Revo 5310 Rebuild/Refresh?

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It does have more take off power ,an is way better then what it was!

That maybe in the Lsn setting from idle to full throttle ,try a 1/4 turn in or out ,just make sure you take notes of your turns
so you can put it back if either way doesn't work!

I had that issue a couple of times on my rides ,an it was an LSN tune issue!...:cool:
 
@cbaker65 and @olds97_lss So today I was able to take it to a park and ran a solid 8 minutes after warming it up then it died and would not restart....read the temperature it was about 228 F give or take I have not learned how to save high and low reading yet...

 
Personally, I never cared for the ez-start glow heating. I found that using a proper heater worked best. The ezstart spins the engine over and sprays fuel around before the glow plug is heated up. So I'd usually remove the blue wire and use a heater instead. Then I'd let it warm up for about 5 seconds before hitting the ezstart button. Once running, blip the throttle a couple times, then remove the heater.

Would have been nice if traxxas had made the ezstart have a 2 stage button. First stages starts the warmer, second turns the engine over.

228 shouldn't be too hot, that's actually on the cold side, but if your not really able to get it to open up and drive it, it may not get that warm yet. Not sure why it isn't firing for you.
 
olds97_lss said:
Personally, I never cared for the ez-start glow heating. I found that using a proper heater worked best. The ezstart spins the engine over and sprays fuel around before the glow plug is heated up. So I'd usually remove the blue wire and use a heater instead. Then I'd let it warm up for about 5 seconds before hitting the ezstart button. Once running, blip the throttle a couple times, then remove the heater.

Would have been nice if traxxas had made the ezstart have a 2 stage button. First stages starts the warmer, second turns the engine over.

228 shouldn't be too hot, that's actually on the cold side, but if your not really able to get it to open up and drive it, it may not get that warm yet. Not sure why it isn't firing for you.
Click to expand...
Can you link me a good one to buy PLEASE.......:cool:...there are way too many options for my brain to handle right now......I love the smell of NITRO!!
 
I use one that uses AA sized cells, then you can use any rechargeable AA in it. It also fits in the pocket nicer.
https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Ignitor-Igniter-Starter-Monster/dp/B075LM3BJ4

I usually use energizer precharged (LSD) type NiMH cells in mine. Once cell can typically get me through an entire break-in day, but I always have a spare one charged in my pit bag whenever I run nitro.

I don't know that it will fix your current "can't start" issue, but it will at least rule out the glow plug not warming enough. Although, there isn't anything on it to tell you if/when the plug is bad.

This one is supposed to have an LED or something on it telling you, it has a built in lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Driver-Battery-Charger-DYN1926/dp/B003O7IGC0

Downside with that one is that once it's dead, you can't just throw another battery in it. You have to wait for it to charge.

The ones with meters never worked that great for me.

If I question a plug being bad, I just take it out, put it in the heater and cup my hand around it to see if it's glowing orange or not.
 
olds97_lss said:
I use one that uses AA sized cells, then you can use any rechargeable AA in it. It also fits in the pocket nicer.
https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Ignitor-Igniter-Starter-Monster/dp/B075LM3BJ4

I usually use energizer precharged (LSD) type NiMH cells in mine. Once cell can typically get me through an entire break-in day, but I always have a spare one charged in my pit bag whenever I run nitro.

I don't know that it will fix your current "can't start" issue, but it will at least rule out the glow plug not warming enough. Although, there isn't anything on it to tell you if/when the plug is bad.

This one is supposed to have an LED or something on it telling you, it has a built in lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Driver-Battery-Charger-DYN1926/dp/B003O7IGC0

Downside with that one is that once it's dead, you can't just throw another battery in it. You have to wait for it to charge.

The ones with meters never worked that great for me.

If I question a plug being bad, I just take it out, put it in the heater and cup my hand around it to see if it's glowing orange or not.
Click to expand...

I been wanting to try out those AA ones ,my metered ones are old an broken down ,they do mess up on
the meter after a while to were you have to fiddle with it to get it to work!

Thank for that info!.... :thumbs-up:
 
I have two of them, just to keep them both charged. I had a twist-lock one for a few years, but those tend to not hold on after a while, then your spending your time fighting with the stupid heater. So I replaced it with a second spring/clamp one.

I liked the twist lock one though as it would lay flat in your pocket and not dig into your leg as you walk around.
 
olds97_lss said:
I use one that uses AA sized cells, then you can use any rechargeable AA in it. It also fits in the pocket nicer.
https://www.amazon.com/ShareGoo-Ignitor-Igniter-Starter-Monster/dp/B075LM3BJ4

I usually use energizer precharged (LSD) type NiMH cells in mine. Once cell can typically get me through an entire break-in day, but I always have a spare one charged in my pit bag whenever I run nitro.

I don't know that it will fix your current "can't start" issue, but it will at least rule out the glow plug not warming enough. Although, there isn't anything on it to tell you if/when the plug is bad.

This one is supposed to have an LED or something on it telling you, it has a built in lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/Dynamite-Driver-Battery-Charger-DYN1926/dp/B003O7IGC0

Downside with that one is that once it's dead, you can't just throw another battery in it. You have to wait for it to charge.

The ones with meters never worked that great for me.

If I question a plug being bad, I just take it out, put it in the heater and cup my hand around it to see if it's glowing orange or not.
Click to expand...
I was looking at this as an option?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00681Q...olid=107QGWEUE0HYC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
Would work fine. Could get a couple extra sub-c's to charge as well so you don't have to wait. That charger is 250mah, so will take 10 hours to charge the battery it comes with. 15 hours to charge the ones I linked. There are probably better ones out there, but they showed up first when I searched on amazon. The rest have soldering tabs on them.
 
This is only part of Sunday Fun Day with my Grandkids.... I added cheap LED headlights and they got destroyed what a fantastic day we had.


I have more to upload but I am trying to learn how to merge them together into one better looking video we burned a tank and a half of fuel that day....more to come... @cbaker65 @olds97_lss @D3MON
 
Still isn't shifting I don't think. I'm not hearing it anyway. Would have expected it to drop into second at some point before you plowed into the bicycle. Probably good that it didn't or you would have hit it harder! lol!

There's free software you can use to edit relatively simple videos, I used an older version of windows movie maker when I started:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/movie-maker-10-free/9mvfq4lmz6c9?activetab=pivot:overviewtab

I used the older version, Movie Maker 2012. I think you can still get it here:
https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/windows_movie_maker.html

I've since bought Cyberlink PowerDirector 16 because I wanted to do picture in picture with 2 cameras. I haven't bothered upgrading to a newer version as it does what I need. It also down converts high res video to something more manageable while editing, then when you build the output file, it uses the original source. MM2012 didn't work that great with 120FPS 1080p video. It was fine with 60FPS 1080p though. PD16 works with it much better after it downconverts for editing, you just have to import and wait for it to down covert before you start editing.
 
hey sorry havent really been keeping up well on the status, been quite busy with other things. glad you got the slipper set up correctly now, and tune sounds good! maybe a bit rich as said though.
windows actually has a pretty decent built in one with windows 10, go to "photos" app, then on the top bar there is an option for "video editor".
worked pretty well when i was playing around with it.
it is a very definite sound when you shift and i agree with @olds97_lss that I'm not hearing it shifting.
once you get her running and in a good tune, i would slowly loosen the shift grub screw 1/4 turn at a time, do some speed runs, then repeat as necessary. at WOT should shift somewhere between 15-25 ft from start point is what i think the manual says.
i know my MGT trucks are around 6 turns out from snug with the shift grub screw, but completely different model/animal.
definitely like seeing the videos!!
 

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