RaidenRacing RC?

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Absolutely you should. In fact you should buy 7.?

Let us know how they go. Also do you know if they come in other lengths?
 
Not sure. I’m actually just going to do what everyone else does and go buy some Lunsford ends. I guess grade 5 titanium works better than grade 45 steel. If it doesn’t, Lunsford has a lifetime warrenty so if I shatter one it gets replaced, and that’s really all I care about :D

I might put those raidens on the front though, because just like every rc there is toe links on the front but they’re connected to a servo saver so they won’t crack nearly as easily.
 
I’ll start with the lunsfords... which I doubt I’ll have any troubles with, and I’ll see how I feel about picking up those 7mm steel ones from raiden racing.
 
I’ll start with the lunsfords... which I doubt I’ll have any troubles with, and I’ll see how I feel about picking up those 7mm steel ones from raiden racing.
I've only run lunsford on a few things, but never bent or broke one. My Losi Aftershock liked snapping tie-rods frequently and the RPM upper arms were a 2 piece with turnbuckle that liked to snap. I went through 6 or 8 stock sets before switching to lusnford and never broke one again. Just had to swap the sloppy ends out every year or so.
 
I've only run lunsford on a few things, but never bent or broke one. My Losi Aftershock liked snapping tie-rods frequently and the RPM upper arms were a 2 piece with turnbuckle that liked to snap. I went through 6 or 8 stock sets before switching to lusnford and never broke one again. Just had to swap the sloppy ends out every year or so.
I send my E Revo way higher than its ever meant to be so I wouldn’t be surprised if I break a few. The warrenty is why I’m going Lunsford :)
 
I send my E Revo way higher than its ever meant to be so I wouldn’t be surprised if I break a few. The warrenty is why I’m going Lunsford :)
Would be nice if they made shock shafts, shock rod ends and shock pistons. ;)

After having revos for many years, I've succumbed to the fact that they can't be aired out without consequences. At least onto a flat surface. They do ok when your come down on a falling slope, but things tend to explode when the come down from 15' onto a flat surface.
 
Would be nice if they made shock shafts, shock rod ends and shock pistons. ;)

After having revos for many years, I've succumbed to the fact that they can't be aired out without consequences. At least onto a flat surface. They do ok when your come down on a falling slope, but things tend to explode when the come down from 15' onto a flat surface.
Damn dude, sorry the older ones have you thinking that way. I haven’t had a single issue with any rod ends after throwing limiting straps on the rear. Never been through a shock piston or rod either, just the ends... but like I said, straps fixed that.
 
Damn dude, sorry the older ones have you thinking that way. I haven’t had a single issue with any rod ends after throwing limiting straps on the rear. Never been through a shock piston or rod either, just the ends... but like I said, straps fixed that.
Surprising you haven't had shock issues as they were unchanged in the v2. Then again, if you stick with "normal" oil weights, you may not have issues. For a long time, I was trying to avoid bottoming out so hard. Setting the shocks up to do that means running heavy oil and stiff springs, which then means busted shafts and pistons and ends.

I can get away with more chassis slap on the ERBEv1, but on the nitro's, especially the big block, the engine bay bends/breaks mounts when you go too high and it hits the ground hard. So I just run a bit higher than normal oil/springs and don't jump so high.
 
Surprising you haven't had shock issues as they were unchanged in the v2. Then again, if you stick with "normal" oil weights, you may not have issues. For a long time, I was trying to avoid bottoming out so hard. Setting the shocks up to do that means running heavy oil and stiff springs, which then means busted shafts and pistons and ends.

I can get away with more chassis slap on the ERBEv1, but on the nitro's, especially the big block, the engine bay bends/breaks mounts when you go too high and it hits the ground hard. So I just run a bit higher than normal oil/springs and don't jump so high.
I don’t run dramatic shock weight, maybe 20 over stock. I have almost 300 runs on the truck, stock pistons and all. And I run the wide track Trencher x’s, very heavy.
 
I don’t run dramatic shock weight, maybe 20 over stock. I have almost 300 runs on the truck, stock pistons and all. And I run the wide track Trencher x’s, very heavy.
Yeah, I was running VDK #2 and 80-90wt with purple springs. Kept breaking the pistons. Think I'm at 60 or 70 now in my big block, lighter in my small block and ERBEv1.
 
Yeah, I was running VDK #2 and 80-90wt with purple springs. Kept breaking the pistons. Think I'm at 60 or 70 now in my big block, lighter in my small block and ERBEv1.
Interesting. You know how the 2.0 shocks are slightly different than the 1.0s? Like how the 1.0 has the coated shafts and stuff? Maybe internally the 2.0 shocks are a little different and hold up better... just speculating, I have no idea. All I know is my shocks have held up great.
 
Same part numbers except the 2.0 doesn't come with the hard anno'd shock bodies. That's an optional part. I run the hard anno'd body/TiNi shafts in all 3 of my revos.
 
I had the RCS cage on my savage back in the day and their tool steel 1M spur on my BB maxx as well as their spring steel skids/bumpers. Wish I could find bumpers like that again for my revo's. Add a rubber grommet to the back and you could hit a brick wall, then bounce off it.

I had the RC Raven cage on my ERBE for a while. Was a pain to work around and it kept breaking my front body mount. It's only mounting point was on the body mounts. The inertia of it when you would lawn dart would nearly shear the mount off the chassis. Helped the body last longer as it didn't flex at all when you landed on the roof, but I couldn't figure out a fix for the body mount issue. So now it's in the closet and I made a god awful looking roll bar to support the body instead.
 
I had the RCS cage on my savage back in the day and their tool steel 1M spur on my BB maxx as well as their spring steel skids/bumpers. Wish I could find bumpers like that again for my revo's. Add a rubber grommet to the back and you could hit a brick wall, then bounce off it.

I had the RC Raven cage on my ERBE for a while. Was a pain to work around and it kept breaking my front body mount. It's only mounting point was on the body mounts. The inertia of it when you would lawn dart would nearly shear the mount off the chassis. Helped the body last longer as it didn't flex at all when you landed on the roof, but I couldn't figure out a fix for the body mount issue. So now it's in the closet and I made a god awful looking roll bar to support the body instead.
Damn dude, so those rcs cages really are good pretty jealous right about now lol.
 
Damn dude, so those rcs cages really are good pretty jealous right about now lol.
It broke after a few bends... it did fine when landing on the roof flat, but when you lawn darted on the rear or the front, it would kink/bend the long front to back pieces. Then after you did that a couple times and flattened them out, they would crack at the notch where they keyed into the sideways pieces.

14 years ago:
2005-0515-SavageRCSCage01.JPG


4 months later:
2005-0917-BentRCSCage.JPG
 
Holy crap dude... lmao. So you think that rcs cage would be a bad buy for an E Revo? I’ve really been considering it.
 
Depends on how you drive... you definitely need a body over it as it digs into the ground like a shovel and just gets destroyed in seconds.

This is the RC Raven one I had on there:
2019-0130-ERBE-TrenchersSide.jpg


Now I have this... lol
2019-0225-ERBE-RollBarSide.jpg


Just something to support the center of the body from buckling is all I really need. Keeps it from cracking at the base of the windshield. I think this works ok. I'm still running the old body which is ziptied together until I figured out a solution. I have a brand new body on the shelf, just didn't want to install it to only have it get tore up the first time out because of the buckling when landing on the roof... as I tend to end up on my roof. ;)

Oh, I went back to traxxas 3.8 t-maxx wheels/tires as well. The trencher 3.8's were too tall and causing my shock/pushrod ends to over compress. And I was twisting the rear axle yokes on a too frequent for me basis.
 

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