New car, no start :/

[SpontaniousCombustion]

My new Hyper SS RTR Cage 28. came today and I was happy and great because it's my first new nitro RC car I have literally been waiting weeks for this thing. Brand new car.

When it came I finally got it all set up as I thought I should and how tutorials showed me and the car just does not start... Fresh fuel... Fresh car... I messed with the carb setting and eventually the car ran for 2 or 3 second but then cut out. The car couldn't even make it the full idle tank of the break in procedure. However upon me consitantly changing them to keep the engine running I eventually messed it up.

Because I messed it up I went to look in the manual for the factory settings and the only manual I had was how to assemble to car from scratch, not written guide or anything so I had to look online for the engine manual and I have reset them to what I think is the factory settings again.

Another question I was curious to ask was, how tight should my glowplug be because sometimes I am finding it difficult to pull the pull start.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

The glow plug should be a little loose and maybe if you heat up the engine with a dryer or heat gut, It might work if it's cold outside

My new Hyper SS RTR Cage 28. came today and I was happy and great because it's my first new nitro RC car I have literally been waiting weeks for this thing. Brand new car.

When it came I finally got it all set up as I thought I should and how tutorials showed me and the car just does not start... Fresh fuel... Fresh car... I messed with the carb setting and eventually the car ran for 2 or 3 second but then cut out. The car couldn't even make it the full idle tank of the break in procedure. However upon me consitantly changing them to keep the engine running I eventually messed it up.

Because I messed it up I went to look in the manual for the factory settings and the only manual I had was how to assemble to car from scratch, not written guide or anything so I had to look online for the engine manual and I have reset them to what I think is the factory settings again.

Another question I was curious to ask was, how tight should my glowplug be because sometimes I am finding it difficult to pull the pull start.

The glow plug should be a little loose, and the settings need to be rich for the break in. If it is cold outside you can use a heat gun or blow dryer?

 

[WVNed]

http://ofna.com/pdf/14357-hyper-ss-cage-rtr.pdf
http://ofna.com/pdf/14357-hyper-ss-cage-rtr.pdf
High speed needle 3 1/2 turns from closed. Low speed needle flush with carb. Page 2 of the manual I linked. Get the engine hot to start it. I used a heat gun.

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

http://ofna.com/pdf/14357-hyper-ss-cage-rtr.pdf
High speed needle 3 1/2 turns from closed. Low speed needle flush with carb. Page 2 of the manual I linked. Get the engine hot to start it. I used a heat gun.

Thank you very much, and to you also Mr.madfireMoe. I shall try these new settings when I am home after work and will let you guys know of the results. How comes I didn't get a proper manual with the car like the manual you linked.

Thank you.

 

[cbaker65]

Thank you very much, and to you also Mr.madfireMoe. I shall try these new settings when I am home after work and will let you guys know of the results. How comes I didn't get a proper manual with the car like the manual you linked.

Thank you.

Usually name brand Rc's come with a separate engine manual !

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

Okay, I reset both of the needles to the factory setting. Tuned the HSN 3 1/2 turns counterclockwise and I also turn the LSN so that it was flush with its housing. I heated up the engine with a hairdryer as best as I could, the engine reached a temperature of at least 80 degrees inside and when I heated the engine outside due to it cooling (Cold outside, welcome to England) it could only reach a temperature of around 50 degrees. However, when I tried to start the car, the same thing happened as before, it didn't start. Where the exhaust pipe attaches the engine there was a tinsy winsy gap no bigger than 1mm I was wondering if this could be part of the problems. I adjusted it as best as I could and I think I managed to sort that issue out, hopefully it won't re-occour.

I have recorded a little video so that you can see the problem for yourself and I have also uploaded a photo of the idle gap to see if this look correct to you guys.

Apologize for the bad quality photo, I hope you can see.

Thank you.

 

[cbaker65]

Ok ,is the glo-ignite charged an lighting up the glo-plug & also is there fuel getting to carb?
If your fuel line is a clear fuel line ,you should be able to see the fuel flow through the line while
you plug the exhaust pipe with your finger an pull the motor over at the same time ,this is
how I prime my engine.
Once it starts ,you have to keep bleeping the throttle to keep it running because an engine will
not idle at that rich setting ,it loads up an will die.

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

Ok ,is the glo-ignite charged an lighting up the glo-plug & also is there fuel getting to carb?
If your fuel line is a clear fuel line ,you should be able to see the fuel flow through the line while
you plug the exhaust pipe with your finger an pull the motor over at the same time ,this is
how I prime my engine.
Once it starts ,you have to keep bleeping the throttle to keep it running because an engine will
not idle at that rich setting ,it loads up an will die.

The glow ignitor is charged yes and I can also see fuel travel along the fuel lines and into the engine. Unfortunately I cannot even get the car to start.

 

[cbaker65]

The glow ignitor is charged yes and I can also see fuel travel along the fuel lines and into the engine. Unfortunately I cannot even get the car to start.

Yes ,I know you can't start it!....

