the screw can actually be reused till you get a replacement. But you can’t be timid when cutting the slot. And you can’t make two cuts. You only get one chance to cut a perfect slot a screw driver can grip. And you want to put heat to break any locktight . So use a small blade not a new big one and get the part held steady and just cut it.

 

[Iowa crawler]

The center differential looks great inside. The oil is a little dark but no problems.
The gasket is all warped and one screw stripped so I need to order
Bearings
Screws
And diff gaskets
Now on to the front suspension.

I need to set up an ultrasonic cleaner for these parts. The brush gets everything pretty clean but clay powder still covers everything.

 

[Iowa crawler]

I still have to break down the shocks and hubs but I’m out of little parts trays. I had one more diff screw kinda feel like it was gonna slip so I’ll order like 50 of them from McMaster Carr. It’s like 10 bucks.
The only thing I found broken was one failed axle seal in the rear differential. I bet it’s on the right side. Our track had two high speed turn and bearing ms and seal take a beating. But that’s not a bad parts list.
I also want to fix my mistake with the shock tower.

Found my cleaning machine . My wife had a new bottle of degreaser and I found the power cable. It’s like the stars are aligned!!

 

[Iowa crawler]

I man look what I found.

 

[Iowa crawler]

Huston we have a problem.