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Looking for my first kit... Rock bouncer/trail runner/crawler all in one. H10 Optic?

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I ordered Vanquish 2.2" Riot wheels and 5.1" Yokohama Geolander M/T tires. Maybe not quite scale-looking, but I'm hoping that will be a good all-around combo.

I changed my wheels/tires choices. The tires were out of stock and I also had a change of heart (budget-driven). The order was not yet fulfilled so it was easy to change.

As a newbie builder, I didn't realize the price for the Vanquish wheels was per two, not four, and that I would also need SLW hubs (also sold as pairs, so X2) and screw kits for the hubs (also X2). And the optional scale hub covers and trim rings were pricey as well. Nice stuff, for sure, but my order for completion parts and supplies was starting to exceed the kit cost. I had also chosen a selection of paints I wanted to have for painting some of the nice scale details the Optic has, but are molded in plain black, and some new tools.

I now chose Injora deep dish beadlock wheels and JConcepts Tusk tires at substantially less cost than my original Vanquish choices. I also switched sizes back down to the recommended 1.9" wheels and 4.75" tall tires as my Optic will be a general purpose trail runner, not a dedicated crawler, and I prefer a more scale look. I can always buy a second set of larger wheels and tires later on if desired.

Everything should be here by the end of the week and I'll be able to get started building. 🤓
 
Finished on the first day of 2026...

I just need to install the radio. I have a Flysky (autocorrect changed that to "fleshy" 😄) GT-3B that I've had very good luck with. I've read complaints of limited range with that radio but I've run mine in a fast electric boat a LONG ways out with no troubles. I only need two channels, and the GT-3B has end-point adjustment, exponential, etc. I can get a receiver for ten or fifteen bucks.

Or, is there something else (inexpensive) that would be a better choice?

Have a safe and happy 2026!

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All put together that green actually looks pretty good.
It wouldn't have been my first choice, but I'm starting to like it. I just wish it was a more authentic livery... Huf doesn't sponsor an Ultra4 buggy, as far as I know. The cool thing is, there's always the option to get new body panels and change it out or customize it.

The kit was fantastic. As a first-time kit builder, there were a few times when I was a bit nervous but there were no missing parts, the instructions were very good (only needed another diagram or two to be "excellent") and it went together perfectly. I'd reccomend it...
 
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That's pretty cool. :thumbs-up: I did some painting on the scale details that came with the kit, and I'm happy with it.
 
It looks good! Dig the wheel choice
Thanks. I'm happy with the wheels. They were inexpensive Injoras from Amazon. Providing they hold the bead well in use, I'd buy them again.

I now realize I took the photos before I was finished putting on all of the graphics; I still had a few to put on the hood. I was going to put on my old motorcycle roadrace number (205) but decided to use "126" since I completed the kit in January of 2026. Unfortunately, I think the Huf sticker sheet's number 6 looks more like a lower case "b" than a six. When I look at at, I see "12b" instead of 126. 😄

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While I'm waiting for my receiver for the Optic, I popped in a spare 2-channel Rx from another model so I could program the Quicrun Fusion Pro ESC. The print on the program card sticker was a challenge for my aging eyes. I referred to an enlarged image of the ESC manual on my notebook.

I didn't really see much I wanted to change. I would like to calm down the transition from Forward to Reverse if that's possible. Is that done using the "Max Reverse Force" and "Neutral Range" settings? My throttle finger has good control when squeezing for throttle up, but my transitions to reverse are usually slightly out of control. 😳 I'm hoping it's something I can help with ESC programming as I learn better control of my throttle finger activating reverse.

Otherwise, all was good with the new Optic. I had to add some steering trim so I took off the drag link and adjusted its length to zero out the steering. The only real issue I had wasn't with the model, but with my newbie tire mounting skill. Two were perfect but two had some nasty wobble. I took them off and remounted the tires. Now I have three perfect and one still wobbling a bit. I've had enough beadlock tire mounting for one day, so I'll try that one again later on.

One minor issue with my assembly that was easy to deal with, luckily: I had already stuck down the ESC switch on the electronics tray before I remembered I'd need access to it for programming. I tried taking off the cage and body by removing the shock top screws and the three screws on each bottom side of the chassis, but that didn't allow the cage to come off easily like I've seen in some videos. I reached in from the side with hemostats to pull off the rubber programming port cover on the ESC switch and plug in the supplied extension. I might leave the extension attached for future easy access.

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Beadlocks get easier with experience, just take your time as you go. Sometimes getting one side to seat properly can be frustrating, when you finally get it, then realize the other side popped out. :eek:
 
I totally feel you there! I have a set on my table that I haven't put together because they're brutal. It also seems that every time I go to the indoor center I am popping a bead on one of my rigs, it's become a ritual.

Breaks are important when we realize we're not having fun 😊
 
My new FlySky FS-GR3E receiver showed up today and it doesn't work properly in the Optic.

It was able to bind normally to my FlySky FS-GT-3B transmitter. When installed in the Optic (with QuicRun Fusion Pro2300kv motor/ESC combo), The steering worked fine but the throttle was weird... it wanted to run much faster in reverse than forward and was running the driveline backwards.

I checked all the settings on the GT-3B and end points were 100%, no channels were reversed, trims were all at 0, dual rates were at 100%. I checked to be sure both the Tx and Rx were labeled as AFHDS.

I used the program card to reverse the engine rotation on the ESC and tried again. Things were turning in the right direction now, but reverse was now violently cogging/stuttering. I started again and used the program card to set the throttle back to normal and reversed it on the transmitter instead. It was still messed up with reverse cogging and stuttering violently. I was able to adjust the steering end points and trim on the Tx, and it responded normally.

I tried re-binding the receiver and had the same results. So, I pulled the receiver and installed it in my Team Associated MT10. Everything worked perfectly.

Am I missing something obvious or does this older FlySky radio just not want to play nice with the Hobby Wing ESC? In any event, I'll order a new radio set. I have a bunch already but none except the FS GT-3B allow for multiple models, programmable end point adjustment, exponential, etc. It's a bummer that I can't make it work with my Optic.
 
Make sure the abs setting is turned off on the radio, then recalibrate the esc and try it. I went through this with the fusion pro and gt3b and that’s what fixed it. Abs was on on ours the first time

Thanks! The ABS was set to "Normal." I'll try again! Fingers are crossed...
 
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