returning to RC racing (offroad electric)

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Can someone point me to instructions for putting a gear diff together it seems the kit only explains the ball diff
 
I managed to get it together with the guide I found googling which isn't this model but it was mostly the same except the first larger shim you only put one instead of two becYse it only comes with two that size. Easy enough to figure out .

I need to buy some CST diff fluid. Dunno should I buy 60000 or 100000 what's the difference? Thanks in advance.

Is there any suggestions on pinion sizes to buy any motor recommendations for a 13.5t race motor ?


I scored a Tekin RS gen2 on eBay last night it will be here by Tuesday. I'll keep an eye out for a hotwire
 

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Trinity REV1101
grabbed one of these and one of those Zeee batteries from amazon the motor should arrive by 11th but stuff seems to always come sooner
 
btw -

This is a 4cc tube of Team Associated Stealth differential lube. Team Associated spent countless hours developing this diff lube for their Stealth Transmission. This silicone based diff lube is used on the 3/32" carbide diff balls that fit inside the main diff gear, and can be used in any ball differential.

thats the description of that diff lube and this isnt a ball diff, so I'm hoping since i ddint rub that stuff in i can just swab it off and then get the proper stuff ordered up once someone chimes in ;)
 
btw -

This is a 4cc tube of Team Associated Stealth differential lube. Team Associated spent countless hours developing this diff lube for their Stealth Transmission. This silicone based diff lube is used on the 3/32" carbide diff balls that fit inside the main diff gear, and can be used in any ball differential.

thats the description of that diff lube and this isnt a ball diff, so I'm hoping since i ddint rub that stuff in i can just swab it off and then get the proper stuff ordered up once someone chimes in ;)
i really have no clue what to say for diff oil, i know associated is good about sharing set-up sheets, dont know if there is one with ball diff oil recommendations, as it seems alot run the ball diff. definitely going to take some experimenting, i know most of the rigs people say to use 10k in the rear, but this is also for 4wd. hope you get it figured out, been following your build lol.
 
I managed to get it together with the guide I found googling which isn't this model but it was mostly the same except the first larger shim you only put one instead of two becYse it only comes with two that size. Easy enough to figure out .

I need to buy some CST diff fluid. Dunno should I buy 60000 or 100000 what's the difference? Thanks in advance.

Is there any suggestions on pinion sizes to buy any motor recommendations for a 13.5t race motor ?


I scored a Tekin RS gen2 on eBay last night it will be here by Tuesday. I'll keep an eye out for a hotwire
You sure you didn't mistakenly add an extra "0" in those diff fluid numbers?
 
I think you may mean 6,000 or 10,000. There is a 1,000,000 diff lube on road racers use when they want to have front diff that is almost locked up. To get the correct diff fluid you may want to email Team Associated or call them ask their opinion.
 
i got the 10k ill order some 7k as well.

going to start with the 10k and see how that does.

I was doing rear hub assembly and got them both in but had to remove the right to adjust something briefly in the process one of the plastic spacers that go between the hinge pin shot up and I have no clue where it went, so It seems I gotta order
Team Associated 92055
to get the ONE space I'm missing to complete the setup . BOO

lol anyways the diff fluid will be here today. I pretty much need to buy a battery charger now and then a diff spur gear was thinking 78t with a 25t pinion and i should be ready to go. any feedback much appreciated!
 
I got the diff fluid in now ready to re assdmble got the same question as before installing this does it matter which side the screws face left or right etc?
 

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Thankfully found the black spacer that went flying so I could get the other rear hub in hooray!

Now I have question about ball cups It seems that all of them are certain way except for tubing a left in the right I would assume are going to be for the smaller buckle up front but I am not sure as I cannot find any distinguishing notes or pictures in the kit instructions to clarify this somebody could take a look at the picture and let me know as soon as possible I have a greatly appreciate it thank you.
 

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went through the building instructions as well, and didnt see anything regarding that specific rod end, that said that parts tree does go to a few different kits, including some short course and club racer kits etc, wondering if it may be off one of those.
119306

though i have seen similar parts to that to put on the tie rod links, changing ackerman angle ever so slightly, and I've seen them used to allow clearance of tires and wheel combo. i would continue building and if you come across it in the manual install as so, if not, it is probably an extra that is compatible with a different vehicle, or used to adjust suspension geometry.
 
installing these shock eyelets were possibly the most difficult part of the kit build. two more two go and then gotta mount electronics and we should almost be in business.
 
installing these shock eyelets were possibly the most difficult part of the kit build. two more two go and then gotta mount electronics and we should almost be in business.
Those things do suck, but at least you know they won't pop off, maybe ever lol
 
alright the shocks i have installed the standard way, it wappears that a lot of people/racers put them on the inside of the shock post rather than the back/outside. i suppose i can run the truck standard and see how it does - any suggestions on carpet as to why the front side of tower would be better for rear shocks?

also I'm going to order some CA glue now for the tires i bought and get this thing rolling here on saturday :) :)

any suggestion on applying pressure to get these sealed up- is it worth buying the 9-12$ plastic things that slide over and hold in place? or even the bands i see for sale? or is there something at home that can be used to work just as well - would really appreciate any feedback on this so I can get it ordered tonight for friday delivery! :)
 
alright the shocks i have installed the standard way, it wappears that a lot of people/racers put them on the inside of the shock post rather than the back/outside. i suppose i can run the truck standard and see how it does - any suggestions on carpet as to why the front side of tower would be better for rear shocks?

also I'm going to order some CA glue now for the tires i bought and get this thing rolling here on saturday :):)

any suggestion on applying pressure to get these sealed up- is it worth buying the 9-12$ plastic things that slide over and hold in place? or even the bands i see for sale? or is there something at home that can be used to work just as well - would really appreciate any feedback on this so I can get it ordered tonight for friday delivery! :)
i normally use just regular rubber bands and make sure there is good tension on the tires, but i do not race, so perfection isnt necessary. the bands are cool though and one day i may order a set, but I've been pretty happy with the results of doing it with regular rubber bands. again though, i do not race, so take this with a grain of salt.
side note: don't forget how fast CA glue dries lol, my first tire since being back in rcing has a spot that isnt set all the way in correctly because i was too slow and it already dried before making it back around the tire, and before i was able to put a rubber band on.
it isnt hugely popped out, just enough it bothers me.
 
i adjusted my steering trim right 47 or 48 it says and it seems to drive pretty straight now, just have a question about getting these tires ready to drive etc. - should i trim the edges of the foam at all like shown in one youtube video? or does it not need trimmed? thanks i appreciate the advice as always! the mylaps and hotwire came and i got the tekin software setup and changed the config to 7.4v bec now to get more servo power. the owner of it must have never stopped smoking cigarettes it smells so bad you can smell the smoke smell thru a ziplock where i stored it for now :(
 
i adjusted my steering trim right 47 or 48 it says and it seems to drive pretty straight now, just have a question about getting these tires ready to drive etc. - should i trim the edges of the foam at all like shown in one youtube video? or does it not need trimmed? thanks i appreciate the advice as always! the mylaps and hotwire came and i got the tekin software setup and changed the config to 7.4v bec now to get more servo power. the owner of it must have never stopped smoking cigarettes it smells so bad you can smell the smoke smell thru a ziplock where i stored it for now :(
for the trim, i would center the servo, pull off the horn, and then re-attach the horn when the wheels are somewhat straight. that way you have guaranteed full movement either way and reduced risk of binding.
 
I have a Traxxas slash and love it. I have the LCG kit installed on it and it makes all the difference. Just make sure you get at least 2 good batteries.
 
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