Team Associated B74.1D 4WD buggy build 2.0

[DavidB1126]

Hoping to get a new body soon. Either the new LFR Bretta Body or I'll be getting something from Jconcepts. The current LFR Body I have looks good with a good paint job.
Gonna try to find my team colors again because duratrax is half backorder and take my time painting, or Ill send it to the pro painter that my buddies do.

 

[DavidB1126]

All these carpet tires that I can't use anymore

2 sets of these only have 1 track day on them.

I heard First State is reopening up so I'm waiting for that and hopefully I can check it out one day. Its an hour or so north east from me.

And also, new charge leads. Look alot cleaner and nicer. Should last me a while. On one of the leads, the bullets are tight going into the battery so hopefully they can loosen up within a few uses.

 

[DavidB1126]

Racin today. Got 4th in the a main. Stayed where I started. All alright. Car did good. Going back to almost stock setup helped calm down the car when landing.

 

[BarnFabRC]

What body is that? No more bomb pop?!

 

[DavidB1126]

What body is that? No more bomb pop?!

It's a LFR body I got from my buddy. I wanted to try out a different scheme and it turned out terrible. I call it bomb pop melted. Lol. I painted the body like back in October. About to get a new one and try to find my same color paints in a few.

I have to try to find my paint codes as I used duratrax paints and they are going out of stock everywhere. Gotta find the equivalent in either Tamiya or Traxxas rattle cans. Or I can try to get a pro painter to do it. I think the ones my buddies use is pro lidz customs

 

[BarnFabRC]

It's a LFR body I got from my buddy. I wanted to try out a different scheme and it turned out terrible. I call it bomb pop melted. Lol. I painted the body like back in October. About to get a new one and try to find my same color paints in a few.

I have to try to find my paint codes as I used duratrax paints and they are going out of stock everywhere. Gotta find the equivalent in either Tamiya or Traxxas rattle cans. Or I can try to get a pro painter to do it. I think the ones my buddies use is pro lidz customs

Don’t forget spaz stix! I’m trying to figure out my scheme for the RC10 classic. I’m thinking anvil gray with fluorescent yellow and a little black.

 

[DavidB1126]

Buddy recorded the main yesterday
It was a crazy race

 

[DavidB1126]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3953210555...7RJ9engLandYliNGN52/kzVA==|tkp:Bk9SR5qL8JXoYw

 

[DavidB1126]

Since I won't be racing for a while:
- https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/bashing-a-race-buggy.142057/#post-1440206

And also, I put some red sharpie on the bullets and made it cleaner by zip tie to the center diff brace thing.

 

[DavidB1126]

Should hopefully be back into RC in the next few weeks because summer break! When at the track ill see what I have in my gear bag and see if I can get more speed by gearing up. Or down if I go down to 72T on the spur gear. Due to having a new esc, my old programmer doesn't work and I'm waiting for the new LCD Box G3/Pro from hobbywing to come back in stock so I can tune the esc. But for now ill mess with the gearing and slightly play with the motor timing, and watching motor temps. Because the last few times racing, I am getting passed by alot on the straight.

 

[DavidB1126]

Track today. Same old car. Tires are getting worn. Got a "semi used" set, well 2 sets with me just in case. Always getting faster and better.

 

[DavidB1126]

Went to 997 a couple of weekends ago and car did well on the new Fuzz Bite tires. those tires on black crc carpet are amazing. On grey eos with the old track had, they were still great but they had way too much traction though. I just lowered my ride height from my dirt setup and sent it. Nice to get back onto carpet.

Went to the track this past Saturday. No racing as we didn't have people so just a practice day. I turned my timing on the motor up a few degrees and was a bit faster down the straight. Tuning in my new radio and adjusting my driving due to my new NB4 radio. Did get some driving lessons from my buddy Rhys on how to not take corners/turns wide and keeping it smooth and consistent. My fastest lap of the day, and ever was a 17.4. LETS GO!!! The other past 2 times I was there, my fastest those days was a 17.7. But on regular laps I'm running 18s - 20 second lap times.

My OG tires on the car, the worn down ellipses, yea they are done. Start to have a hole in the rubber on one of the rear tires so I got out another set of semi used tires from my buddy which he hasn't raced in a while. On the wheels it said April of 2015, lol. After a few batteries those rubber got warm and started to soften up, and gain more traction. Still using yellow dot compound, but I am running out so will use yellow/green dot after I finish the bottle I have already. I do like yellow dot more than yellow/green so might pick up another yellow dot bottle. Ill see. Yellow is in-fact the strongest compound in the FDJ lineup that I am aware of.

Edit:
I need a new body for sure. When at the track down the straight I wasn't paying attention, drifted and hit the pole straight on. Didn't break anything but had a huge crack in the front of my body. Body has gorilla tape and electrical tape holding it together. Lol.

 

[DavidB1126]

Updated my race blog thread
Check it out here: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/davidbs-bomb-pop-rcs-race-blog-thread.141470/post-1462809

My FIRST A-MAIN WIN EVER!!!

