So I bought a used nitro from a kid.

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This morning, after i took care of some errands I decided to go out and see if i could get it to run. I primed it and it started on the second pull after sitting all night. NICE! Anyway, I ran it for a while mostly to show the wife how awesome it is, and now I need to spend more money to fix it! :hehe:

So I started tearing it down to 'seal the engine'

I found that the carb slide has some scratching on it. I'm assuming that this isn't normal, and could possibly be part of what's causing my idle problems?

Problem is that the air filter attachment point on the carb body has a chip out of it. I'm pretty sure a filter housing will still seal against/over it, but would I be better off buying just a carb slide, or a complete new carb and saving the decent parts from the old one?

Moving on to disassemble more of it. :)
 
A chip on the filter end won't be a problem. Just make sure you use a zip tie to secure the filter tube.
When you seal the neck, just put the sealer on the OUTSIDE of the carb neck, NOT inside the carb opening of the engine. Slide it in and press down hard against the neck to seal it against the 0-ring while snugging it down.

Just in case you haven't seen it>>>https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=726317&postcount=6
...and this.............................>>>https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=726321&postcount=7
 
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A chip on the filter end won't be a problem. Just make sure you use a zip tie to secure the filter tube.
When you seal the neck, just put the sealer on the OUTSIDE of the carb neck, NOT inside the carb opening of the engine. Slide it in and press down hard against the neck to seal it against the 0-ring while snugging it down.

Just in case you haven't seen it>>>https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=726317&postcount=6
...and this.............................>>>https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=726321&postcount=7

Yep, I saw that thread, and was waiting for advice on the carb body before I threw it back in there. What do you think about the slide itself?

Pictures :

Carb Body : http://imageshack.us/a/img198/6232/vq19.jpg

Carb slide : http://imageshack.us/a/img189/674/rbxh.jpg

Hopefully the carb slide picture came out ok. If you can see them, there are black marks all up and down the slide, that seem like scratches but almost feel more like large elongated pitted areas.
 
I would just grab a whole carb.

I just noticed in that picture that the carb has an o-ring on it. Mine doesn't. I guess I found my air leak. :hehe:

I think for now I'll just seal it up and see what happens. :\
 
I just noticed in that picture that the carb has an o-ring on it. Mine doesn't. I guess I found my air leak. :hehe:

I think for now I'll just seal it up and see what happens. :\

I'll check my parts bin.........no promises but I may have a spare carb.
 
There should be 2 O-rings, 1 on the carb like you see in the link and also an O-ring in the block at the base where the carb throat fits.

You do need a new carb or at least a carb body IMO. The scoring on the slide vale looks like pitting from rust, how long did the engine sit?
 
There should be 2 O-rings, 1 on the carb like you see in the link and also an O-ring in the block at the base where the carb throat fits.

You do need a new carb or at least a carb body IMO. The scoring on the slide vale looks like pitting from rust, how long did the engine sit?

I noticed when I was sealing it that there was actually one o-ring inside of the block, but not on the carb body.
I have no idea how long it sat for. Obviously it wasn't loved the way I would have loved it if it was new. For all I know, the kid just threw a junk carb on it at the last minute before selling it to some dumb guy. :p:

I'm just adding this up here... carb slide, carb body = almost as much as a new carb. But the needles seem to be in good shape, which is why i'm hesitant to replace the whole thing.

---------- Post added at 7:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:47 PM ----------

I'll check my parts bin.........no promises but I may have a spare carb.
That would be pretty sweet. Let me know how much you want for it. I'm pretty sure my wife has a paypal account setup.


I'd also like to add that this forum is great. You guys are all very helpful.

Free plumbing advice all around. :):D
 
at the price of a whole new carb from a chop shop I would grab one and keep the old one for spares
I've got 2 wholes sitting in my parts box but i'm a bit to far away from you....
if you were to rebuild your carb you would need a new body and probably the o ring kit aswell
 
I'm just adding this up here... carb slide, carb body = almost as much as a new carb. But the needles seem to be in good shape, which is why i'm hesitant to replace the whole thing.

