Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno NB48 2.2 Build Thread! 😈

[Littlemotor]

Put up the “body work” tools/supplies… Freakin’ Emory cloth..

Taped off then removed so I can have as much visual “help” as I can get.. Pro-Bond glue=15-20sec….. More like MILLIseconds.. If even that.. This is why I’ve been dragging my daamned feet the last two days. I knew I needed to knock this out before moving on..

A little goes a lonnnng way.. if this glue leeches out from under the plate-this was all for not.. I have legit spent 2.5hrs doing this nonsense.. I will light this whore on fire…

Pop the tray outta there, and run a thin bead around the borders of the openings, where they meet the block off/pimp-o-liscous trim plate..

Got it as flat as possible, so as to reduce any risk of bleeding through the cracks.. This is some uber thin tire glue, and it wicks like CRAZY.. Great for tires, possible nightmare for THIS..

Less is more..

Annnnnnnnd Finitó!!!

Screw her back in place..

HelldammitYES..

 

[Littlemotor]

I see. It's just a big ass empty box where the switch would be. Wow.

Yep. I run my Reedy electronic switch leads in there for my receiver LiPo connection.

 

[Littlemotor]

Came out perfect. Exactly what I was after. Rest In Power, Pops.. I couldn’t be happier with it, and nice to have a spot of good luck along for the ride in my garbage..

Now that my asss can finally breeeeathe again-let’s get back to some FUN STUFF..

Picco DIX .21 10-port, Ceramic bearing, DLC crank, factory modified, race engine. I am in LOVE with this thing, and super pumped I was fortunate enough to be able to grab it for this buggy. Nice and linear power, and revs to THE MOON.

Absolutely GORGEOUS cooling head graphics, and should play real nice with my junk..

 

[CertifiedMike]

"2.5hrs doing this nonsense.. I will light this whore on fire…"
Put the torch away!
It looks GREAT!!!

 

[Littlemotor]

Let’s crack this absolute ANIMAL open!!

Nicely machined as can be expected from Picco Micromotori.. LCG head as well, but not RIDICULOUSLY low..

Silicone O-ring seal to keep dirt/debris out from around the head button and sleeve area.

Shim stack measured .6mm FTW.. I run 30% VP Lutz Blend.

Snatching the fuel mixerator offa there..

On to the backplate to expose the internals.. Always make sure your piston is at least CLOSE to TDC, when removing the backplate. Some are non interference, while others are absolutely interference, and you’ll break the skirt off of your $100+ piston..

Non-interference. I knew ahead of time, but it’s always good practice to treat them ALL as interference.. Unless you’ve been into it before, and have verified what you’ve got.

Would you just LOOK at that freakin crank bore??? This is basically a GT crankshaft, but with off-road buggy timing.. Absolutely unheard of in 1/8 off-road.. Picco is just KILLING IT. And obviously a slugged, DLC coated crank, to boot..

Lightened piston.. No bypass holes though..
quality billet rod..

 

[Littlemotor]

CNC’d flat top..

Where’s the beef? Right here. That’s a nasty freakin billet rod…

Lightened piston.. But also milled skirt to clear the counterweight.

Drilled & filled..I’m interested to find out the timing numbers on this bad boy.. The previous P3TX 5port that I’ve got was pretty dammit close to maxed out from the factory, but with this guy being a GT crankshaft, and 10port sleeve-I have a sneaking suspicion that these numbers are going to vary from the 5port..

Shark fin, and weight removed opposite the DLC’d crank pin, but notice there are no scoops in the face of the counterweight.. I’m not sure they’d really do much with that gargantuan crank bore.. I bet this crank doesn’t was a daamned thing, compared to the 5port mill..

Swiss ceramic rear bearing.. Steel Japanese front single sealed unit.. The best of both..

 

[Littlemotor]

Some shots of the absolutely GORGEOUS, and highly involved port work/machining.. There’s a LOT going on in this dude with that port count.. Most ultra high end, competition on-road engines are 7, 8, or 9ports… This joker is freakin’ 10…

Short low speed needle. -which I prefer..

Idle gap..

Brass mid-range, 3rd needle..

 

[Littlemotor]

Just daammiit beautiful..

Phenomenal cylinder sleeve machine work..

 

[Littlemotor]

Cleaned everything up, and liberally applied Bones Motorsports ARO to errrrrrrythang, and reassembled..

Ready to move onto the next bag in the kit, as well as crack into some more aftermarket/upgraded parts.. I’m SUPER stoked on this motor though.. I’ve got a couple buddies across the pond-one of whom has been running his since late July-and they are absolute MISSLES. Looks like I got uber lucky this time, and did real good..

 

[CertifiedMike]

View attachment 216273View attachment 216274

Cleaned everything up, and liberally applied Bones Motorsports ARO to errrrrrrythang, and reassembled..

View attachment 216275View attachment 216276View attachment 216277


Ready to move onto the next bag in the kit, as well as crack into some more aftermarket/upgraded parts.. I’m SUPER stoked on this motor though.. I’ve got a couple buddies across the pond-one of whom has been running his since late July-and they are absolute MISSLES. Looks like I got uber lucky this time, and did real good..

