Query about Kyosho Inferno Neo 2.0

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Dday212

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Hi folks. I'm new to RC Nitro cars and two weeks ago I purchased the Kyosho Inferno Neo 2.0. If its ok I would like a little bit of advice as the instructions are very poor.

Firstly I'm having trouble with the transmitter/receiver. The vehicle regularly loses signal and then suddenly finds it again. Weird as I don't know what can be causing it as the signal is 2.4ghz and I shouldn't be getting interference. Anybody any ideas?

Secondly, how long do the batteries last in the vehicle. I seem to go through a 4 pack in 30 minutes of use. (Expensive). If this is the case then can you purchase a rechargeable pack for this vehicle?

Lastly how can i tell if the engine is leaned correctly. I'm worried in case I'm running it too lean..

Thanks Guys and sorry for being a pest.
 
Do NOT use cheap batteries. Brand name alkaline batteries should last for many hours of use over several days.
Look into a 5 cell rechargeable pack.
Do you have a hobby store nearby? If not you can get it online.
 
Not sure about the TX/RX issue. The only two things that come to mind are maybe the batteries (either in teh kit or in the transmitter) are weak or its possible that there is a defect in the product somewhere? Not sure nothing else is coming to mind atm.

As for the batteries going dead in 30 minutes that seems really short to me but when you say a 4 pack I'm assuming you mean a 4 pack of AAs. Get a 6V rechargeable hump pack, somethign like THIS. I usually get at least 1200mAh packs (The ones in the link I provided are 1600mAh). That will not only give you longer run times but save you money in the long run.

As for the tuning part theres a really good flowchart you can follow in THIS link and theres another really good tunign guide from Robin at Extreme RC Mods HERE.
Both of those are excellent guides.

Hope this helps :)
 
Thanks Guys,
The AA's I've been using are ORION. I got these from the model shop when I bought the model. I'm not sure but I think ORION have something to do with Kyosho. I'll certainly try the recharge packs. The battery warning indicators on the transmitter are not flashing so I think they are ok so that's why I'm thinking its the car...
 
Well I decided to purchase a 1200mah recharge pack and it seems much better.....
 
Yeah was gonna chime in and say its the batteries. Some receivers are known for these "brown-outs" caused by the servos demanding more power than the batteries can consistently provide. Double A's are ok for you're transmitter if it accepts them but you really shouldn't use them for the receiver/servos, ever.
 
You're definitely not being a pest. Regarding how to tell if your engine is tuned correctly. Start with the carb-slide gap, with the venturi removed from your carb-neck make sure the throttle servo always returns the carb-slide back to about a 1mm gap and set the gap at full brake (may change later but 1mm is good place to start). Make sure that you're needle settings are set to factory specs, check with manufacturer to see how many turns out from closed the LSN and HSN should be. If you don't have a temp gauge and either a heat gun or hair dryer get these things. You don't tune by temp but you also want to make sure that you aren't melting your engine or going wide open throttle with cold engine (less than 200F). These engines detest cold starts so the heat gun or hair dryer are a must if you want the engine to last as long as it can.

With the above steps taken and items in hand your ready to break in your engine. I suggest the heat cycle method. Using your heat gun or hair dryer get the engine temp up to around 150F or better before starting. When you do a quick pass at 50% throttle or better you should see that stream of blue smoke everyone talks about, not a thick stream really just visible. Too much smoke equals rich and if you really have to strain to see smoke you're lean. Follow the guides at the top of the RC Nitro Talk forum and your engine will be tuned perfectly.
 

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