It also maybe flooded ,because it is on a heavy rich setting.
Take the glo-plug out an get a tissue an hold the tissue over the plug hole an crank the starter to see if it wets
the tissue!....Or turn the truck upside down an pull the starter.
I'm just trying to help you trouble shoot the problem at this point!

 

[WVNed]

Heat the engine as hot as you can get it. Take the pressure line off of the pipe and blow into it to prime the carb. You should see the fuel flow into the carb in the fuel line. Then try to start it. Keep in mind you are not winding it up. When you pull it you want it to fire. Pulling more than 5 times is a waste of effort if it isnt hitting. After you get the fuel to the carb you can get more fuel into the engine by blocking the exhaust with a finger and pulling the starter a few times. If your glow driver and glow plug are good it will start. It may take pull pull pull cover the exhaust pull pull open the exhaust pull pull pull. If it hits it will burn the fuel out and you may have to pull a little more in by blocking the exhaust and pulling 2 times.

Not sure about the exhaust gap. The rear of the cylinder has a tube coming out. That should have a rubber ring on it that seals inside the end of the exhaust. A gap between the pipe and cylinder is ok as long as the rubber gasket is there.

On a new engine it is common to have fuel running out of the exhaust pipe before it ever starts.

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

Yes ,I know you can't start it!....

It also maybe flooded ,because it is on a heavy rich setting.
Take the glo-plug out an get a tissue an hold the tissue over the plug hole an crank the starter to see if it wets
the tissue!....Or turn the truck upside down an pull the starter.
I'm just trying to help you trouble shoot the problem at this point!

I made sure the engine wasn't flooded by doing the procedure and I was happy that it wasn't clear. Apologize for the snappy response, this "NEW" car hasn't even run yet and cost quite a bit of money and it hasn't even had the wheels turn yet.

Heat the engine as hot as you can get it. Take the pressure line off of the pipe and blow into it to prime the carb. You should see the fuel flow into the carb in the fuel line. Then try to start it. Keep in mind you are not winding it up. When you pull it you want it to fire. Pulling more than 5 times is a waste of effort if it isnt hitting. After you get the fuel to the carb you can get more fuel into the engine by blocking the exhaust with a finger and pulling the starter a few times. If your glow driver and glow plug are good it will start.
Not sure about the exhaust gap. The rear of the cylinder has a tube coming out. That should have a rubber ring on it that seals inside the end of the exhaust. A gap between the pipe and cylinder is ok as long as the rubber gasket is there.

On a new engine it is common to have fuel running out of the exhaust pipe before it ever starts.

Today I came home and I primed the engine and saw the fuel go into the carburetor then pulled the pull start a few more times to lubricate the engine. Once I had done this, I heated up the engine and tried to start it and the car wasn't having any of it and still refused to start. What do you mean by "Keep in mind you're not winding it up."

(Sorry if it sounds as if I have no idea what's going on, I am relatively new to this sport and it's my first car.)

Thank you.

 

[WVNed]

I mean pulling it will not make it start by itself. It is an engine. It must have fuel spark and compression to start. If you are pulling and it isnt hitting, pulling it more is tiring and frustrating. With a new engine and a good glow plug then it has to be fuel. Too little or too much. I am betting too little. Try covering the exhaust pipe with a finger and pulling it a few times to suck fuel into the engine. It will seem very wet before it starts.
My first Nitro was an OFNA Hyper 7 and yes I had a hard time with it.

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

I mean pulling it will not make it start by itself. It is an engine. It must have fuel spark and compression to start. If you are pulling and it isnt hitting, pulling it more is tiring and frustrating. With a new engine and a good glow plug then it has to be fuel. Too little or too much. I am betting too little. Try covering the exhaust pipe with a finger and pulling it a few times to suck fuel into the engine. It will seem very wet before it starts.
My first Nitro was an OFNA Hyper 7 and yes I had a hard time with it.

Okay so you think that I should prime the engine a bit more and then do the exhaust pipe... finger test thing? I stop pulling the cord as soon as the engine touches the carburetor. I will have to try after work tomorrow now as it is late where I live.

 

[WVNed]

Covering the opening in the exhaust and pulling the starter causes a strong suction on the carb and will pull fuel into the engine. The carb on these engines passes fuel and air into the crankcase. The fuel/air in the case is forced into the head by the piston going up and down. By the time you get enough into the head for it to run some will be running out the tailpipe.

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

Covering the opening in the exhaust and pulling the starter causes a strong suction on the carb and will pull fuel into the engine. The carb on these engines passes fuel and air into the crankcase. The fuel/air in the case is forced into the head by the piston going up and down. By the time you get enough into the head for it to run some will be running out the tailpipe.

Okay I understand this, I just have two questions to ask before I do this tomorrow, sorry if they sound stupid but hey I'm learning. If I do this too much will I flood the engine and if so, do I have to drain it and then re-prime the car?