And that boys and girls, is where parts bins come from. :D
 
And that boys and girls, is where parts bins come from. :D

:hehe:

I guess I'm looking for a new carb today. I also wanted to add that I pulled the piston and sleeve while I had the back plate off. The top 1/4" was very tight. It took good effort to spin the piston by the connecting rod. The lower 1/4"was where the real slop was, although still didn't seem like much to me. So, my uneducated assessment is that while it's worn, the engine still has compression. :)
 
So my wife gave me the go ahead for a new carb plus all of the other parts I need.

Feeling Giddy. :hehe::first_place:
 
:hehe:

I guess I'm looking for a new carb today. I also wanted to add that I pulled the piston and sleeve while I had the back plate off. The top 1/4" was very tight. It took good effort to spin the piston by the connecting rod. The lower 1/4"was where the real slop was, although still didn't seem like much to me. So, my uneducated assessment is that while it's worn, the engine still has compression. :)

That's how nitro engines work, that's the "pinch" we talk about.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
New carb ordered, screws, air filter, gas tank rebuild (cap is leaking air maybe another problem with the idle?)

This cheap car is turning into an expensive car quickly, and it still doesn't have a body. Lesson learned, but let's just make the most out of it anyway. At this point I am over it, and just want to have fun with it. :)

I let my daughter drive it around the driveway yesterday at low speeds and her eyes were lit up like christmas time. So fun. :) She really enjoyed the donuts it does with the bald rear tires.

So I have a set of stock rustler wheels with tires mounted, i'm assuming they are rear tires since they have the nubs all over them. Is there any way to confirm rear wheel vs front wheel? I see an R stamped inside on the plastic, but who knows if that even actually signifies anything at all.

Darnit, I forgot the bearings. Maybe i'll just pick up a set of those cheap self lubricating bushings at the hobby shop when i'm over this week.
 
If you're looking for some tires look at the 2.2 Dirt Hawgs, I had them on my Rusty and they were great, long life and good traction. I've also heard good things about the Yokohama MTs from HPI. If you decide to go with some 2.8 wheels and tires, just remember that they're bigger and heavier, so you'll have to change your gearing. I was able to run the 2.2 DHs with my stock gearing without any real noticeable loss of performance. Once I put the 2.8 Trenchers on though, I had to drop a couple teeth on the CB.

Here's my Rusty with the 2.2 Dirt Hawgs

2011-08-17172832.gif


My on road setup

2011-08-10163238.gif


Trenchers

2013-01-20125043.gif
 
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update

Sealing the parts mentioned before worked wonders.

I was able to get it running really well today. The only thing i'm really lacking is a temperature gauge to make sure i'm not too hot, but I figure if I can still touch the heatsink for a couple of seconds I must be a little on the rich side, which is better than the alternative.

I let my son drive it for probably about 20 minutes after i drove it for a full tank. and it ran beautifully until he flipped it into the grass.

After that it started running funny, so It must have dislodged my shim on the gas cap and letting air into it. Now I just have to be patient and wait for parts to come in. Already through half a quart of top fuel. :hehe:

Schrode : Do you know what tires you're using for on-road? I'll probably be using those MOST to start with, but there's still a big bulb field here to tear into once I get it running right, so the dirt hawgs sound right up my alley.

Also for anyone reading this thread, I just checked, the dirt hawgs are cheaper on amazon, and if you have a prime membership like I do, you get free 2 day shipping on prime eligible items. :)
 
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My home-made-cotter-pin shock-to-shock-tower-connector did not hold.

I let my wife drive it, and she drove it around in circles, spun the tires a bit, but she didn't really open it up.

So I took the remote and said "No, you do it like this!"

I ramped the throttle and had it going nearly full speed, I tried to brake and make a light turn, but the tires were so bald they didn't hold the pavement well enough at that speed, it spun, hit the edge of the road and the lip of the grass, and proceeded to do endovers.

So my cotter pin came loose and the shock was on the ground, the neighbor kids were staring at it "I think you broke your car". So I guess i'm done playing until the screws get here.

bwwhahahahhaha

:hehe::hehe:
 
Hard to believe! You were bashing and something broke, ending the day?
I never heard of that ever happening to anyone else.
 
Schrode : Do you know what tires you're using for on-road? I'll probably be using those MOST to start with, but there's still a big bulb field here to tear into once I get it running right, so the dirt hawgs sound right up my alley.

Proline Speed Hawgs, they don't have the greatest traction though.....which could be a good thing, if you like to sling it around.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
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