Edit:

Next up for this build:
- New wheels / tires (associated b74.1 +1.5mm wheels / jconcepts smoothie 2 silver tires)
- Mylaps RC4 3 wire transponder
- Hardware kit (need to replace some screws that go into the chassis as they been struct by dirt and are pretty stripped out)
- Bearing kit
- New Body (Jconcepts S2 body/wing - not the lightweight one)
- Paints (when duratrax gets there stocks back in order)
- More practice and tuning
- Potential tune up on my esc/motor? (To be fair other of the faster racers are running mod motors in a 13.5 blinky class so can't blame myself or my car)
- Full rebuild potentially. (Really hard to get a brush and clean out dirt in the tight areas near the diff cases and chassis braces. )

 

[Greywolf74]

Updated my race blog thread
Check it out here: https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/davidbs-bomb-pop-rcs-race-blog-thread.141470/post-1462809

My FIRST A-MAIN WIN EVER!!!

Edit:

Next up for this build:
- New wheels / tires (associated b74.1 +1.5mm wheels / jconcepts smoothie 2 silver tires)
- Mylaps RC4 3 wire transponder
- Hardware kit (need to replace some screws that go into the chassis as they been struct by dirt and are pretty stripped out)
- Bearing kit
- New Body (Jconcepts S2 body/wing - not the lightweight one)
- Paints (when duratrax gets there stocks back in order)
- More practice and tuning
- Potential tune up on my esc/motor? (To be fair other of the faster racers are running mod motors in a 13.5 blinky class so can't blame myself or my car)
- Full rebuild potentially. (Really hard to get a brush and clean out dirt in the tight areas near the diff cases and chassis braces. )

Gratz David!

 

[DavidB1126]

Back too it! Been almost a month since I been to the track. Got the rounded screen out. Put back together the front hubs and bearings. Cleaned up the shocks and car overall. New slicks in the front mounted up and ready to go. Body cut. Gonna paint tomorrow. Also it's a Jconcepts S15 for the B74.2 btw

Probably gonna go to the track and race next weekend, if not racing, practice.

I actually like this body better than the old one I had. There's more of a cab too it than the old one.

 

[DavidB1126]

All Painted up!

Going to the track tomorrow. Dang it. Just noticed that the front sway bar mount broke. Idc. Gonna send it

 

[DavidB1126]

Raced yesterday! View my results here in my race blog
https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/davidbs-bomb-pop-rcs-race-blog-thread.141470/post-1473230

 

[DavidB1126]

Gotta prepare this for the indoor/winter season, for 2 new to me carpet tracks!

Gotta clean up the car, going to get/use @BarnFabRC 's method with Spray-9 cleaner and or simple green and a old tooth brush.
Gotta install shock tower protectors, cut out a new wing, get a new chassis protector, get my Fuzz bite set of tires out of my collection. Gonna rebuild the shocks.
Currently because of 2 stripped and dirt packed in the screw heads, I cannot access the front diff. Ugh. What is a method to get hard packed dirt out of screw heads, and how to get them out with out using the dremel since I don't wanna ruin the expensive chassis here. I currently do not have access to a drill, and my uncle got most of his tools stolen the other week, also ugh.

Oh yea, also gonna order a new gear box for the front since the holes for the sway bar mount set screws are stripped out, and the sway bar mount broke. Will install when I get those screws I said above out.

Probably half way through the season ill need tires badly, I heard that ProMotion Vipers in the green compound works very well on the black crc that First State has, probably will go with ProMotion since it is a few bucks cheaper than Fuzz Bites. Sticking with the same electronics I got for right now

 

[Lumikko]

Currently because of 2 stripped and dirt packed in the screw heads, I cannot access the front diff. Ugh. What is a method to get hard packed dirt out of screw heads, and how to get them out with out using the dremel since I don't wanna ruin the expensive chassis here. I currently do not have access to a drill, and my uncle got most of his tools stolen the other week, also ugh.

WD40 can be used to soften the dirt. Pick it out with a needle and finish with a brush.

If the screws with the stripped heads screw into plastic, a screw extractor bit will suffice.

If the screws thread into aluminium, use an automatic center punch at a slight angle so that the punching motion presses the screw while rotating it. It takes several punches but the screw will start to creep open with a very high probability. If you make a few dents around where the hex bit should fit, chances are you can shrink it a little and unscrew it the rest of the way normally.

Hudy, MIP, and such make hex drivers to the upper limit of the allowed tolerance for the tool size. These are far less likely to strip the head compared to regular ones to save you the trouble in the future.

 

[DavidB1126]

Yea I currently use mostly dynamite, Arrowmaxx and some protek hand tools, and I have MIP speed bits that I'm using with my electric driver. Maybe considering upgrading to a whole new tool set. I heard Team Eds are like hudy but much less expensive. (@Greywolf74 , @WickedFog , @STONER RC ? )