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New car, no start :/

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Yeah, i'll just have to play around with it. It didnt start when i got home, i have the glow plug starter charging, hope thats the problem like last time.
Okay be aware whwn you lean the idle too much, it will make the car go crazy no matter HOW much you idle trim it down on controller! Also if things don't ever work out, who knows you could have a bent needle
 
When it idles with no throttle being applied, (so you aren't touching the throttle trigger and the trim is set at its normal setting) is it rolling forward?
 
When it idles with no throttle being applied, (so you aren't touching the throttle trigger and the trim is set at its normal setting) is it rolling forward?
No its not, this time it's not the glow plug starter. I charged it and checked the glow plug and it glows red. So, now i just don't know what the problem is :(its not the weather bc i tried starting inside. Even tho it's not reaaly out anyway.
 
Hey guys I am very sorry for the post being super late I have been up to my ears in work and family things. However I am glad to say that the RC car is running and alive! I have performed two tanks of fuel for the break in and was wondering if the car was sounding good and healthy so I have posted a video. Also when the car is running for a while there seems to be smoke coming from the heat sync, is this normal or because of the cold weather outside.

Once again I am extremely sorry for the late post!

Link:

Thank you.
 
If your head is smoking you need to check your temps. That usually means it is too lean and overheating.
 
If your head is smoking you need to check your temps. That usually means it is too lean and overheating.
Okay I see next time I take it out I shall check the temperature, at what temperature should it be around and also what do I do if it is too lean?

Did everything else sound okay?
 
To lean and too rich refer to the ail/fuel mixture the engine is getting. Too lean is not enough fuel and too rich is too much fuel. You adjust this with the needles on the carb. You want to always be on the side of too rich in your tuning. The fuel lubricates and cools the engine. Open the high speed needle to richen the fuel mixture. As for temps I would shoot for 220-250F. Be patient. The parts in the engine are wearing in and it takes between 10-20 tanks before this is completed.

Read Read Read
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/
 
Hey guys I am very sorry for the post being super late I have been up to my ears in work and family things. However I am glad to say that the RC car is running and alive! I have performed two tanks of fuel for the break in and was wondering if the car was sounding good and healthy so I have posted a video. Also when the car is running for a while there seems to be smoke coming from the heat sync, is this normal or because of the cold weather outside.

Once again I am extremely sorry for the late post!

Link:

Thank you.
Wow! It's alive. The low end sounds lean with that "Ba,ba,ba,ba" I believe?
 
2 tanks is NOT broken in properly. You want to run at least 5 or 6 tanks for your break in period IMO. Both of the links posted here are full of useful info. You should take the time to read thru them and follow the suggested break in process. I can not stress enough how important the break in process is! It is imperative that you take your time, be patient and follow thru with the entire process. A proper break in will give you a long engine life, running strong and running right!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/

Read and follow those!
As far as the video goes... Your rig is running lean. There is no where near enough smoke for a rich tune for your break in. Your idle is also very high! Follow the guides and you should be able to get your buggy tuned correctly. When you've got the tune up set, post another video and we'll let you know our opinions and thoughts.
Good luck!

To get your tune set correctly, you need to start by centering your transmitter idle. Set the idle gap in the carb itself. The gap should be set to approximately 1mm. You can use a 1mm allen wrench or drill bit as a gauge. Follow the guides and you won't go wrong!
 
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Hey guys I am very sorry for the post being super late I have been up to my ears in work and family things. However I am glad to say that the RC car is running and alive! I have performed two tanks of fuel for the break in and was wondering if the car was sounding good and healthy so I have posted a video. Also when the car is running for a while there seems to be smoke coming from the heat sync, is this normal or because of the cold weather outside.

Once again I am extremely sorry for the late post!

Link:

Thank you.
Cool ,But I don't see enough smoke trail coming from the exhaust!
The engine sounds like its a little bit into a lean bog causing it to idle high an unstable!...It needs some fine tuning!....:cool:
 
You dont fine tune an engine with 2 tanks of fuel threw it. You keep it running rich and continue breaking it in. Heat in an engine comes from combustion and friction. Monitor your temps and they will fall as the friction goes away and the parts wear in. Then you can slowly lean it to maximum performance.

Well you can but I never do. I lean mine out to the point where they start well and have good power for bashing. I only retune if the temps change 20 degrees or so. I am not trying to have a race, just have some fun and make some noise.
 
You dont fine tune an engine with 2 tanks of fuel threw it. You keep it running rich and continue breaking it in. Heat in an engine comes from combustion and friction. Monitor your temps and they will fall as the friction goes away and the parts wear in. Then you can slowly lean it to maximum performance.

Still ,DONT see a smoke trail!

Still ,DONT see a smoke trail!
At a break in ,it should be wet an heavy!....:p
 
I have a hyper 7 and it likes to overheat. Melted the body a couple of times. Someday I will get back to it because I stole the servos to make something else run.
 
I have a hyper 7 and it likes to overheat. Melted the body a couple of times. Someday I will get back to it because I stole the servos to make something else run.

Lol... Ofna's like it ,an still takes a beating!...Too bad they don't make a come back with something new an kick everyones a$$ in
todays market!,,,:D

I have a hyper 7 and it likes to overheat. Melted the body a couple of times. Someday I will get back to it because I stole the servos to make something else run.

What is it? I have some xtra A-arms ,an if its a 21 engine ,I have a nice cooling head if you want it ...they are free!....:cool:
 
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Mine is a Hobao with a Mach .28. A arms are good. You have to change the front carriers to aluminum ones. They break really easy. MY first Nitro. It doesn't get run anymore. Would like to have this.
Hobao-Hyper-MT-ATSports-Plus-Review-1.jpg


Hyper-Mt-Sport-Plus-Nitro-Review-1.webp
 
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Mine is a Hobao with a Mach .28. A arms are good. You have to change the front carriers to aluminum ones. They break really easy. MY first Nitro. It doesn't get run anymore. Would like to have this.
Hobao-Hyper-MT-ATSports-Plus-Review-1.jpg
Mine is a Hobao with a Mach .28. A arms are good. You have to change the front carriers to aluminum ones. They break really easy. MY first Nitro. It doesn't get run anymore. Would like to have this.
Hobao-Hyper-MT-ATSports-Plus-Review-1.jpg

Ah .never seen that ,didn't know they came out with that!....Nice truck!...:thumbs-up:

I have a Nova race head for a 21 size an A-arms for the buggy!
 
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