Piecing It Together. What would you do.??.....

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The Hobbywing motor and ESC arrived along with the ProTek servo. lt all looks great. lf it all functions as well as the parts look, l've scored a winner. The motor is a 4300kv and came wth a 21T pinion gear. The ESC is 140amps. As l've said, l mostly run in parking lots. Ovals and roadcourse type of driving. Straightaways are from 60 feet to 200ft. l like speed and controlled cornering. Hate spinouts. l love to give up speed for a nice rounded corner and then hit it.!! NASCAR style. Usually l hit 3 quarter throttle on the straights. Around 50mph on a radar gun.

With that in mind l want to have speed and good runtimes with the new rig. ls this enough info for someone to 'calculate' some speed and runtimes.?? Spur gear is a 53t that came stock with the Tekno truggy . Tekno suggests an 18t or 19t pinion. Sorry for the horrible pictures.
 

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Powerful package. For shake down runs, if it were me, I'd begin with the 19T. At 2.78:1 that is a "high" ratio to me, but not knowing over gear ratio it falls right in the Tekno recommendations. The 21/53 figures at 2.52:1, even higher, which should give you the speed you are wanting.

I like that your Tekno has 32p 'stone crusher' gears. One pinion tooth change produces noticeable results. Makes tuning easier. Good luck. Anxious to see the finished project.

Cheers. 'AC'
 
Thanks AC. Thats the sort of information l was looking for. Not precise but in the realm. l'm going to put a Robinson pinion on the motor shaft. Being a beginner/low intermediate I have a question..... Will this system run cool.?? And I assume running a smaller piniion gear wll help keep the temps down, correct.?? Thats my goal but do keep in mind, speed prevails. hee.... haw.....
 
Thanks AC. Thats the sort of information l was looking for. Not precise but in the realm. l'm going to put a Robinson pinion on the motor shaft. Being a beginner/low intermediate I have a question..... Will this system run cool.?? And I assume running a smaller piniion gear wll help keep the temps down, correct.?? Thats my goal but do keep in mind, speed prevails. hee.... haw.....
The ESC should be fine. 140A ESC is pretty "beefy" for your application. The motor you'll just have to keep tabs on because temps are ultimately going to be dictated a lot by gearing. You are correct, using a smaller pinion or larger spur will help bring temps down if needed.
 
Thanks Wolf ..... l say speed prevails but what l need to keep in mind is...... Low temps rule.
 
Thanks Wolf ..... l say speed prevails but what l need to keep in mind is...... Low temps rule.
Just dont let your ESC get much above 150F-ish and dont let the motor get above 170F. Other than that "let 'er rip, tater chip!" :)
 
The Hobbywing motor and ESC arrived along with the ProTek servo. lt all looks great. lf it all functions as well as the parts look, l've scored a winner. The motor is a 4300kv and came wth a 21T pinion gear. The ESC is 140amps. As l've said, l mostly run in parking lots. Ovals and roadcourse type of driving. Straightaways are from 60 feet to 200ft. l like speed and controlled cornering. Hate spinouts. l love to give up speed for a nice rounded corner and then hit it.!! NASCAR style. Usually l hit 3 quarter throttle on the straights. Around 50mph on a radar gun.

With that in mind l want to have speed and good runtimes with the new rig. ls this enough info for someone to 'calculate' some speed and runtimes.?? Spur gear is a 53t that came stock with the Tekno truggy . Tekno suggests an 18t or 19t pinion. Sorry for the horrible pictures.

There is a couple of good speed calcs out there that will give you an idea/estimates. https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
I change the internal gear ratio (picture below) of the preset Hyper 10TT to match the ET410. I also use 4.1v/cell to give a better realistic estimate of speed. I don't know if RC Calc available for download anymore, but...

