new here and need help with 1/8 buggy
- Thread starter derrick87
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- buggy
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With your wheels centered and servo on, if you forcefully pivot the front wheels, the servo saver should give before the servo strips out. If it's adjustable, you usually start with little tension on the spring, then adjust accordingly so that the servo saver separates/compresses the spring before the servo gives. It also absorbs the shock vs the wheel or tie-rods absorbing it.
It's like a slipper clutch. It's there to absorb the shock of an impact. 1/8th scale buggies are typically the toughest RC available. Arms are short and fat, hinge pins are large, wheels are smaller and string, little sidewall on the tires and a wing to hit the ground before the engine on topside landings. Everything about them is just tough. The spring loaded servo saver is just one more thing making them durable.
It's like a slipper clutch. It's there to absorb the shock of an impact. 1/8th scale buggies are typically the toughest RC available. Arms are short and fat, hinge pins are large, wheels are smaller and string, little sidewall on the tires and a wing to hit the ground before the engine on topside landings. Everything about them is just tough. The spring loaded servo saver is just one more thing making them durable.
Kris407
RCTalk Talkaholic
Similar to the small springs on your throttle linkage it's on the steering column that your steering servo goes to. It's design to "flex" and absorb large jolts that could strip your servo horn and/or gears.
derrick87
RCTalk Basher
- Thread starter
- #104
well i turned it on grabbed the wheels and tried turning them and it looks like the servo wants to turn i dont see any stopping from the servo saver and the nut is kinda tightish. tried turning the nut and it doesint want to move...btw got the glow plugs but its been pretty crappy weather here cold and rainy
derrick87
RCTalk Basher
- Thread starter
- #105
Another questions guys do you put lock tight on nylon nuts? after screwing and unscrewing them they kinda loose there grip "bite". Also I'm already upgrading parts on the buggy ordered the alumi front hubs and front upper pin holder...expensive thats all i have to say about that one lol
Last edited:
hamz9561
Proud Short Bus Rider
Supporter
Military Veteran
I normally only use LocTite 242 or 244 (The blue medium strength) on metal to metal connections. Nylon lock nuts are cheap. I just replace them when the start to get loose.
I use locktight on everything but plastic threads. I really like the blue gel stuff. Stays tacky and helps keep screws from moving on you. Seems to work a lot better than the watery stuff. A bit easier to apply than the stick. I keep a stick in my pit bag though since it's so small.
derrick87
RCTalk Basher
- Thread starter
- #108
http://tinypic.com/r/w810mf/9
http://tinypic.com/r/9tk20j/9
Got some optional front aluminum hubs and upper mount holder. Much better then stock. Honestly i dont know why they wouldn't be in the kit for the price of it. Well iv been running it for almost a full gallon now. a few rolls and flips but nothing crazy. Still can't get a good tune on it just to cold out if i start leaning any of the needles it just dies or cuts out bogs etc.
http://tinypic.com/r/9tk20j/9
Got some optional front aluminum hubs and upper mount holder. Much better then stock. Honestly i dont know why they wouldn't be in the kit for the price of it. Well iv been running it for almost a full gallon now. a few rolls and flips but nothing crazy. Still can't get a good tune on it just to cold out if i start leaning any of the needles it just dies or cuts out bogs etc.
Looks nice and beefy.
