Revo 5310 Rebuild/Refresh?

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olds97_lss

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Those videos were all the 3.3... and not hitting throttle at all.
Is this the idle gap? View attachment 119782

what is the best way to see if piston/sleeve is worn out?
I mentioned a couple posts back how to check the piston/sleeve for pinch (that's for checking if it's worn out):

You could try taking the piston/sleeve out and check the pinch. Might just be wore out and your getting a lot of blow by when it's running.

If you can easily push the top of the piston out of the sleeve, the pinch is likely pretty bad and only gets worse when the sleeve warms up and expands.
 

D3MON

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Those videos were all the 3.3... and not hitting throttle at all.
Is this the idle gap? View attachment 119782

what is the best way to see if piston/sleeve is worn out?
ahh saw it didnt have the head protector so though twas the 2.5.
yes that is the idle gap, that looks more or less about right where it sits, and @olds97_lss on the previous page had a good explanation of how to check the wear on the piston/sleeve, pop them out and see how far you can push (do not force, just give it a bit of pressure) the piston into the sleeve. make sure the piston is close to the correct orientation of how it was when you took it out. i.e. intake cut out in piston is pointed towards the intake ports of the sleeve. (these are mass produced and not all the time perfectly round.)
 

olds97_lss

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ahh saw it didnt have the head protector so though twas the 2.5.
yes that is the idle gap, that looks more or less about right where it sits, and @olds97_lss on the previous page had a good explanation of how to check the wear on the piston/sleeve, pop them out and see how far you can push (do not force, just give it a bit of pressure) the piston into the sleeve. make sure the piston is close to the correct orientation of how it was when you took it out. i.e. intake cut out in piston is pointed towards the intake ports of the sleeve. (these are mass produced and not all the time perfectly round.)
Yeah, I just cleaned the top of the piston with DA, then put a line on it with a permanent marker to line it with the sleeve pin.

If it is worn out, for the cost of a piston/sleeve (and when replacing that you should do the con-rod), you will likely not be far from the cost of a new 3.3, which will also have a new carb, new bearings, new crank journal... etc.
 

D3MON

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Yeah, I just cleaned the top of the piston with DA, then put a line on it with a permanent marker to line it with the sleeve pin.

If it is worn out, for the cost of a piston/sleeve (and when replacing that you should do the con-rod), you will likely not be far from the cost of a new 3.3, which will also have a new carb, new bearings, new crank journal... etc.
if you do go for an engine replacement, i would also look into a dynamite .19 mach 2, they are right around 110$ and i hear many many good things about them. i have heard that the factory LSN settings are a bit lean though and should be adjusted (i can't recall what the correct ones are but I'm sure google can help you along, if not i might be able to track down where i saw that.)
if you are wanting to stay traxxas, i think they are still doing the engine replacement program to knock off some cost.
 

drivinggun

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You could try taking the piston/sleeve out and check the pinch. Might just be wore out and your getting a lot of blow by when it's running.

If you can easily push the top of the piston out of the sleeve, the pinch is likely pretty bad and only gets worse when the sleeve warms up and expands.
Here is a photo of putting slight pressure on piston....
119783
 

drivinggun

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had an engine doing this, piston/sleeve were worn out. ran strong until it would die after about 3-6 minutes then would try stalling and dying then wouldnt restart until it cooled off all the way. is a chance you may be able to get them re-pinched.

the 2.5 engine, to me it sounds in the first video the idle is racing then on the bottom one it sounds like it is running rich and stalling out. what does your idle gap look like? was it changed between the two videos or where you giving it throttle at all in the first and or second video?
how hot is the engine getting? playing with the throttle, can you keep the truck running?

*if you are at factory settings* the mixture should be very rich, try leaning the HSN about 1/8-1/4 turn, see if that helps. remember to run some WOT passes between needle adjustments to clear out the Crankcase.
 

drivinggun

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Here are the photos (sorry if I take too many of them)of the engine taken apart as far as I could today...are those burn marks on the sleeve normal??
119784
119785
119786
119787
119788
119789
119790
119791
 

cbaker65

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That almost goes plum through the sleeve!.....🤔

When you first start the engine it will heat up ,then wants it heats up ,it wont run ,that is an indication that it has
no more compression ,as when it heats up ,the metals change!
 

D3MON

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Here are the photos (sorry if I take too many of them)of the engine taken apart as far as I could today...are those burn marks on the sleeve normal??
View attachment 119784View attachment 119785View attachment 119786View attachment 119787View attachment 119788View attachment 119789View attachment 119790View attachment 119791
Lol can never have too many pictures.
much as i hate to be the bearer of bad news, that piston/sleeve to me looks about done for, as far as the pinch. once the sleeve warms up the piston will be free to go up even further increasing clearances between the sleeve and piston thus loosing compression that much more.
as far as the burn marks, that seems to be on the more high side of normal to me. usually see them, but that i have seen not quite to that extent.
 

cbaker65

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So you saw my video.....lol......I forgot to mention a bearing was messed up on the clutch bell, I have ordered new ones they are the metal type...do I need to grease those?
The clutch does not have nothing to do with this matter ,but no ,I wouldnt think that you need to grease any bearings!

