SCX24 Upgrades - or is it down grades?

[Jerold]

My second stock SCX24 motor burnt out and decided to up grade to Furitek. I had already ditched the factory ESC/Receiver for the Furitek Lizard and the FlySky GT5. So this was just motor. At the same time I was sick of the extra crappy factory friction shocks and installed the Injora "Oil Dampers".

I need some help with the layout of electronics
The motor is the Furitek Micro Komodo. It's a tiny brushed outrunner motor. The only downside is that it mounts backwards and had to do some rearranging. I cut the corner of the forward tray to make room. Then put the ESC on the other side and the Bluetooth module vertically on the forward lip. The BS6 receiver got put on the servo.

I thought I was pretty clever with this setup, but found out when the wires are plugged into the receiver, they hit the body and limit the front axle travel.

If you have thoughts on the layout please let me know.

Not sure I like these shocks
The shocks are good quality and a good price. In the end the do work well. However, they are longer than the original shocks, the are tedious to assemble and there was no oil in them.

The longer shock length raised the height of the model, which is not desired.

There are no instructions in the package and assembly is a bit fiddly. You need to put one O-Ring on the brass fitting. Note there is a larger side that goes first. Then put the brass fitting into the shock and add the second O-ring to the second (smaller) side.

Then putting them on the model you need to sort the longer screws and use them on the top with the larger spacer. Then use the shorter screws with the smaller spacer on the bottom.

Looking at the Amazon listing it does say that you don't want to fill the shocks with oil, just add a little bit. So I may need to readdress this.

But until then the 80's called and they want their 4wd back.

 

[Tunedfrog]

I'm confused, isn't the Komodo a brushless motor?

 

[Doom!]

Not having one in front of me at the moment, Is there room to flip the receiver up on edge?

On my Injora oil shocks, I used a couple of drops of light machine oil (kind of like sewing machine oil) and it seems to work well. Also be careful not to over tighten the connection points or it will restrict movement also. I had to loosen mine just a bit because I had them a tad too tight

My second stock SCX24 motor burnt out and decided to up grade to Furitek. I had already ditched the factory ESC/Receiver for the Furitek Lizard and the FlySky GT5. So this was just motor. At the same time I was sick of the extra crappy factory friction shocks and installed the Injora "Oil Dampers".

I need some help with the layout of electronics
The motor is the Furitek Micro Komodo. It's a tiny brushed outrunner motor. The only downside is that it mounts backwards and had to do some rearranging. I cut the corner of the forward tray to make room. Then put the ESC on the other side and the Bluetooth module vertically on the forward lip. The BS6 receiver got put on the servo.
View attachment 175739

I thought I was pretty clever with this setup, but found out when the wires are plugged into the receiver, they hit the body and limit the front axle travel.

If you have thoughts on the layout please let me know.

Not sure I like these shocks
The shocks are good quality and a good price. In the end the do work well. However, they are longer than the original shocks, the are tedious to assemble and there was no oil in them.

The longer shock length raised the height of the model, which is not desired.

There are no instructions in the package and assembly is a bit fiddly. You need to put one O-Ring on the brass fitting. Note there is a larger side that goes first. Then put the brass fitting into the shock and add the second O-ring to the second (smaller) side.

Then putting them on the model you need to sort the longer screws and use them on the top with the larger spacer. Then use the shorter screws with the smaller spacer on the bottom.

Looking at the Amazon listing it does say that you don't want to fill the shocks with oil, just add a little bit. So I may need to readdress this.
View attachment 175741

But until then the 80's called and they want their 4wd back.
View attachment 175740

 

[Jerold]

I'm confused, isn't the Komodo a brushless motor?

Sorry you are correct, it's a brushless setup.

Not having one in front of me at the moment, Is there room to flip the receiver up on edge?

On my Injora oil shocks, I used a couple of drops of light machine oil (kind of like sewing machine oil) and it seems to work well. Also be careful not to over tighten the connection points or it will restrict movement also. I had to loosen mine just a bit because I had them a tad too tight

The receive placed on edge on the servo won't work, it's wider than tall. I might be able to put the receiver on the front mounting plate on edge. The ESC gets stuck on the side of the frame or something like that.

 

[Doom!]

Sorry you are correct, it's a brushless setup.


The receive placed on edge on the servo won't work, it's wider than tall. I might be able to put the receiver on the front mounting plate on edge. The ESC gets stuck on the side of the frame or something like that.

Gotcha, I haven't payed attention to the insides for a while. I know I reversed the battery and electronics position on one, let me go find it.

Found it, don't know if this will help any, but might give you some ideas. This was a Deadbolt chassis I modified for my Chevy C10 pickup truck. It's been a while sice I did this so I need to try and remember what I did.

Moved battery all the way forward an rotated it 90°. Removed the battery tray and snugged the receiver/esc between the rails (snug but fits) and zip tied it in place. This was stock electronics so don't know how yours will fit. I obviously need to tidy up some wires.

 

[Jerold]

I think I've got a solution but I'm still not impressed with the Injora shocks.

With the RX mounted on the servo the wires were not only bottoming out on the body, but the RX was shooting the gap between the frame rails and preventing any flex up front.

With the new configuration, it's going to be a bit lopsided, but it all fits and seems to flex OK. I moved the RX to the forward plate and placed the connectors towards the rear, where the cab is. It double sided tape to the flat mount but only about 1/2 of it.

The ESC and BT module are stuck to the RX. It's a small model and figure (hoping) the loading should be pretty small.

For the shocks, I drained all the oil, so it just has a good coating. They do give more than before, but they are 2-3mm longer than stock. So it's more of a lift kit than an long travel kit. I'd like to get the CG down.

Sounds like more money going that way.

 

[WickedFog]

I have played around with smaller RC's quite a bit. I don't think anything smaller than 1/18 needs actual oil shocks. You can't scale oil viscosity down to the point that it works properly. The stock shocks are great if you get the chassis weight (sprung weight) just right. These are completely stock shocks with springs still installed in this video.

You need droop for these little trucks to function well over obstacles. All the aftermarket shocks I have seen have springs that are way too stiff for that.