Oval Breakout racing.

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Iowa crawler

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Oval breakout racing is a unique niche in a small world of rc carpet oval racing. You set a lap time of what ever is a reasonable speed for the track. In my case it’s 5.000 seconds per lap.
The rules are the first car to go fifty laps without going faster than 5.000 seconds stops the clock.
The specifications for the vehicle are basically ANY pan car chassis. Any motor, ESC, body, tires , what ever you want. But you can only go five second per lap. If you go 4.999 seconds the lap is not counted and the next lap will be over ten seconds.
So you can loose a lap without being passed and when you are a lap down going faster will not help.

This sounds so boring on paper. But to watch it is beautiful. I only see the whole crowd stop what they’re doing when a good breakout race is going on. People crowd around the computer. Room goes totally silent and five or six cars orbit at .020 seconds apart. Then at the end it’s the only time everyone applauds.

For beginners like myself it teaches control. Driving with that kind of precision takes a lot of practice.
I’m looking for more information on rules but can’t find much. There really are no rules so cheating is impossible. Any thing you got can run. So big power or fancy shocks and tires don’t help. It’s all driver.
It’s a regular class every other Sunday. I got a 5.001 lap on my first race. Total total luck because I broke out like six times and finished way last. The top five are like .5 between them. And I’m any place from 4.8-6 seconds.
 
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I have been thinking about a new car for breakout racing. Currently my Avenger is set up perfectly and my RJ modified is what I ran last time. I set the throttle power to 42 percent and it was pretty consistent. The modified is a twitchy little beast designed to go as fast as possible and survive the battle.
My Avenger is in the Busch light class and I want to use it for Busch Pro and race at the Nationals next year.

So I’m think about a car and the RJ Sport LTO ( left turn only) seems like a really good choice. It’s 150 bucks for the kit and I already have electronics and batteries.
I like this kit because they have a 34 once minimum and most people are running cars from other classes. So they are right at minimum. I’m going heavy. The speed and acceleration are not the issue here. Consistency and I think a little weight will hold speed better through the corner than a super light weight car will.
Plus if someone hits me they might bounce off.

Then they talk about running the outside of the corse at the beginning of the race and moving toward center as the batteries drop. They mostly run 1 cell batteries. I going to try a 6000 ma battery. The voltage drop of a brushless 25.5 turn motor pushing a super slick car at 1/3 throttle for 6.5 minutes should not be much.

I am going to run a Tekin RS pro ESC for its data logging. This way I can adjust things from my phone. And capture a race worth of data.
Voltage throttle position motor temp. And use the data and compare it to the race results and see what there is to learn.

Another thing I’m thinking about is tires. I have a stack of damaged tires that have big chunks taken out of the sidewalls. I can machine them down and use a slightly narrow tire since top speed and traction are not the issue.

When they say any. My mind starts to spin.
Object of the game is 50-75 laps around a carpet oval in traffic at .020 second devastation between laps.

Let’s see how this all works out. In the meantime I’ll run my modified or Avenger Sunday for the next race.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/rj-spe...uaUtUgCZ01NCJO6uhqwAEHAeX6Tjnx5kaAlYqEALw_wcB


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Cutting the tires with a hacksaw is super simple.
The tires cost almost ten bucks a piece. So this is seventy bucks worth of tires.
The kit comes with four tires. That makes the chassis cost about fifty bucks.

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I learn so much every time I play this game. I can’t wait to build a new car.
The first race I tried setting my throttle to 42%. At this setting I am going fast enough that I need to stay away from the inside of the track and just drive around the center of the track. This was ok but tricky to do. So in the second heat I set it to 43% and kinda just drove slower and pulsed the throttle and it turned out I was going to slow. Everyone on the same lap but I’m a couple tenth to slow. And if I cut the corner I can break out.
In the main I went back to 42% and just tried to be smart. I started out well and was in third place. I went to second and back to third. I broke out at like lap 55 but held thing . What I learned from the fast guys is to set the throttle so you have to drive your regular fast line but don’t break out. So next race I’ll set it to 39-40% throttle and drive it like I stole it and see if that is good enough.

