new car binding

[wh456]

I got my 1/12 rig and it works ok....I noticed that whenever you remove the battery you basically have to rebind again?..when you store your car for a few days do you bother to turn the receiver off, if you don't I guess it uses a small amount of battery..? Do you bother or just shut off the transmitter and leave the receiver alone? That little button can't be accessed unless you take the top off.... just wondering a few things....new to rc cars...

 

[Relimar]

I got my 1/12 rig and it works ok....I noticed that whenever you remove the battery you basically have to rebind again?..when you store your car for a few days do you bother to turn the receiver off, if you don't I guess it uses a small amount of battery..? Do you bother or just shut off the transmitter and leave the receiver alone? That little button can't be accessed unless you take the top off.... just wondering a few things....new to rc cars...

It is unusual for the Receiver (Rx) in the vehicle to drop the Transmitter/controller/radio (Tx) when powered down. Troubleshooting steps entirely depend on what brand of vehicle or Rx/Tx you're talking about. No, you should not need to leave your Rx or Tx powered to keep the bind between them. When binding the Rx stores the Tx signal data with EEPROM or flash memory which retains the data even when powered off.

 

[Doom!]

You should always power down the rc before removing the battery, which is advisable. Sure sometimes you wan't to be lazy but don't start bad habits.

Also make sure you are turning off the power to the rc itself before turning off the radio. And turning on the radio before turning on the power to the rc when starting up. If you don't use the right start up and shutdown sequence the Speed controller doesn't know what it's supposed to do because it's not getting a signal from the transmitter. This can lead to some adverse effects.

 

[RustyUs]

I got my 1/12 rig and it works ok....I noticed that whenever you remove the battery you basically have to rebind again?..when you store your car for a few days do you bother to turn the receiver off, if you don't I guess it uses a small amount of battery..? Do you bother or just shut off the transmitter and leave the receiver alone? That little button can't be accessed unless you take the top off.... just wondering a few things....new to rc cars...

I'm not sure, because of the wording, if you are saying you have to rebind each time you turn the RC off, or asking if you should rebind each time. If you have to bind the radio and receiver every time you want to play, you got a lemon of an RC.

What is the mystery RC and radio that you're talking about?

 

[wh456]

also those little cotter pins to hold on the cars cover....kind of a pain...what mods do you do to improve that?

 

[Doom!]

you mean turn off the pistol first then the receiver...

yes and the reverse of that when turning it on. Lots to absorb when you are starting out but soon it will all be second nature.

 

[Relimar]

also those little cotter pins to hold on the cars cover....kind of a pain...what mods do you do to improve that?

They make body clips with tabs. https://www.amainhobbies.com/axial-scx24-3mm-body-clip-w-tab-10-axi206000/p1056007

You will get a more relevant help here if you say what brand/type of rc vehicle you have. There's only so much we can do with generic and applicable to every rc answers.

 

[wh456]

HaiBoxing 1/12
I will only use this car for easy go/training purposes. Nothing more. So I would like to add the second battery to the first in parallel onboard. I don't care about hacking up the body. I can cut out the driver torso and fit the 2nd battery in there. I need a 2 into 1 adaptor for this connector(pic). I don't know if it will have to have the white one too...? What would you use cheap??? I don't mind making one up if I have too....

 

[Relimar]

That is a 2S (2 cell) LiPo battery (8.4 volts) with a Deans/"T" connector on it (the larger maroon plug) The white plug is the balance lead, used when charging to ensure the charger keeps the cells even with each other. A LiPo cell in storage mode (low power) is ~3.83v per cell, a fully charged LiPo is 4.2 volts per cell, you then multiply by how many cells and that's the voltage the battery is providing. Whether the ESC can handle it is another question, 3S is 12.6 volts, 6S is 25.2 volts etc. Without knowing the specific model 1/12 scale Hai-boxing, it shipped with a 2S LiPo, so I'm going to assume it's one of the 2S models. Meaning, the ESC (Electronic Speed Control - little box with all the wires and heat sinks) of your truck can only handle 2S (8.4v).

TL;DR: If you want longer run-time, you need to look for a battery with a higher mAh rating (milliamp hours). example: 2S 450mAh vs 2S 6500mAh, both 2S (8.4v). For a simple explanation, you can't run additional batteries, you just need a higher density/ more mAh and still remain at 2S cell count/ 8.4 volts, and make sure the physical battery fits in the battery tray.

 

[RustyUs]

also those little cotter pins to hold on the cars cover....kind of a pain...what mods do you do to improve that?

How to make pull tabs on your body clips/pins

 

[wh456]

That is a 2S (2 cell) LiPo battery (8.4 volts) with a Deans/"T" connector on it (the larger maroon plug) The white plug is the balance lead, used when charging to ensure the charger keeps the cells even with each other. A LiPo cell in storage mode (low power) is ~3.83v per cell, a fully charged LiPo is 4.2 volts per cell, you then multiply by how many cells and that's the voltage the battery is providing. Whether the ESC can handle it is another question, 3S is 12.6 volts, 6S is 25.2 volts etc. Without knowing the specific model 1/12 scale Hai-boxing, it shipped with a 2S LiPo, so I'm going to assume it's one of the 2S models. Meaning, the ESC (Electronic Speed Control - little box with all the wires and heat sinks) of your truck can only handle 2S (8.4v).

TL;DR: If you want longer run-time, you need to look for a battery with a higher mAh rating (milliamp hours). example: 2S 450mAh vs 2S 6500mAh, both 2S (8.4v). For a simple explanation, you can't run additional batteries, you just need a higher density/ more mAh and still remain at 2S cell count/ 8.4 volts, and make sure the physical battery fits in the battery tray.

in parallel ,pos to pos/neg to neg/the voltage stays the same...but if both white plugs were joined I think it would mess up the balancing since the charger can only have 1 value...
no big deal to swap batteries I guess....

 

[RustyUs]

in parallel ,pos to pos/neg to neg/the voltage stays the same...but if both white plugs were joined I think it would mess up the balancing since the charger can only have 1 value...
no big deal to swap batteries I guess....

Instead of trying to rewire your ESC to run two packs in parallel, I'd use the time in between battery packs to check over your RC for loose items and let motor cool down. With a proper charger and a couple of battery packs, a person could run their RC practically all day long swapping battery packs. I say get comfortable with your new RC and enjoy it as is.

 

[Relimar]

in parallel ,pos to pos/neg to neg/the voltage stays the same...but if both white plugs were joined I think it would mess up the balancing since the charger can only have 1 value...
no big deal to swap batteries I guess....

Yes that is correct, but its very rarely done in an rc application and opens up other issues - where to put the battery, quality of the connections etc. Many Arrma vehicles run a jumper plug to run batteries in series for example, two 3S to get 6S, two 4S to get 8S etc, but it's thick wire, good solder joints, a second battery compartment, and now the batteries are mated for life. You're much better off with a higher density battery or 2-3 additional ones for the outing. The balance plugs are only used for the charger to read cell voltage, they're not used when running the truck or used for any parallel/series shenanigans.

I get where you're going with this, but upgrading the esc/motor to 3-4S, better batteries etc is an easier path forward to a faster/longer running truck.

 

[22SSragtop]

also I did not see it mentioned... a hobby grade battery charger like the gens_ace__d300 would make all the difference, besides safer and faster charging, a true storage mode charger as well as giving you cell status via the mentioned balance cable. As mentioned doubling of trippling the size of the original pack is much more efficent regarding getting additional run time. Last but not least, I hate those pins as well and have used magnets to make my bodies easily click on and off, velcro as well for a no pins body solution.