If you insist on trying to keep this engine ,the alternative route that you can go ,is to have the sleeve repinched ,an
if all else fails ,you only lose 20 or 30 bucks!
I had an engine repinched ,an it still runs good to this day!
 

drivinggun

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Lol can never have too many pictures.
much as i hate to be the bearer of bad news, that piston/sleeve to me looks about done for, as far as the pinch. once the sleeve warms up the piston will be free to go up even further increasing clearances between the sleeve and piston thus loosing compression that much more.
as far as the burn marks, that seems to be on the more high side of normal to me. usually see them, but that i have seen not quite to that extent.
Thanks, for my next trick I will take apart the 2.5 and see what that looks like now that I have more knowledge.....:)
 

drivinggun

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The clutch does not have nothing to do with this matter ,but no ,I wouldnt think that you need to grease any bearings!

If you insist on trying to keep this engine ,the alternative route that you can go ,is to have the sleeve repinched ,an
if all else fails ,you only lose 20 or 30 bucks!
I had an engine repinched ,an it still runs good to this day!
Thanks wasn't sure about grease someone online mentioned servicing them more often than the rubber sealed ones that's all. gonna disassemble the 2.5 and if that is in the same condition I will either do the swap of the 2.5 to 3.3 upgrade thru Traxxas or get the Dynamite Mach 2 that someone mentioned and still try to get the 3.3 repinched have to find somewhere to do that tho.
 

cbaker65

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Thanks wasn't sure about grease someone online mentioned servicing them more often than the rubber sealed ones that's all. gonna disassemble the 2.5 and if that is in the same condition I will either do the swap of the 2.5 to 3.3 upgrade thru Traxxas or get the Dynamite Mach 2 that someone mentioned and still try to get the 3.3 repinched have to find somewhere to do that tho.
Here is a link ,that is if your pist/sleeve is not scared or damaged!

http://www.rayaracing.com/
 

drivinggun

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I received the spring mount for the exhaust and decided to throw the Original 2.5 (15 years old) in it just to see what would happen. I also noticed even though the Tank seemed sealed I saw a little moisture around the cap so I changed the O-ring and when I mentioned the messed up bearing on the bell it was actually in pieces so I replaced those as well...apparently the bell should not rattle, well it doesn't now...HA...I can't do any more testing today but will hopefully soon .....and this was the result. I have learned so much in the past week Thanks to all of you....I even noticed the exhaust pressure return.....
 

drivinggun

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Today I let it warm up and then got it into my yard with help from the wife...ha....(it is too much for me to carry with the controller and starter on my own I forgot to mention I am in a wheelchair so I always have to wait for help when I want to run it) It ran for a bit probably a total of 5 minutes I never went full throttle but then it obviously overheats and I will have to wait a while to run it again. Sorry for the long video I do not know how to edit them yet....And don't pick on my Dog (Peanut Butter)....HA
 

cbaker65

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Today I let it warm up and then got it into my yard with help from the wife...ha....(it is too much for me to carry with the controller and starter on my own I forgot to mention I am in a wheelchair so I always have to wait for help when I want to run it) It ran for a bit probably a total of 5 minutes I never went full throttle but then it obviously overheats and I will have to wait a while to run it again. Sorry for the long video I do not know how to edit them yet....And don't pick on my Dog (Peanut Butter)....HA
No ,it is not right!

Your engine is running fine ,the clutch or something is slipping very badly causing the engine to over rev causing the
heating problem ,you should not keep running it like that!....
 

drivinggun

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No ,it is not right!

Your engine is running fine ,the clutch or something is slipping very badly causing the engine to over rev causing the
heating problem ,you should not keep running it like that!....
I won't, In fact went out this morning to adjust the slipper (not mine) the trucks...HA....engine cranks but will not start even with new glow plug the light on my starter indicated glow plug not igniting....:-(, So another time I will remove engine and check it for any damage that might have been caused by yesterdays "run"
 

olds97_lss

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Running it that long with it slipping that bad likely burned up whatever it was that was slipping. Either the clutch shoes or more likely, the slipper clutch. The revo slipper used to be a bit of a pain to get right as they used 2 Belleville washers facing each other instead of a spring and the adjustment is very minimal from too loose to too tight and smashed washers that no longer act like a spring. I can't recall if they changed to a more traditional spring or not... been a minute or two since I looked at my nitro revos.

My ERBEv1 had a normal spring and a brushless slipper takes far more abuse than any nitro slipper considering the torque a brushless system makes. Not sure why they had the nitro revo with the Belleville washers.
 

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