That motor is NUTS!!! The sleeve looks like its got weird aliens face cut out in it!
You said you were installing pro video around that track of yours, right???
MAN do I want to see this thing GO!!!

 

[Littlemotor]

"2.5hrs doing this nonsense.. I will light this whore on fire…"
Put the torch away!
It looks GREAT!!!

If it DIDNT-I would have lol.. Thanks brothaman!

 

[Littlemotor]

That motor is NUTS!!! The sleeve looks like its got weird aliens face cut out in it!
You said you were installing pro video around that track of yours, right???
MAN do I want to see this thing GO!!!

Thanks man! I’m sure it’ll show up in a cameo, or three..

 

[Doom!]

I just realized I might be lazy. I would have just slapped a sticker over that power switch plate and called it done. Seriously looks good. I actually like working with plastic, preferably styrene.

 

[Chubaka]

Let’s crack this absolute ANIMAL open!!

View attachment 216233

Nicely machined as can be expected from Picco Micromotori.. LCG head as well, but not RIDICULOUSLY low..

View attachment 216234

Silicone O-ring seal to keep dirt/debris out from around the head button and sleeve area.

View attachment 216235View attachment 216236

Shim stack measured .6mm FTW.. I run 30% VP Lutz Blend.

View attachment 216237

Snatching the fuel mixerator offa there..

View attachment 216238

On to the backplate to expose the internals.. Always make sure your piston is at least CLOSE to TDC, when removing the backplate. Some are non interference, while others are absolutely interference, and you’ll break the skirt off of your $100+ piston..

View attachment 216239

Non-interference. I knew ahead of time, but it’s always good practice to treat them ALL as interference.. Unless you’ve been into it before, and have verified what you’ve got.

View attachment 216240

Would you just LOOK at that freakin crank bore??? This is basically a GT crankshaft, but with off-road buggy timing.. Absolutely unheard of in 1/8 off-road.. Picco is just KILLING IT. And obviously a slugged, DLC coated crank, to boot..

View attachment 216241

Lightened piston.. No bypass holes though..
quality billet rod..

View attachment 216242

Beautiful motor. Bring with rtr motors I've never seen something so thought out and machined. Great time to do a port and polish.

Great work on the ride as always. Can't wait to see and hear it running. Hopefully it doesn't see a flame. That would be whoreible.

 

[Littlemotor]

Bag “O-noooooooo”…

Added in the Tony’s routine, Avid bearings, Ultimate Racing countersunk M4’s, and an NT48 2.0 air filter assy for use with the non-Minecraft body..

Some more goodies..

Some of the smallest split locks I’ve ever used..

To the spare parts bags!

I’d like my clutch to work, so out with the pool of machine oil..

I use these for break-in’s.. Not wasting my O.S.’s for that nonsense..

 

[WickedFog]

I want your spare parts. Shove them in a 40 gallon tote and send my way

 

[Littlemotor]

Reds 4-way tossing a ChingChong “Italian” Ultra Hot Gold plug into a Picco engine.. Should be fiiiiiiiine..

Again-box stock.. I’ve got a a TON of shoes, and springs for various stuff-but I’ll give this setup a whirl.. Likely go to a couple carbons though if I had to guess..

Obviously stagger your springs. Gold opposite gold, and green the same way..

Simple ziptie trick helps tons one 4-shoe clutches..

Picco brass collet on the left, Tekno collet on the right. ALWAYS run the collet that comes with your flywheel. Tapers, and length vary wildly..

When sliding the collet on, pull the crank forward, while keeping the collet against the inner front bearing flange. If you do not-you’ll smoke your backplate, wear your rod, and crank pin prematurely, both bearings, and your clutch bell, and flywheel will walk all over the place..

I do NOT run loctite on the external crank threads. Tekno recommends you do. Run it however works for YOU. I’ve never lost one when I didn’t run it here.

 

[Littlemotor]

I want your spare parts. Shove them in a 40 gallon tote and send my way

With three pony kegs full of Burnt Peanuts! Shouldn’t be but a few bucks shippin’..

 

[WickedFog]

With three pony kegs full of Burnt Peanuts! Shouldn’t be but a few bucks shippin’..

Man, this thread was already a Tekno Building encyclopedia. Now.. engine tech. Sweet!

 

[Littlemotor]

It’s GONNA get smoked just from being in the dirt it’s whole life, but I’m not gonna be a caveman..

Make sure you know the correct way to use Chaneloks.. If you do not; observe… This would be it, lol.. Unbelievable how many times I see people that SHOULD know better, that clearly do not..

I mocked mine up to verify it wouldn’t be off by a mile first.. Verified it was in the ballpark, so I didn’t need to throw a washer behind the collet.. I ALWAYS toss (2) .2mm shims behind the bearing. As it loosens up, they can grenade the shield if ya don’t..

Avid Titanium bolt for the clutch/bell setup. It’s got a step machined into it to contact the shim stack, but an uber-wide flange to keep debris away from the bearing.. These are more maintenance than anything else in nitro off-road, hands down..