You can see how the time goes in this screen shot. A 5.07 followed by a 5.5 second lap puts me in second from third. But a 6.6 instantly dropped me back to third.

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This is what the winners graph looked like

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After
Spending a long time gathering parts the big day has arrived. I have 99% of what I need and can steal the rest from other cars and replace them later.
But this is everything to build a Breakout car.
RJSpeed LTO chassis kit.
Tekin RS Pro esc
Tekin 21.5 spec motor
gensacearespammers 2 s battery.
Protec 160ss servo.

The first thing I had to do was make a servo mount setup. I’m the spec class you use the included wire and collars for the steering tie rods and double sided tape for the servo mount. I am using a pan cat servo with RPM ball joints and turnbuckles.
I counter sunk the screws and mounted the pivot point on center with the servo weight to the left. Tie rods are as straight as they need to be for the suspension travel. Next it the back end power pod assembly

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Wow. Very challenging. I don't have near the opportunity to race. Sounds like you're having fun.
 
Having a blast. These Iowans have winter figured out.

I got it all done except the paint. I have no idea on that.
I did add a front bumper and I’ll probably put a foam cover on that .

The body is very thin and it is slightly offset . With my recycled tires it is perfect.
This has to be the best deal in racing.
145 dollar kit with a 35 dollar body and a 40 dollar set of tires I need. It will use recycled tires perfectly. All the electronics is used from buggies.
Should just drive around at five second laps and be very stable and smooth. Plus for the 200 lap race I have extra batteries

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I didn't think I would ever say this but maybe I should move to Iowa 😁
 
How did you get all that work done with such a tiny work bench?

Looks good.
That whole car including electronics was under 250$?
 
How did you get all that work done with such a tiny work bench?

Looks good.
That whole car including electronics was under 250$?
IC has a shrink ray. He shrinks his garage down for photo shoots 🤣
 
Time to make a decision on the paint. I’m tired of PS16 blue but it’s my first choice as it matches all my other race cars. Problem is I’m tired of it and the dark color does not show up well against the black carpet. And I have black carbon fiber numbers.
Next choice is the box art I don’t have the stickers and black and silver is just OK.
That leaves the rainbow.

1. Red. Maybe, not a big fan but don’t have anything red.
2 Orange. Top driver already has orange and I don’t want to use that.
3 Yellow. I like yellow with a black hood and black numbers. The Hawkeyes football team colors are yellow and black and I guess that’s ok. I don’t watch sports.
4 Green, I’m a Kawasaki rider and green is ok but I don’t have the paint that’s the right shade. Quakers state green is not what I want and the other greens are too much of something.
5 Blue. Been there done that.
6 Purple. That’s the color of my Bush light car and the team Avenger color.

So Yellow it will be. With a black hood and numbers. I will try to add in a contrasting color someplace to make it less Iowa football.
 
I use cheap vinyl masking tape I got off Amazon. It works great. Very clean paint lines.

6 Pieces Pinstripe Tape Vinyl Masking Tape Blue Painters Tape High Temperature Low Tack Automotive Car Paint, 1/16 Inch, 1/8 Inch, 1/4 Inch for Easy Removal Trim Thin Finishing Masking https://a.co/d/2x9IMeI
 
I wish I could put the tape on straight. Or make anything that did not look like it was done by a kindergartener on kool-aid.
I might try a front to back color shift using different widths of tape. Then I can use a ruler to get the lines straight.
 
You just stick one end down and pull it straight and stick it down.
 
Well it must be fate. I decided to go with green and black not yellow and black. And I kinda like the combo.
So I looked at me paint supply because ultimately it’s what I have on the shelf that determines the color of a race car. The body’s don’t last that long.
But look what I had all the way in the back. PS -21 park green . Still has the wrapper on it. SOLD!!!

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Remember the blue plastic is still on it. I hope I still like it when I pull that off. It’s definitely green.
 

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