 

[WVNed]

Yes you can flood it. It will be really hard to pull. Just remove the glow plug and pull the starter several times to clear it then put it back in. It will not need reprimed. This is something you get a feel for and all engines are a little different. I have some that getting fuel to the carb will start and some that have to be sloppy wet before they will go.
The heat is really important. It does 2 things. It loosens the mechanical parts reducing the friction in a new engine and it helps vaporize the fuel. I would not pull it more than 15 times without reheating it. Can you get the car up off the ground on a table or something and set it on a brick or wood block so the wheels are free? This makes it a lot better. I have a piece of 4x6 wooden post I use on a concrete planter on my porch. I have electric there for the heat gun too.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

After doing all this, I hope you get the chance to use it. Need more help?

When you get it running, make sure you keep the glow igniter in for a little while, and don't run it. It helps if you pull the throttle out a little reving it instead of doing it on the trigger/trim

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

Yes you can flood it. It will be really hard to pull. Just remove the glow plug and pull the starter several times to clear it then put it back in. It will not need reprimed. This is something you get a feel for and all engines are a little different. I have some that getting fuel to the carb will start and some that have to be sloppy wet before they will go.
The heat is really important. It does 2 things. It loosens the mechanical parts reducing the friction in a new engine and it helps vaporize the fuel. I would not pull it more than 15 times without reheating it. Can you get the car up off the ground on a table or something and set it on a brick or wood block so the wheels are free? This makes it a lot better. I have a piece of 4x6 wooden post I use on a concrete planter on my porch. I have electric there for the heat gun too.

Okay thank you for all this information, I actually feel as if I am slowly but surely learning. I will try this when I get home later today and let you know of the results. I think today I shall use a heatgun to heat the engine too rather than a hairdryer.

After doing all this, I hope you get the chance to use it. Need more help?

When you get it running, make sure you keep the glow igniter in for a little while, and don't run it. It helps if you pull the throttle out a little reving it instead of doing it on the trigger/trim

Thank you Madfire, it is so frustrating. I've watched 1 million videos and everyone is able to start their car at least but I suppose you can't master everything first time . I will also try your advice tonight when I get home.

Thank you both for being patient with me and not loosing your rag xD

 

[Certified Mike]

You have a TON of info flying at you, I don't want to overwhelm. I want to add a couple things that you can check. First, be sure that the punch bolt that holds the carb in place is tight. You don't want to torque it crazy but you do need to be sure that the carb can't be twisted around on the neck of the engine. Second, you need to be sure that you have the carb idle set. You seem to be in touch with this idea so forgive me for being repetitive...
Before doing all Other adjustments, the idle setting comes first. You want to Get it set at approx 1mm. To do this, you can use a 1mm Allen wrench as your tapping tool. I am not familiar with where this adjustment is in your carb but it should be reasonably easy to find as you are already familiar with the other adjustment needle locations. By your pic posted, I'm assuming you have that located now anyways. Unfortunately, I am unable to get a clear idea of where your setting is. My phone just won't make it clear enough.
Always be sure that your igniter battery is fully charged as well. Replace or recharge as necessary.
Check to be sure your clutch is spinning freely. You don't want ANY binding. No movement of the drivetrain when you are pulling the starter, freewheeling when checking by hand. This will put a load on your motor which is obviously having enough of a hard time running already.
Finally, we have established that your fuel is new. What kind of fuel is It and what percent is It? Just need to be sure you've got a good quality fuel and that It is proper for a car and is not for aircraft.
You've got plenty of good advise so I am trying some alternative ideas. It seems we need to go back to the basics.
Good luck!!!

 

[SpontaniousCombustion]

You have a TON of info flying at you, I don't want to overwhelm. I want to add a couple things that you can check. First, be sure that the punch bolt that holds the carb in place is tight. You don't want to torque it crazy but you do need to be sure that the carb can't be twisted around on the neck of the engine. Second, you need to be sure that you have the carb idle set. You seem to be in touch with this idea so forgive me for being repetitive...
Before doing all Other adjustments, the idle setting comes first. You want to Get it set at approx 1mm. To do this, you can use a 1mm Allen wrench as your tapping tool. I am not familiar with where this adjustment is in your carb but it should be reasonably easy to find as you are already familiar with the other adjustment needle locations. By your pic posted, I'm assuming you have that located now anyways. Unfortunately, I am unable to get a clear idea of where your setting is. My phone just won't make it clear enough.
Always be sure that your igniter battery is fully charged as well. Replace or recharge as necessary.
Check to be sure your clutch is spinning freely. You don't want ANY binding. No movement of the drivetrain when you are pulling the starter, freewheeling when checking by hand. This will put a load on your motor which is obviously having enough of a hard time running already.
Finally, we have established that your fuel is new. What kind of fuel is It and what percent is It? Just need to be sure you've got a good quality fuel and that It is proper for a car and is not for aircraft.
You've got plenty of good advise so I am trying some alternative ideas. It seems we need to go back to the basics.
Good luck!!!

Woah thank you for all this information! I've checked the idle and it is 1mm open from what I can tell, I will try upload a better picture when I am home the glow ignitor was charged over night and I check this by placing it on the glow plug itself and it gave a good glow My fuel is a 25% nitro mix and is called "Modelsport professional 25 nitro fuel" I am new to engines altogether really and know the very minimum about them so thank you for being as informative as you can I really appreciate it