1639316638327.png
 
Those 3652 motors are legit. I wasn't sure what combo you were getting, 'cause the 3660 would be a very tight fit with the larger ESC. I had to place my receiver in the back. When I was searching for a 3656 size motor to be put in my SCTs, I couldn't find any Hobbywing 3656 motors anymore, and got a link to their replacement... 3652 G2 motors ;). I was a bit skeptical when the power of the new motor was said to be just as good as the older motor. I run my ET410 with large knobby SCT tires, and the 3652 G2 motor has more than enough oomph to move the mini truggy.
 
....I like that your Tekno has 32p 'stone crusher' gears. One pinion tooth change produces noticeable results. Makes tuning easier. Good luck. Anxious to see the finished project.

Cheers. 'AC'
The only thing I dislike about 4wd RCs, the ones that have the center diffs out in the open, is the greater chance of debris entering and potentially ruining a great run. I run my RCs on a rough track that is infused with little rocks/pebbles. I definitely would not run anything other than 32P gears on the ET410 if out in the elements. About once a year it happens... "rock beats scissors". Sometimes I get lucky. I've ran many, many months on a chewed up ET410 center diff gear. It wasn't totally gone, but was compromised. I didn't change it out, because I wanted to see how durable the gear was. Tekno RC has won me over with their plastic composites. :celebrate:💪
20190713_184721 1.jpg
 
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Useful info there, HeavyBag.

I fabricated a Lexan shield over the top of the exposed pinion/spur on a brushless conversion RC10GT a while back. Looks like the same could be done to offer a bit more protection against foreign object damage/entry from above on the pictured gearset. Won't keep it all out, but will help. Lots of places to attach a shield using existing screws. Cheers. 'AC'
 
... As l've said, l mostly run in parking lots. Ovals and roadcourse type of driving. Straightaways are from 60 feet to 200ft. l like speed and controlled cornering. Hate spinouts. l love to give up speed for a nice rounded corner and then hit it.!! NASCAR style. Usually l hit 3 quarter throttle on the straights. Around 50mph on a radar gun....
Before I forget, and if you do decide to take the ET410 off-road, a more robust/flexible wing might be a good bet... a Sworkz 1/10 Electric Buggy S104 EK1 Rear Wing does wonders.
 
Thanks guys. l noticed the wide-open nature of that spur gear. l knew right away l was going to 'cover it' somehow.

Does this layout look good to go.?? l want the switch right where it is but it does ever so softly have contact to the motor can on that top edge. ls that okay.??

How about the orientaton of the ESC..... lt fits niicely right there and its not in contact wth anything. l'll have to solder the wires 'on end' so to speak. l think the reciever will fit right where the balled up wires are. l don't have the reciever in hand just yet.

ls this layout up to standard.?? Any objections.??
 

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Hey RPG. Moving smartly along on this build, you are.

Yea, mounting space is at a premium with today's mid-motor designs. With the on/off switch in that position, is there allowance for motor adjustment using different size pinions and spurs?

Cheers. 'AC'
 
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Great points and questiions AC. Thanks for that. Your point about having room for different sized pinions s excellent thinking. l think the answer is yes but frankly I don't have the expierence to know for sure. Nothing will be mounted permanently until all the parts are in hand. This is probably the most patient I've ever been on a hobby project. I'm finding I like the pace. The cold weather helps. wink.

I mentioned in my post above that I'm hoping the receiver will mount right where I have the wires bundled together just forward of the ESC. Questions....

How does the ESC mount.?? No screw holes in the chassis. Same for the receiver. There is double sided tape included so I assume that will be sturdy enough.??

And yes, the body hugs the chassis pretty warmly. So ya, I am checking the fit for anything hanging outside of the chassis. At this point the wires coming out of the ESC are a bit wide which causes the body to bump out just a small amount. I would say acceptable but thanks for mentioning that.

l have to buy the Sanwa MX-6 radio and receiver, 1 or 2 shorty 2s packs, battery connectors and possibly, most likely, a solder package. I'm hoping it will be RTR next month.

What are the best/easiest soldering/most common battery connectors.?? l kinda like the EC5 / IC5 connectors by Spectrum. That said, l'm not a Spektrum fan.

