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Remote start

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zeus r/c

RCTalk Qualifier
Messages
129
Reaction score
103
Points
145
Location
Houston, TX
RC Driving Style
  1. Racing
  2. Scale Builder
Anybody have any info on what i would need to do a remote start and has anybody put 1 on I'm tire of pullstart ez starts roto start and bump boxes i appreciate yalls feed back and keep burning nitro family
 
Well, the EZ start system would be the easiest way to do this. You would just need to find a battery that is small enough to fit on the car, but strong enough to run the ez start motor reliably/often and then wire the EZ start system to trigger from an aux channel on your transmitter.

But, by the time you do that and find a way to rig up another LiPo onto a nitro car that's already very limited on space (with additional LVC) and go through all that effort; you gotta ask yourself... should you just go electric at that point? I mean you're already going through the hassle of more batteries... might as well fully commit at that point. That's just my opinion though and I'm a big fan of pull starts for that reason alone. My personal feelings aside, if this is something you want to experiment with, it should be very easy to do in theory.
 
The wolunstart system is out there, I have one and it's nicely made. It's a gearbox & motor that replaces the pull start, and a driver board that connects to your remote and uses an accessory channel, and also has a voltage converter so you can use a little 3S lipo to drive the starter with 12V and also power the radio & servos with 5V, replacing your receiver battery with a 500-850mah lipo.

However, the engine has to be broken in and easy to start by hand first. I think your frustrations might not be with the starting process as much as they are with the break-in and tuning process, which no starter can replace. I yanked the pull start on my first nitro until my fingers were bleeding from hitting the cooling fins, but once you have it tuned and broken in, you're basically just giving it a flick to start it.

My first advice if you're having trouble starting is to open up the idle gap or even set the throttle a little high. Nitro planes are usually started with the throttle stick bumped up a little on the remote since it holds whatever you set it to, car/truck nitros are handicapped by their springy throttle return - starting a cold nitro engine at idle throttle setting is very difficult if not downright impossible. Many remotes offer an "idle up" setting or similar that lets you map a switch to bump the throttle up a little for starting.

Preheating practically guarantees success, I use a battery powered heat gun to get the engine at least "body temperature", the hotter the better.

Almost everyone getting into nitros goes through the same experience of wondering why they are so hard to start and why people would put themselves through that much hassle, but once you're past the initial challenges of getting the engine started reliably, it becomes less of an ordeal.

Quick clip of the wolunstart I did:
 
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Well, the EZ start system would be the easiest way to do this. You would just need to find a battery that is small enough to fit on the car, but strong enough to run the ez start motor reliably/often and then wire the EZ start system to trigger from an aux channel on your transmitter.

But, by the time you do that and find a way to rig up another LiPo onto a nitro car that's already very limited on space (with additional LVC) and go through all that effort; you gotta ask yourself... should you just go electric at that point? I mean you're already going through the hassle of more batteries... might as well fully commit at that point. That's just my opinion though and I'm a big fan of pull starts for that reason alone. My personal feelings aside, if this is something you want to experiment with, it should be very easy to do in theory.
I will never go electric as theres more problems with it than gas you dont need another battery if you have a bug enough 1 for your servos and the remote start thanks tho appreciate it friend
 
I will never go electric as theres more problems with it than gas
I've never heard anyone say that before. The simplicity of electrics is the best part for me and I work on gas engines for a living. Not knocking it, to each their own. Good luck on your endeavor.
 
I will never go electric as theres more problems with it than gas you dont need another battery if you have a bug enough 1 for your servos and the remote start thanks tho appreciate it friend
More power to ya. Beauty of this hobby is the variety in choices that we get. Electric, nitro, slow, fast, low, etc. I’ll be interested to see how you do this and good luck!
 
Almost everyone getting into nitros goes through the same experience of wondering why they are so hard to start and why people would put themselves through that much hassle, but once you're past the initial challenges of getting the engine started reliably, it becomes less of an ordeal.
That’s the truth… My first nitro (Savage X with a XTM 457) years ago left blisters between my fingers for months from the pull start. I also get really good at restringing pull starts using canabalized paracord. 🤣

One day tuning and proper technique to not over pull the pull start just clicked. Aside from the initial first start of the summer, they all start first or second pull now.
 
I've never heard anyone say that before. The simplicity of electrics is the best part for me and I work on gas engines for a living. Not knocking it, to each their own. Good luck on your endeavor.
So what do you do when you esc and motor both burn catch on fire good sir all I'm saying is i dont have to worry about the electronics catching on fire with my nitro trucks I've seen alot of peoples electronics go up in flames where mines does not it jsut shuts off i will have good luch on my endeavor thx sir
 
So what do you do when you esc and motor both burn catch on fire good sir all I'm saying is i dont have to worry about the electronics catching on fire with my nitro trucks I've seen alot of peoples electronics go up in flames where mines does not it jsut shuts off i will have good luch on my endeavor thx sir
I've operated over 50 battery powered RC's in my time and currently running about 25. Of all of those, only 1 cought fire and it was a defective esc that the manufacturer warrantied, including everything damaged by the fire.

I believe electric RC's have an extremely low risk of fire if you use them properly. Mainly referring to lipo care. Its a shame to rule out electric RC's because of a 1 in a million chance of a fire but to each their own.
 
