• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Build Thread Tamiya TT02....mostly pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ritz413

Hardcore RCTalk User
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
2,178
Reaction score
6,434
Points
788
I did not go to the hobby shop planning to b buy this...am glad I did though. The process has been a ton of fun. Soon on to the driving part. My plan is to keep it complete stock to be able to run in the local races.
20251028_144940.webp

It begins....
20251028_145132.webp
Haven't seen something like this for a while. Much rather do this. RTR means ready to rebuild....I just get to drive it before I tear it down for repairs and updates....or to be the first one to put lube in the diff....on to the fun stuff.
20251028_145514.webp
so many pieces....
20251028_153952.webp

Plastic drive shaft and bushings.....hhmmm
20251028_162831.webp

20251028_172248.webp

The infamous "torque tuned 540"
20251028_221148.webp

Because we haven't seen the bottom of the chassis yet...
20251029_001433.webp

Steering is almost a thing. Friction dampers installed, there is grease inside for better movement.
20251029_044940.webp
starting look like something...1st problem. The wheels are on there. The factory supplied hexes were so long I could not get even close to the rubber on the lock nut. I actually cut them down about 40 % to get the wheels on well enough to test drive. Still lost a wheel...not low enough. I ordered aluminum hexes at a 5mm thickness. The wheels fit right, I did narrow the stance by probably 3-4mm doing that.
20251031_001908.webp

I used the supplied mounts, and my own servo as needed to complete. I tried to get a pic of the mount on this side. If you can see it. I cut the mount in half so it only uses the chassis mount and lower servo mount on this side. Also I trimmed the top ear off the servo. At full throttle the driveshaft would rub and vibrate in ways even real bearings would make up for. Nice and smooth now!
20251029_115154.webp
the build is complete minus the new wheels hexes and green anodized wheel nuts. The usps guy was enjoying them for me at this time...
20251029_213401.webp

Body fitting, I did appreciate the precut wheel wells and the side mirror is just a push in with a body clip. It's like they think you will break them and made it quick and easy to fix....who does that? I might be 1 of a few people who did not buy this car for the body....not a style of racing I have ever followed. The build platform is the same throughout the line, and pricing reflects the licensing if the body until it becomes the Tt02R. A model I might pick up at the right price after having built this. Looks like a lot of upgrades in the right places for not too much extra. Painted body shown in a video below. I did not follow the plan on the box....I did use some stickers. A real "smokeshow" out back...hehe. no fancy hobby shop paint. Just random rattle cans I have around ...for reasons....mostly rustoleum.
 
On my only test drive so far I had the steering set at around 60 % which seemed more than adequate. I have since backed off to 55% since when you turn to full stop in 1 direction it looks like potential to rub on the drive shaft as the linkage moves. Will have to go the track this week and take a few laps to see if it has enough to make all the corners without an increase in steering angle. I don't expect any issues. If there are 2 washers to lift the steering linkage is probably all that it will take.
 
Last edited:
Might be able to get to the track tomorrow. Spent some time tonight with factory wheels and tires on the balancer. Once again eliminating some potential driveline vibration.
20251031_212601.webp
While I am really curious to see the potential of the stock car. I will do every little thing within the rules to get the most out of it. How well I drive tomorrow will be a good deciding factor on whether I should worry about picking up a transponder sooner or later. Would be good to have to be able to get lap times etc even during practice.
 
Bearings will make a huge difference in this car. If you are allowed to run them and still be 'stock', they are a HUGE advantage and may help eliminate more vibration too. 😎👍
Yes sir!! So far I am having a good time trying to see how good I can make it with just what is provided in the kit. Next time I get down to the lhs I will be asking if I can run bearings for sure....adj. oil shocks are never bad either....
I will say I have it surprisingly smooth atm.
 
Before any performance mods I may do some led lighting. When I painted the body I left the head and tail light lenses a different density than the paint on the main shell. With just a light dropped behind it should make for a good effect.
20251031_103302.webp
the flashlight shows a little through the main shell, but is quite a bit brighter than a single led will be.
 