Thanks for your help everyone.!!
 
l got the 3652. Sorry l missed your question. Also you mentioned the balsa wing l built. Right now I have the original clear wing on it and I think l like it.
 
G'Day RPG. In regard to mounting rcvr and ESC. Double-side tape is more than adequate for the rcvr, as wiring and connectors for it are light gauge.. For ESC's it becomes a bit more challenging. A good bonding surface is essential to secure the ESC in place to control the heavier 12ga wire. For what it's worth, I use denatured alcohol to clean the underside of both the rcvr and ESC as well as the chassis area they mount to before attaching.

My RC ESC's use 3M double sided tape. It's a bit thicker than what comes OEM from manu's and has more holding power. Removal is difficult, though. There is a roll of ProTek double-sided in my pit box. It holds well and comes off easy. But its a bugger to get separated from its backing for install.

Choosing a battery connector is a personal choice. All have their favorite and most flow current in an adequate manner. Dean's works for me and meets my needs for 2s. In times past, it was satisfactory for 3s applications as well. Should my RC's ever transition to 4s, I would re-visit EC5's. Used them back '09 I think it was. Found them a PITA to assemble compared to simply soldering up a Dean's.

Soldering station for me is a Hakko. Had it for ten years now and it does 12ga no sweat. Personally, I steer clear of silver solder. For me, it's too hard to work with and takes a lot more heat to flow than conventional electronic-specific rosin core.

You are asking a lot of good questions that force me to re-think how I do things. Some of the other guys using more current methods will likely weigh in and we'll both benefit from their new world TTP (Tactics, Techniques and Procedures). Keep up the good work. Cheers. 'AC'
 
I agree with pretty much all of this 👆except Deans are good up to at least 6S, especially the new white or black Deans. I also use Deans mainly but EC and XT connectors are also equally good. XTs are easier to put together imo. If you buy Deans do yourself a favor and buy genuine Deans Ultra Plugs. If you buy XTs or ECs buy AMASS brand.

Hakko and Weller are two of the best brands around for Soldering Stations. I prefer Hakko. For Solder use 63/37 Rosin core solder. I prefer the .8mm size for most stuff. 60/40 Rosin core solder also works but electronics technicians use 63/37. I would not use anything besides one of those two.

I like using industrial strength velcro for my ESCs instead of double sided tape but tape works well too.
 
OP here reportng back ..... l bought a decent soldering unit. Duratrax TK950. l might have burned up the ESC. Really disappointed and knowing it's all my fault.

l'm finding that to be fast the temperature wants to be at 700 degrees. You can see in one of the pictures the connections to the ESC are too hgh. l don't think the wires are seated properly. Can l go back and remove the 3 wires and start over.?? ls that even possible.?? Forgot to attach photos. whoops.
 

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l soldered the motor and ESC wires a month ago and although everything works as it should.... its not pretty to look at. Can l melt the solder/disconnect the wires and clean up the contacts and give it another go.??

l did get better at soldering. l figured out l wasn't up to the temp that it needed to be. 700 degrees was my friend.... l was chicken to go there.
 
Hey RPG. Wondering where you got off to. Been bashing up a storm, you have?

Or, if it is working o.k., you could just leave until you come up against some other major maintenance issue and address it then. Sounds like it may be a 'cold solder' joint. It will be a dull silver, not the bright shiny silver of a properly soldered joint. Cold solder joints impede current flow and are prone to fracture from vibration. So there is more going on there than just asthetics.

Generally run my soldering station ~800-850 for 12ga soldering. Keeping the tip hotter means less linger time to pass heat to the parent item-be it ESC or motor or connector. Soldering is an acquired skill. Once you get it you'll have it.

As a general rule, I try to keep all my soldering at the motor end instead of the ESC end when soldering up a power unit. And try not to make wire connections shorter than, say, 2in. You get a feel for it as you go along. De-soldering braid also helps clean up surface for follow on connections after removing wires. Makes for a bright shiny tinning eager for a connection. Below is a link showing the product. Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'

desoldering wick
 
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