So what do you do when you esc and motor both burn catch on fire good sir all I'm saying is i dont have to worry about the electronics catching on fire with my nitro trucks I've seen alot of peoples electronics go up in flames where mines does not it jsut shuts off i will have good luch on my endeavor thx sir
In the 16 off and on years of being in this hobby, running primarily electric trucks. I’ve had one ESC go up in a fire and that was because I wired a connector backwards. Something you could still absolutely do with a receiver pack on a nitro.

somthing to consider and this can be carried int a lot of things in life… not just RC. Electric RC’s at this point are the vast majority of the market share. Nitro’s are a very very very small percentage of that and have been for a while now. When there is more of something in the hands of consumers, you will hear more about it. Doesn’t mean that “problems” are nearly as prevalent as they sound.

I'm in no way attempting you convert you from Nitro. We need more folks interested in that aspect of the hobby to keep it alive. I’m just attempting to ease your (and whoever stumbles across this thread) concerns.
 
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I've operated over 50 battery powered RC's in my time and currently running about 25. Of all of those, only 1 cought fire and it was a defective esc that the manufacturer warrantied, including everything damaged by the fire.

I believe electric RC's have an extremely low risk of fire if you use them properly. Mainly referring to lipo care. Its a shame to rule out electric RC's because of a 1 in a million chance of a fire but to each their own.
Bro I've seen more than just 1 battery and more than 1 rig go up in flames bud
 
The funny thing about remote start in this case is that it would require an onboard lipo battery for the starter, so you'd have to deal with lipo balancing, storage & general safety in addition to running nitro. I found it fun but not really a practical solution for a "for fun" nitro, more of an engineering / shelf queen trophy, a bump box is my favorite solution for "easy" starting. I've never had a preheated engine fail to start after a quick tap on the bump box.
 
The wolunstart system is out there, I have one and it's nicely made. It's a gearbox & motor that replaces the pull start, and a driver board that connects to your remote and uses an accessory channel, and also has a voltage converter so you can use a little 3S lipo to drive the starter with 12V and also power the radio & servos with 5V, replacing your receiver battery with a 500-850mah lipo.

However, the engine has to be broken in and easy to start by hand first. I think your frustrations might not be with the starting process as much as they are with the break-in and tuning process, which no starter can replace. I yanked the pull start on my first nitro until my fingers were bleeding from hitting the cooling fins, but once you have it tuned and broken in, you're basically just giving it a flick to start it.

My first advice if you're having trouble starting is to open up the idle gap or even set the throttle a little high. Nitro planes are usually started with the throttle stick bumped up a little on the remote since it holds whatever you set it to, car/truck nitros are handicapped by their springy throttle return - starting a cold nitro engine at idle throttle setting is very difficult if not downright impossible. Many remotes offer an "idle up" setting or similar that lets you map a switch to bump the throttle up a little for starting.

Preheating practically guarantees success, I use a battery powered heat gun to get the engine at least "body temperature", the hotter the better.

Almost everyone getting into nitros goes through the same experience of wondering why they are so hard to start and why people would put themselves through that much hassle, but once you're past the initial challenges of getting the engine started reliably, it becomes less of an ordeal.

Quick clip of the wolunstart I did:
Hey I'm really just tired of pullstart and carrying a bump box and a roto start all my engines are broke in juat have really good compression they are all tuned as well was just wanting a lazy way out of starting up my rigs i appreciate your feed back do you mind listing the parts i will need or that you used to do your remote start i would greatly appre iate that feed back their are so many people on here that havw negative feed about and I'm not looking for thay kind of feed back only positive feed back and help
 
Hey I'm really just tired of pullstart and carrying a bump box and a roto start all my engines are broke in juat have really good compression they are all tuned as well was just wanting a lazy way out of starting up my rigs i appreciate your feed back do you mind listing the parts i will need or that you used to do your remote start i would greatly appre iate that feed back their are so many people on here that havw negative feed about and I'm not looking for thay kind of feed back only positive feed back and help

If you have a small block you'll want this version, and that's basically all you need. I changed the connector on mine to a smaller one to fit in the battery bay more easily, and an 800-1000mah 3S lipo. I was able to stuff the battery, receiver, and control board into an HSP radio tray, just barely. It replaces the power switch and receiver battery, so once you're done it is just matter of putting the battery in, fueling up, priming, (preheating because I still like to), and then a quick crank and its running. Also very easy to refuel & restart to keep running all day.

You'll need to run wires from the radio tray to the starter, engine mount, and glow plug, so it takes a little planning to make it neat.
 
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If you have a small block you'll want this version, and that's basically all you need. I changed the connector on mine to a smaller one to fit in the battery bay more easily, and an 800-1000mah 3S lipo. I was able to stuff the battery, receiver, and control board into an HSP radio tray, just barely. It replaces the power switch and receiver battery, so once you're done it is just matter of putting the battery in, fueling up, priming, (preheating because I still like to), and then a quick crank and its running. Also very easy to refuel & restart to keep running all day.

You'll need to run wires from the radio tray to the starter, engine mount, and glow plug, so it takes a little planning to make it neat.
I see you sent something along with your message but it didnt not come thru also i have big and small blocks
 
I see you sent something along with your message but it didnt not come thru also i have big and small blocks
sorry about that, didn't link right.

small block version

big block version

Those include the control boards. They have diagrams with the backplate spacing, make sure it's a match to your engine before spending that much $...
 
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