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kyosho Gurus?

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rhill

RCTalk Member
Messages
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Location
Fenton, MO
RC Driving Style
  1. Crawling
  2. Flying
I want to go old school 4wd(I have been out of racing for many years) and was wondering what are the main differences in the Optima Mid and the Turbo Optima Gold, besides the gold parts. Also a good brushless motor/esc, for good punch out of corners. Don't want a dog on the straights either, but want torque for the corners mainly. I've been in r/c planes for the most part for a long time and know brushless plane motors, but modern electronics in cars is still a bit of mystery to me.
Thanks for any help!
 
I was sleeping but then...
4425.gif


I knew I was needed!!! 🤣

I am indeed very well informed about Kyosho Optima and Optima Mid platforms.

The answer to your question is the differences are far too vast and you need to buy one of each!!! Maybe a few!!! 😍🤣
Ok, maybe not right away, but I bet you'll love the first one so much, you'll buy another! Kyosho makes GREAT buggies!!!


The two cars share a few common parts but the Optima, Jav, Turbo Optima and Optima Pro Gold chassis are pretty different from the Optima Mid, Turbo Mid and Mid SE chassis.

The biggest difference is the location of the motor on the chassis.

OG Optima have rear mounted motors. They hang right off the back of the car actually.

Mid's motors are mounted in front of the rear axle.

Idea was that as carpet racing became more popular, the Mid weight distribution gave better handling characteristics on those surfaces.

The rear motor puts lots of weight over the rear axle and tires. This is generally better for dirt track traction and handling.

I believe all the rear motor chassis were 258mm wheelbase. Mids were availible with 258mm and 270mm options.

Longer wheelbase tended to improve high speed stability with a bit of cost, not as quick around corners like SWB cars.

There are also different shock options that came with different models.

The original cars had red shocks that I think were 10mm pistons. I am not 100% sure. I don't own any of the red shock Optimas.

There were 12mm gold shocks. They are my favorite RC shock ever.
I restored a set with Xrings, titanium shafts and new silicone oil. They are like silk! So smooth!!!

Titanium shocks are pretty to look at. They work well enough but the rate adjustability feature isn't great. I never use it.

They function well but I am terrified to break them. Parts are rare for titanium shocks. I would not race them regularly for that reason.

New rerelease red shocks are 12mm and use a slip collar to adjust the spring preload.
New (re-re) offer gold and gunmetal bodies but are the same shocks otherwise. I have a set of each and am waiting to build and install still.

I hear the rere shocks are every bit as good, even better than the originals. Ppl really like the new style threaded spring adjust collars vs the og slip collars. Much easier to adjust.



The original Optima ran a chain drive. A belt drive upgrade was availible for it.
I believe the rerelease cars offer similar options.

The original Mid ran a deeper tooth belt than the new one too.

Do you intend to run the actual 1987 car or a rerelease version? Theres a lot of differences between new and old.

Are you looking to keep with Kyosho for electronics?
The Lemans 240 13.5 motor will have plenty of power as should most other 13.5.


13.5 turn motors are commonly the limit for 1/10 4x4 at the track.

The Lemans 240 esc will fit into a Mid chassis nicely (I hear).

I currently own a HobbyWing XR10 Legends esc for my Mid intended for the track.
I have a few different motors to pick from. 10.5 Yokomo titanium drift motor is likely the fastest.
I'll report back one day I hope!

I haven't been to the track in a VERY long time so keep in mind that a fair amount of my on-track knowledge of these cars is very dated.

I know a LOT about these cars and 1/10 scale vintage Kyosho generally.
I think I have 5 Mids and 2 rear motor Optimas currently, tho only 1 is close to rebuilt now.

4608.webp

From left upper, counter clockwise:
Theres a LWB alum chassis, the SWB carbon fiber car, the OG LWB JG graphite chassis car that I raced in the 80's, finally a SWB 3mm alum chassis Optima Mid SE.

I can talk about these cars for days so ask away!!! 😎👍😁
 
Wow! That is a lot to take in, truly appreciate the time you took to give me some answers. You really sound "CERTIFIED"!! So I plan on running on a dirt track, so I guess the rear motor is the way to go. Although with my less than mediocre driving skill it probable won't matter much if the car is mid or rear motor. Keeping the car all Kyosho sounds good, maybe the Kyosho motor would be the way to go. It seems to be a decent motor from what I have read. I want a Kyosho as back in the 80's I built a couple and remember the quality and fit of the parts was first rate even back then. Most likely will build more than one, who only stops at one anyway? This stuff is addicting, I have barely run my Vanquish H-10 Optic and I want a fast buggy already, I guess I am sick. I do have one more question though. About how long will a drive belt last? It looks like a royal PIA to change them out. Oh yes, I am going to buy a new production kit. I may do a restoration at some point in the future, if I can find an old one cheap enough to justify new parts. Thanks again!
 
Belts last a long time. They stretch out over years more than break. I have yet to snap a belt in one of these cars.
I used to break the chain somewhat regularly. The chain needs regular adjustment. Belt stays put pretty much.

You are 100% correct about changing the belts.
The entire car is built around the belt!!!

The rear motor Optima wasn't as tough as the Mid but I wasn't as experienced with the rear motor car either.
I was young and not a great driver but BOY was that car FAST!!!
I broke stuff! Lol!

I think I like the Mid more but I am not a dirt racer really either.

I think either design chassis will scratch your vintage buggy itch.

Addicting? I just now bought another pair of Kyosho TF vintage on road cars. Slightly smaller than mids, belt driven 4x4 cars... Also awesome!!!

The rerelease are great! They have real slipper gears to help tame brushless power.

The mids did have an issue with the ball diff gear being easy to strip out for some ppl. Gear diff doesn't strip.

I would suggest looking into a Optima Pro or Turbo Optima Mid World or Optima Pro over cars without hop ups included.
The hop ups get expensive quickly.

You might also get lucky and find a Koswork edition Optima Mid. They are avail overseas.
Koswork makes NICE hop up parts for the Mids tho $$$ too!!!

You can buy all the Koswork parts later if you can't find the car.

If you are running on dirt it is ULTRA IMPORTANT to seal up the belt, guides, covers...

Sand and dirt will get pulled in and crunch your transmission all up!

I can help you find vintage stuff when you are ready too. 😎 👍
 
Would a silicone sealer be used to seal the transmission parts, or is there something specific that should be used? Good point about buying a kit with hop ups included, it does save a bit of money over buying them later. That is good the belt last a long time. I looked up the assembly instructions online and I was thinking if there is one drawback to these cars, it is replacing a belt. Modern shaft drive is so much more friendly to work on, but there is just something about these old design Kyosho cars that is just cool.
 
The transmission cases fit together well. No sealing required. Its the belt channels, covers... that need a bit extra IMO.

A bit of RTV will fix the issue, yes.

I really like how quiet and smooth belt drive is.

These buggies were designed from on road cars and share a lot of similar traits. Thats where the belt came from.

Its funny too. The Kyosho Fantom was an earlier 1/12 scale on road car with an open chain drive.
Even big 1/8 scale Kyosho buggies like the Vannings used to use chain drives. They were all metal TANKS!

I 100% agree! Vintage Kyosho buggies really were and still are some of the coolest RCs availible!
 
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