Savage x differential gone?

[alpinestars199]

I was runing my truck today doing backflips and all of a sudden I heard a clicking noise coming from the rear diff. I opened it up and there's pieces of metal all over the rear diff case, think its no good? Ik its the diff cause i checked Tue transmission and front diffs and they were fine

 

[MudSlinger33]

I told you so. Yep, your ring and pinion are toast. Before you reassemble everything, add a couple shims on the pinion until there is no play. Do the same to the front.

 

[alpinestars199]

front ones staring to go to lol but can anyone or mudslinger^ post a website where I can get the shims and also how to do it I've never shimmed diffs before so that's the one thing I don't know:/

 

[Assassin]

This is a Savage Flux/XL BP Diff pinion

This was done with Nitro, poop happens.

Diffs need to be shimmed up right from the start, even BP Diffs

---------- Post added at 5:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:02 PM ----------

front ones staring to go to lol but can anyone or mudslinger^ post a website where I can get the shims and also how to do it I've never shimmed diffs before so that's the one thing I don't know:/

Still got your manual? It will give you the details on the shims you need. Might be a good idea to read through it all, go over the diff rebuild section well.

You need to add shims until you have a good mesh and no side play, but not too tight, no binding.

 

[MudSlinger33]

I think the perfect mesh on mine was using 2 shims front and back.

 

[alpinestars199]

Ok guys so I been reading around and I get what to so but 1 question how!!! Do I get the screws holding the diff together out on the the ring gear???

 

[MudSlinger33]

They come assembled with loctite and can be very hard to break loose the first time. If you haven't already stripped the screws you can try putting the bevel gear in a vise and clamp it down, then you can use a drill to break em loose.

 

[TRXaddict]

Hope this helps you looked around on google and saw this http://ashburg.com/?p=388

 

[alpinestars199]

Ya I did see that and I understand what to do now the only thing is I cannot find what size shims I need? Also where to buy shims

 

[Assassin]

Ya I did see that and I understand what to do now the only thing is I cannot find what size shims I need? Also where to buy shims

Manual or online PDF manual

 

[TaterX]

Why not just get the Flux/XL diffs front and rear and have the BP upgrade for $60-$70.
My 2 cent

 

[alpinestars199]

Why not just get the Flux/XL diffs front and rear and have the BP upgrade for $60-$70. My 2 cent

You guys think that^ would be my best bet

---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 AM ----------

I guess ill get the bulletproof diffs. They still need to be shimmed right?

 

[MudSlinger33]

Yes BP's need to be shimmed also. No real reason IMO to spend 80-90 bucks on BP's, if you correctly shim the stock diffs you will have no issues.

 

[TaterX]

Pretty sure they come shimmed but i would check for slop any way. Shims are cheap and good to have on hand so buy a few and some silicone diff fluid because I'm think they are greased could be wrong though. That would solve the problem and you be in a total of around $85 shipped.
Bp's have hardened steel gears that are better machined parts out of better material. It worth the money as long as you keep good bearings on the diffs and pinion no worries. There is a reason these are in the flux.

 

[Assassin]

Yes BP's need to be shimmed also. No real reason IMO to spend 80-90 bucks on BP's, if you correctly shim the stock diffs you will have no issues.

x2 Set up right works.

I also found plastic bulks have slight flex and if not shimmed right a bad landing will cause the pinion and ring gear to get out of mesh and this causes most diff failures. BP Diffs are stronger & more resilient to breaking under these conditions, but will still break.

I decided to run some test, and I have been pounding the crap out of the STD diff with alloy case (Not BP from XL or 2011X or Flux) inside a alloy bulkhead with a sloppy mesh. I'm running the mesh on the verge of disaster. It is just barely tight enough to run perfectly. IF there is any flex the mesh will move out & surely destroy the pinion.

Still running strong. My conclusion. Shimmed right and in a alloy bulkhead, is the way to BP your diffs.

If done right, STD with alloy case is enough, but 2011 BP is a step up still, and then Flux/XL Diffs is almost overkill.

Then there is always the CEN Diff option. These have the strongest spider gears out of all of them, the HPI BP Diffs IMO are modeled after the CEN diffs. The only problem is getting the pinion shimmed in place right, this is critical and actually a PITA since the pinion uses only a grub screw and flat edge to secure the pinion. Done right, IMO the best Diffs for a Savage Period.

 

[alpinestars199]

I have the diff apart to replace the ring gear (ordering today) and I can't figure out how to get apart the ring gear so I can replace it?

 

[Assassin]

I have the diff apart to replace the ring gear (ordering today) and I can't figure out how to get apart the ring gear so I can replace it?

What are you having trouble with?

The ring gear unscrews from the case, then inside there is a spider & pin, remove them and pull out the drive cup and shaft.

 

[alpinestars199]

How do I get the ring gear off I have the diff apart but it dosent seem to come off I'm looking at the exploded view in my manual

---------- Post added at 1:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:02 PM ----------

Opps sorry didn't mean to post that again

 

[alpinestars199]

Thats the problem the drive cup won't pull out

 

[TaterX]

If the screws are out and it wont come apart then the gasket/spacer is stuck to the ring gear and also to the diff cup. Try lightly tapping the ringer gear on the gear side with a small piece of would or the rubber handle of a tool just not anything that would damage the teeth.