So I bought a used nitro from a kid.

[Alan81]

So here I am... half my stuff has showed up. Friction pegs, some of the screws, gas cap rebuild....

And the bushings for the wheels. So I go to put them on and they don't work. I can't fit a bushing, the wheel, a bushing, a washer and a nut. It stops at 2 bushings, then no more threads.

So i'm thinking... did he give me all rear wheels?

Here's a picture. One I pulled off the front, and the other off the back.

:\

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/3f1c.jpg/

If so, I guess i'm wheel shopping now.

 

[SchrodeMode]

Take a picture of the front without the wheels on. He may have converted it to the E-Rustler front hubs. If he did, it's a good thing, you have more wheel options and you can rotate the tires as they get worn.

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[Alan81]

Take a picture of the front without the wheels on. He may have converted it to the E-Rustler front hubs. If he did, it's a good thing, you have more wheel options and you can rotate the tires as they get worn.

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Here ya go

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/qvzz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/ur32.jpg/

Headed over to the valley today where the closest LHS is, so I can pick up stuff if needed.

 

[Alan81]

Nevermind. D'oh. I assumed that the "front" wheels needed the hex bushing in there also to give a thicker surface for the bearing to ride on. Once I took that out everything fit fine. I'm assuming that is the way it's supposed to be? Do the front wheels have a recess for the hex bushing as well? I keep looking for pictures but I can only find pictures of the front of the wheels.


P.S. my carburetor showed up yesterday, so I should have this thing going up and down the street by sunday. <3

 

[jose.28]

That may be just like the jato 3.3 and if so you should have one bearing first then a spacer then slide the wheel on the spacer then a bearing and the nut. Is that what you have?

 

[Alan81]

That may be just like the jato 3.3 and if so you should have one bearing first then a spacer then slide the wheel on the spacer then a bearing and the nut. Is that what you have?

Actually I'm going by the exploded diagram for the nitro rustler...bearing, wheel, bearing, spacer, nut. It seems to work ok even though it's a tiny bit wobbly.

I'm more confused about the wheels. Since they all have the recessed hex in the back, does that mean they are rear wheels, or do front wheels come like that too?

 

[jose.28]

Actually I'm going by the exploded diagram for the nitro rustler...bearing, wheel, bearing, spacer, nut. It seems to work ok even though it's a tiny bit wobbly.

I'm more confused about the wheels. Since they all have the recessed hex in the back, does that mean they are rear wheels, or do front wheels come like that too?

That can't be. It has to be bearing/ spacer inside the wheel/ bearing/ nut.
The spacer looks like a small tube that just fits on the spindle .

---------- Post added at 3:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:34 PM ----------

Oh and the front wheels should not have a hex thing. They should be round so the bearing fits

 

[SchrodeMode]

Actually I'm going by the exploded diagram for the nitro rustler...bearing, wheel, bearing, spacer, nut. It seems to work ok even though it's a tiny bit wobbly.

I'm more confused about the wheels. Since they all have the recessed hex in the back, does that mean they are rear wheels, or do front wheels come like that too?

Post a pic of what you're talking about, I've never seen them with the hex and bearing space. As far a being wobbly, add an extra teflon washer (or 2). Then tighten the wheel nut down until they still spin freely, but don't wobble. I recommend having some spare nuts, maybe a sackfull , the nylon lock part gets worn and they fall off. It's also a must to use threadlock, it sucks when you have to end a day of bashing because of something stupid.

That can't be. It has to be bearing/ spacer inside the wheel/ bearing/ nut.
The spacer looks like a small tube that just fits on the spindle .

I've never run the metal spacer on my Rusty, they WERE on my Jato but I stopped running them after I lost them.

 

[jose.28]

Post a pic of what you're talking about, I've never seen them with the hex and bearing space. As far a being wobbly, add an extra teflon washer (or 2). Then tighten the wheel nut down until they still spin freely, but don't wobble. I recommend having some spare nuts, maybe a sackfull , the nylon lock part gets worn and they fall off. It's also a must to use threadlock, it sucks when you have to end a day of bashing because of something stupid.




I've never run the metal spacer on my Rusty, they WERE on my Jato but I stopped running them after I lost them.

Ugh to me the jato front tires are a pita.
I wish they where. Like the stampede fronts.
And you can run just the bearings with no spacer? I thought that would put pressure on the side of the bearings if i didnt put it back in.

