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speaker box math help

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bgbdwlf2500

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Ok so I finally found the manufacturers specs on the type and size box to build for my setup. Problem is to run 2 subs built to their specs it just ain't gonna fit.

So heres their numbers:
Height 15.71
Width 25.42
Depth 9.709
For an empty box total of 2.244 cu ft.
Those dimensions are the inside number and they say to use 1" material so outside dimensions are 2" bigger than that.

My problem is 54" is way to long and the height is overkill. Depth is probably about right.

So I came up with a 30x16x16 and that was really close to being the correct volume for two woofers. What other dimensions could be used? Anybody have a program that might help? They are 12" woofers and I want them mounted either on the front or back not top or bottom.

Probably have 38" length easy to work with and I think the dimension they used for the depth is about as small as you can go.

The formula is h x w x d /1728

I could sit here and throw in numbers all night but figured someone here might have a program or something that could do it
 
I know...try using them on a phone...lol

---------- Post added at 8:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:20 PM ----------

I want to do it the other way. Give the desired volume and have the dimensions spit back out. I know what the volume needs to be. It needs to be 2.244 for one and 2.488 for 2. The speaker and all is already factored in. The recommended with the box loaded is 2 cu ft per sub.
 
Could always seperate it internally into two 2.4 chambers. Do 16 h, 20d, 38 wide with 1" mdf and a 1" divider would be just over 5 total. Not including the sub though.
 
Last edited:
I did some plugging for you, and I came up with this

25.79 wide
16.76 high
26.97 deep These are the perfect dimensions for 4.488 cuFT

Its as deep as it is wide so all you have to do for the most part is remove a number of inches you want to take from one measurement, then just add it to the other.

Boxnotes report for project: default
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finished size 25.79 inches wide 16.76 inches high 26.97in deep - Panel thickness 1in - Single Front Panel

Internal Volume: 4.88 cu.ft Working Vol 4.45 cu.ft Tune 0hz

Component volumes: Bracing = .24 cu.ft Driver = .17 cu.ft Total = .42 cu.ft


Cutting List
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Panel dimensions show finished size

Top panel 25.79 inches wide 25.97 inches deep

Front outer panel 25.79 inches wide 16.76 inches high

Front inner panel 23.79 inches wide 14.76 inches high

Left side panel 25.97 inches deep 15.76 inches high

Right side panel 25.97 inches deep 15.76 inches high

Rear panel 23.79 inches wide 14.76 inches high

Bottom panel 23.79 inches wide 25.97 inches deep

Shelf brace 24.18 inches wide 24.18 inches deep

Shelf brace includes 0.2 inch all round for rebating into 4 adjacent panels


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Report generated at: 21:45:46 on 07-01-2013 from Boxnotes Version:3.1
The latest version of Boxnotes is available at www.subwoofer-builder.com/freesoft.htm
 
if the space needed is more than the space available you can cheat the airspace by adding egg foam to the inner walls of the box. A little under spec usually won't effect the sound quality either.
 
I took it to a shop. By the time I buy the MDF its cheaper just to pay for a box. They're gonna make it 35x15x21 I think it is. Double front dual chambers.

Its funny though, the few comments on here are all for jl. They basically say the jl is junk. The thing is tho they don't sell either so I feel a little better about the orions. I don't know. I've never had orion subs but I have had jl and I did like them. Hopefully soon I will have some lows to go with the really nice highs I'm getting from sur3fir3's jl amp
 
JL is definately not junk, nor is Orion, go to somewhere who sells Jl and not orion and they will say the same thing against JL. Both are good though for sure, I'm sure you will be happy with your purhcase.
 
