Used Mayako advice

[k4o5sfc72]

Hi peeps… I have just bought a Mayako mx8 2022.It almost has all the upgrades. I’m thinking of checking the diffs. Is this a good place to start for wear and replace oils and grease if needed + diff gear ?

 

[hood52]

I would change all the diff and shock fluids, along with checking all the bearings.

 

[RustyUs]

How comfortable are you with the seller and their maintenance program? Used RCs... a full tear down is a must to be 100% sure things are what (and where) they are supposed to be. Plus, gives you a chance to setup the platform back to box stock recommended starting point.

 

[Littlemotor]

Trust no one. Change it all.

 

[Ramp addict]

They say repetition is good for a developing mind.
If you're not the last person to take it apart don't trust the work that's been done. That applies to all used trucks.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Trust no one. Change it all.

Spoken like a man who wears a 1 size too tight tinfoil hat!

 

[Littlemotor]

Spoken like a man who wears a 1 size too tight tinfoil hat!

Just been at it for a long time with 1/8 off-road..

The number one reason to go through the diffs in a new vehicle has nothing at all really to do with the work ethic, or ability of the previous owner, but because it needs to be set up for YOUR intended driving surface, and driving style.. I typically go with the manual build setup, and make my changes from there after driving for an hour or so to see what actually needs to be done..

 

[CertifiedMike]

Just been at it for a long time with 1/8 off-road..

The number one reason to go through the diffs in a new vehicle has nothing at all really to do with the work ethic, or ability of the previous owner, but because it needs to be set up for YOUR intended driving surface, and driving style.. I typically go with the manual build setup, and make my changes from there after driving for an hour or so to see what actually needs to be done..

You know they make tinfoil hats with a FPV cam hole now??? For the tech savy, paranoid content maker!!!

Just sayin'

I agree. It would be a mistake to not inspect every inch of any used rc. I don't care if somone bought it from a best buddy, known history...

Learn your (new) used car! Be sure that you know the sh!t that happened... cuz it happens!

 

[Littlemotor]

You know they make tinfoil hats with a FPV cam hole now??? For the tech savy, paranoid content maker!!!

Just sayin'

I agree. It would be a mistake to not inspect every inch of any used rc. I don't care if somone bought it from a best buddy, known history...

Learn your (new) used car! Be sure that you know the sh!t that happened... cuz it happens!

Facts. Eleventybillion%.

 

[k4o5sfc72]

Thanks for all the replies peeps. I do intend to add new ti bolts to the menu. And probably change all diffs, just to be safe. Their not to expensive to replace.
I've also got an Agama N1 kit to start lol.

 

[Littlemotor]

I’d advise AGAINST titanium hardware. Diffs aren’t a suggestion, they are a MUST, and requirement based on your track surface, and driving style.

 

[k4o5sfc72]

I’d advise AGAINST titanium hardware. Diffs aren’t a suggestion, they are a MUST, and requirement based on your track surface, and driving style.

What’s wrong with using titanium hardware? Is it because it’s to hard that there is no give.

 

[Littlemotor]

What’s wrong with using titanium hardware? Is it because it’s to hard that there is no give.

The opposite. People run it for a number of reasons; typically #1-because it’s LIGHT.. However, this is only true to a degree. It’s only lighter than a steel part of the same SIZE. It is NOT as strong as a steel part that is the same size. The part must be bigger in order to be stronger. -and a QUALITY Ti part will “flex” when it takes a hit, where as carbon steel will stay bent.

#2, because people are misinformed that it’s HARDER. Again-it is NOT. Most titanium alloy parts that are available/typical in RC (or most any other Motorsports), are UP TO grade 5. This is usually a DOWNGRADE for most steel parts that they’d be replacing. This is the exact reason why stainless steel is a pisspoor option as well, in 1/8 off-road RC.

People hear exotic material names in RC, and simply ASSUME they’re a better choice because of said NAME-and ludicrously higher cost.. arguably the single biggest misconception in the hobby.

I personally only run grade 12.9 fasteners. They are FAR superior strength-wise to any Ti-6Al-4V, or SS fastener you’ll find offered in the hobby. Weight-wise is negligible IMO, as yes; the Ti is lighter, but at the expense of both shear strength, and hardness. I ALWAYS run Ti turnbuckles because of their ability to hold their shape after a hard hit.

If you absolutely must run Ti hardware, it’s the smart move to ONLY run it ABOVE the chassis, where it will not see so much wear, or require as much strength.. It’s really only a “bling factor” IMO, as the very minor weight savings is not even close to beneficial in 1/8 off-road RC, where literally EVERY vehicle is GROSSLY overpowered already..

Some folks do complain about black oxide 12.9 hardware showing surface rust, but anyone that knows anything at all about routine vehicle maintenance, understands that your vehicle should ALWAYS have a thin coating of your favorite oil, or water displacement solution applied, then blown off after about 20min between runs, and after clean up.

 

[Lumikko]

a QUALITY Ti part will “flex” when it takes a hit, where as carbon steel will stay bent.

This is true, if the strain is equal for both materials i.e. they have been bent the same amount and it exceeds steel's limit of elastic deformation.

The modulus of elasticity for steel is roughly twice as high as for titanium, so for the same dimensions and load while staying in the elastic region, titanium will bend more than steel and both materials spring back.

If the hit is strong enough to exceed the yield strength of a steel part and cause a plastic deformation (=stays bent), it will probably bend the titanium part as well. Of course, high-grade titanium parts can meet or even exceed the yield strength of carbon steel parts.

I suspect the failure mode of turnbuckles is buckling, where the lower Young's modulus of titanium makes it much more susceptible to damage in the first place. The stiffness of steel helps a lot when it comes to resisting compressive loads. I suspect one of the reasons why 1/10 off-road buggies went to 3.5 mm turnbuckles is because people kept bending their expensive titanium turnbuckles.

But yeah, I completely agree with your point. Titanium isn't the magic material people think it is, and very often you are better off with 12.9 steel bolts. Especially the bottom of the chassis is not really the place to remove weight. And the same "it's not the upgrade you think it is" goes for stainless steel hardware as well.