Down at the lhs now. Got some numbers on the paved track outside. The indoor carpet is in use atm. Anyone know how these look for stock numbers? About what is to be expected performance wise running the plastic bearing set? Thanks in advance.
Screenshot_20251101_132345_Power GNSS.webp
 
Got my answers on "stock class"...pretty lenient. Mostly it says this motor/esc, and very specific tire....
20251101_161321.webp

This tire
No problem with adding bearings, oil filled dampers , or upgrading the driveshafts.
Today's performance testing went well. It's smooth, quiet, and what I would call quick not fast with a max speed today of 19.5mph. All that said, I ran through 2 5200 2s batteries, had 1 small crash, and zero issues. Nothing broke, handling is better than expected, and there is enough power to power slide on blacktop through the corners. There was a guy there asking a lot of questions....I may have helped them sell the next tt02....
 
Thank you for this. I ordered a set of bearings already....and a couple other things with mixed arrival times.....am currently waiting on a delivery that was supposed to be here last Monday.
 
Upgrade parts are starting to arrive for this car. Soon I will tear back into it, and then get a new speed test in. Tonight it gets a new IC5 connector since I guess I am moving everything to that format now....it is what it is....but the solder joints look good! 1 more battery left to switch over.
20251104_215833.webp
 
Upgrade parts are starting to arrive for this car. Soon I will tear back into it, and then get a new speed test in. Tonight it gets a new IC5 connector since I guess I am moving everything to that format now....it is what it is....but the solder joints look good! 1 more battery left to switch over.View attachment 254669
Did you know EC5 and IC5 are compatible? Just putting that out there in case you didn't.
 
With this set up it breaks loose in the back easier. Seemed easier to hold a straight path over distance. Some of it could be different asphalt in front of my place vs at the hobby shop. Either way top speed is the same, acceleration is too
 
Ran this car a bit again today. Made suspension adjustments moving all 4 shocks top the outer hole on the top giving the shocks a bit more vertical angle. Added an ounce of lead out back, and swapped the tires over to a set of radial touring tires that get better traction on the pavement out front of my place.
20251106_112308.webp
Top speed remains the same. Acceleration shows a more aggressive run up to a flat spot where max speed is achieve in the first probably 40ft. Handling is drastically improved. Launch is cleaner with less wheel spin. While I can break it loose in a corner it doesn't happen so easy that you get caught sliding by accident.
Also, I ran a fully charge 2s battery down to abot 7.6v and checked the motor temp....just above 150f. Too hot?
 
what even is with the op using a chatbot to type out what they want to say rather than doing it themselves...
I think we talked about temps being ok to 160-5 before damage is supposed to happen. Most ppl shoot for a bit lower than that. You could always try a regear. Changing tires often requires a tooth up or down adjustment for minor height changes. 😎
Sounds like you're doing great at getting her dialed in now! Nice work! 👍
 
Ok guys....interesting day. This is the pile of casualties from upgrading this afternoon....
20251108_122632.webp
got rid of the motor cover in exchange for a heatsink and fan combo. Seem to be working well. Today's driving the motor never got above 80f.
Tamiya aluminum center drive shaft, full Trb bearing kit, oil filled aluminum shocks, and a tamiya locking spool for the rear diff.
This is the only company that gave me a free stickers for my effort. Thanks Trb Rc!
20251108_122829.webp

GPS data for acceleration and top speed is unchanged.
Screenshot_20251108_124404_Power GNSS.webp

I have solutions for that in the works. I just find interesting that a full bearing drive train and both rear wheels pushing made no change...at all.
The handling however is next level by comparison to yesterday. I order 62 mm over length shocks. Installed the factory springs so they are not extended completely when installed, but have good tension on the spring in all positions once on the car. Different oil f/b. No hopping and chatter in the corners, easy to break the wheels loose in a controlled slide, or blow off some donuts from a dead stop. This is getting g a lot closer to the car I want it to be.
Side note for anyone considering locking the rear diff. It is impossible to drive it if you leave the gyro on. You go to launch, the wheels spin, the back shifts, and the gyro corrects and leaves you spinning in a circle as you fight it. Off this thing is a dream to drive.
 
Back
Top