Considering JL audio holds more iasca wins than anyone else I'd say they are good lol. I used to work at a shop doing custom installs and enclosures. Technically the box does not have to be exact spec, I've built many that weren't and worked out great. Yeah....it should be but unless you're going for DB drags or sq I'd say make something that fits.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
 
Ain't it lol...ask him how many awards they have lol

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Considering JL audio holds more iasca wins than anyone else I'd say they are good lol. I used to work at a shop doing custom installs and enclosures. Technically the box does not have to be exact spec, I've built many that weren't and worked out great. Yeah....it should be but unless you're going for DB drags or sq I'd say make something that fits.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

I've got the space to make it to spec. What they were basically saying is that for that money a w7 should handle more power. I'm building this one for sound quality so the box will be a sealed one built to specs. If I feel like they don't sound good I'll try a jl. At 3 ohms it'll put my amp just under its 1000w RMS. I'm not biased either way. I've had an orion amp but never a sub. Never had a jl amp but had their subs and liked them and I have to say the jl amp is clean.
 
they are both good company's Orion has been making high end audio from the 80's JL is a little newer to the game and really didn't start making good high end stuff til the mid 90's. Orion amps are one of the best amps I have ever seen. When I did car audio in the 90's we had a Orion amp to a 1/4 ohm with out any issues on our showroom showing what it could do.
 
When I competed I had Orion components in the doors, loved them. I've never had orion amp before. A choice between them I'd have to go JL for sq or sq+ for sure but its not just the equipment it's placement also. Almost anything can sound good to the human ear if done right but not so much to an analyzer.

As far as handling power any speaker can handle more than its Max, as long as its a clean signal, this goes especially for quality speakers. Its always better to over power as opposed to under power a speaker. The distortion is typically what kills a speaker, or the voice coil burning up for getting too carried away with wattage. I've seen subs catch on fire....OK it was mine lol.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

---------- Post added at 1:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:38 PM ----------

they are both good company's Orion has been making high end audio from the 80's JL is a little newer to the game and really didn't start making good high end stuff til the mid 90's. Orion amps are one of the best amps I have ever seen. When I did car audio in the 90's we had a Orion amp to a 1/4 ohm with out any issues on our showroom showing what it could do.

Remember PPI before they went all SPL? Specifically the art series. Man those had a beautiful warm sound, clean as can be. I miss the old days where quality came before quantity and all the companies sold out. I met Alma gates once in Florida at an event and we talked about that and where the industry was headed lol, how cool is that! That was when she took over kicker and rocked the spl record with the ugly bronco lol. I miss the old stuff, sound stream, ADS, US amps, the "good" fosgate stuff before they commercialized. Not the same anymore.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2
 
I had an "original" Rockford Fosgate Punch 40 so I know what you mean.
 
Had a punch 200ix, loved that thing. Awesome amp for pro street

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I had 2 power dvc 12 on an rf 1100a2 and 4 dvc 8's on an 800a2 in an extended cab truck. It sounded really good. That was the most extreme until now.
 
I don't mess with car audio anymore but every time I read the specs on all of this new stuff it makes me laugh. My old Orion XTR-2250 "The Beast" was rated at 500 per channel, you would need two or three of todays 1000 watt amps to keep up with that thing!

All of these Chinese built crap these days don't hold a candle to the old made in the USA stuff!

---------- Post added at 1:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:09 PM ----------

the "good" fosgate stuff before they commercialized. Not the same anymore.

When Fosgate sold out one of there employees went out on his own and started building Lunar amps, his shop was not too far from me. Most people around here knew that these had the quality parts that Fosgate used in the past so there was no hesitation to buy them. He must had used something proprietary to Fosgate because they quickly sued him out of business.
 
Couldn't you also just mount them isobaric to cut the space needed? Then you would just need the space of one inside the box... granted, not as pretty to look at, but cuts down the space needed to get the same hit as two drivers.

Then again... if they aren't a matched pair, they may kill each other.

Has been many years since I ran subs... 15 years ago, I ran two kicker 12"'s in an isobaric box in a hyundai. LOL. Rattle the teeth out of your head with metallica!
 
I'm going to be using a new orion hcca 25001 to push 2 hcca 12's. I've never had subs made like this. The specs are insane.. 2000w RMS each so thats 1000w per coil. Apparently they've attracted quite a bit of attention while they're sitting at best buy waiting for the box to be built.
IMG_20130628_115537_165.webp

IMG_20130703_122834_799.webp
 
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