 

[SchrodeMode]

Ugh to me the jato front tires are a pita.
I wish they where. Like the stampede fronts.
And you can run just the bearings with no spacer? I thought that would put pressure on the side of the bearings if i didnt put it back in.

Do the front hex mod, it'll allow you to run hex wheels on all four corners.

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[Alan81]

From an earlier post :

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/3f1c.jpg/

The wheel on the right came off of the front.

It had no bearings, just a hex bushing, and it was just sitting on the axle stub.

So what I did, was removed the hex bushing as there wasn't room for it, and put an oillite bushing on the inside and outside of the wheel as the diagram shows, and then the washer and the nut, and tightened until i felt resistance on the wheel and then backed it off.

I just have no idea what the inside of a front wheel is supposed to look like, so i'm stumped.

Here's the diagram i'm using.

http://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/021101-nitroRustler25-front_0.pdf

 

[Alan81]

I also discovered tonight that the rear shock tower (after getting the proper screws for it) is completely stripped where the shocks mount. Ugh. It even appears to be a carbon fiber or graphite. Bummer.

So, I understand the RPM shock tower is a good one, but is it plastic? I have concerns now about stripping out the threads in plastic stuff. I don't mind spending money on something that will last, but if there's a cheaper alternative, I don't mind going that route either.

Suggestions? (not integy?)

 

[SchrodeMode]

From an earlier post :

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/3f1c.jpg/

The wheel on the right came off of the front.

It had no bearings, just a hex bushing, and it was just sitting on the axle stub.

So what I did, was removed the hex bushing as there wasn't room for it, and put an oillite bushing on the inside and outside of the wheel as the diagram shows, and then the washer and the nut, and tightened until i felt resistance on the wheel and then backed it off.

I just have no idea what the inside of a front wheel is supposed to look like, so i'm stumped.

Here's the diagram i'm using.

http://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/021101-nitroRustler25-front_0.pdf

The inside of a front wheel looks just like the outside, it has an opening for a bearing.

I also discovered tonight that the rear shock tower (after getting the proper screws for it) is completely stripped where the shocks mount. Ugh. It even appears to be a carbon fiber or graphite. Bummer.

So, I understand the RPM shock tower is a good one, but is it plastic? I have concerns now about stripping out the threads in plastic stuff. I don't mind spending money on something that will last, but if there's a cheaper alternative, I don't mind going that route either.

Suggestions? (not integy?)

Get a longer screw, long enough to go through the shock tower, and use a nut on the other side.

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[Alan81]

Get a longer screw, long enough to go through the shock tower, and use a nut on the other side.

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Since the hole in the shock is much bigger than the hole for the screw, won't this allow for a lot of slop and movement in the shock?

 

[SchrodeMode]

Since the hole in the shock is much bigger than the hole for the screw, won't this allow for a lot of slop and movement in the shock?

Yeah, I forgot that I had changed my shocks to Losi's. What about some scrap fuel line, is it thick enough to fill the space?

 

[Alan81]

Yeah, I forgot that I had changed my shocks to Losi's. What about some scrap fuel line, is it thick enough to fill the space?

No, not really.

Do you think I could drill the holes bigger and use a tap to thread them?

Maybe better off to just drill bigger and use a bolt the same size as the shock mounting hole, and and thread a nut on the end of it.

I've never tried tapping threads into CF or graphite.

:whhooo:

 

[SchrodeMode]

I'd just grab RPM towers, make sure you don't over tighten the screws.

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[Alan81]

I'd just grab RPM towers, make sure you don't over tighten the screws.

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That sounds like a good plan.

I went ahead and drilled the holes bigger last night and put in bigger bolts. I think that's going to work well until I can get the rpm tower coming. Gonna fire it up today and see how the new carb does. I will report back.

 

[SchrodeMode]

That sounds like a good plan.

I went ahead and drilled the holes bigger last night and put in bigger bolts. I think that's going to work well until I can get the rpm tower coming. Gonna fire it up today and see how the new carb does. I will report back.

Cool man, I'd grab the RPM towers and just keep them as spare until these break.

 

[Alan81]

Just for fun, here's some pictures.

I double nutted the shock tower so that the shock wasn't bolted tightly to it and still was able to move a little.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/og0t.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/n4qb.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/sqot.jpg/

I'm going to take a dremel wheel to it later on to get rid of the excess weight.

Moving further down the chassis, I notice some of the wheel slop is coming from the steering bellcrank. I tried to tighten the screws and realized they were bottomed out. Bushings and ptfe washers are missing. In the cart along with a set of cheap wheels.