Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno NB48 2.2 Build Thread! 😈

[Littlemotor]

I really hate seeing chicks thinking that looks good.

I LOVE IT. Let me know right off the bat just how thirsty for validation from strangers, and the internet they are. Kept me from wasting anything what so ever on them.

 

[Littlemotor]

Back at it for a few! Got tied up with some prior obligations, and didn’t have a ton of time to dedicate to this, then had to work a deal or three, as well as box up some items to leave the Littlemotor Compound finally.. All is right with my little world again..

Even a few modificatin’ with this bag too.. The Mugen fuel line was late for the family photard, but he arrives in a minute..

Present!!!

Ran a lot of stuff throughout the years of doing this, and standard issue fuel line has always been my preference. The Associated buggy does well with springs, and I did build my nitro truck with the kit offering O-ring stacks, but will likely be changing over to fuel line as shown here. Tekno calls for 10mm, but I’m no pro driver, have a heavy finger, and prefer my brakes more linearrrrrr, so I made the chops at 12mm.

Quite a few alterations here, but doesn’t really look like much at a glance.

Junk pile/spares.. The kit T/B arms went straight to the trash. The STEEL servo horn is a nice piece, and Tekno is one of the first-if not THE first to ever include anything but plastic in their kit. I simply prefer the lightweight aluminum unit, clamping style, and matching my T/B arm..

Back to wrenching again..-a little prepwork, and we will be underway..

 

[Littlemotor]

A little chamfer action from the reamer will help get this party started..

Y’all know the drill by now-see the rings?

How ‘bouuuuuuuut now??!! -one facing, one down for reference, and old eyes..

Through the ring side. Always. Then position that side TOWARD what the assembly is secured to so the side that is virgin is outward, and therefor much less likely to spit the rod.

These are small, and I don’t want to tear them up-so they get a spot of green slime.

As I have my trugg for reference-I saved myself some guesswork by simply duplicating it. It’ll be adjusted anyway-but should be dead close off the bat.

The horn is countersunk from the bottom, and Tekno runs an M3 nyloc flange but on TOP. Not me-the horn is also THREADED, so I run a flathead from the top, with a countersunk washer, and Loctite at the horn. MUCH less likely to loosen up over time, and just about impossible to spit the rod from normal wear. About the only way it can happen is if it breaks in half. And it looks tiits..

See? Like so..

And this is why I always “mock up” as I build. I applied no threadlocker for this reason. Would’ve taken just as long to pull a bunch of measurements with the calipers..

 

[Littlemotor]

Yeah-no bueno. It would never contact the deck of my nice, NitroPro servo, but looks like I don’t give a daamn, and it’s obviously avoidable right now.

Back to the array of Tony’s Screw bags to swap out the m3x14, with an m3x12. All you need is for your thread engagement to be the depth of the WIDTH of the fastener. Even with the countersink in the bottom side of the horn-I’ve got that, and more.

There we go..

Now a spot of Loctite. The photard is deceiving-the washer is not flat against the pivot ball. There is more than sufficient thread engagement. This is exactly how my nitro truck is setup, as well as both mine, and Mrs. Littlemotor’s E-Truggs..

Annnnnnd, YAHTZEE.

Same deal here at the servosaver arm. Tekno runs theirs with a low profile m3 shoulder bolt, that they used to use on their OG steering knuckles. Again-not this guy. Just grabbed an m3 Nyloc from my Tony’s bag, and carefully guide it into the flats of the servosaver arm from underneath.

My guesstimating on the proper length fastener-as it’s a build modification, and my shim stack to bring it closer to the same plane as the servo horn. No sense going crazy here over that, but I do want it better than Tekno calls for.. Also-this has absolutely zero to do with my changing fastener setup what so ever; I’m actually making it much better.

No shimstack, and installed heigh/angle by the manual..

 

[Littlemotor]

I should’ve made mention of this whilst assembling the servo horn-but it WAS pictured/demonstrated. I always run a steel washer between a countersunk aluminum washer that is clamping down a pivot ball for obvious reasons. The edge of that pivot ball will absolutely crush, and wear into the washer-and over an afternoon; your linkage will be loose, and you will have damaged a bunch of expensive parts in the process. Use your noggin when making changes to your kit build. I also grabbed a couple of my “spare” m3 steel flat washers in my guesstimating of how much I wanna remedy the angle of the steering link. My Tony’s kit came with chrome units, but I don’t wanna see them so easily, and distract from the completed whip.

Dry run, and I’m happy with it. Lemme view from above, and make the necessary changes to the setup to get my arm, and horn parallel-then I’ll lock her down, and recheck..

I likey. If you do not do this on the E-uggies, the angle is pretty fugly.. It’s a much shorter steering link, as the servo sits sideways. Less than ideal-so I remedy it without going completely bonkers.

Annnnnnmd donezo for now..

This is what I mean by “parallel”.. A piktar is worth a thousand words-as they say..

 

[Littlemotor]

Alriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight-intermission over..
On to throttle/brake linkage. This shiit is uber important, and a TON of folks struggle with it. Seen it countless times, and it’s often times the difference between a good day at the track, or your preferred bashin’ grounds, and an absolutely TERRIBLE one. -let alone having the vehicle actually be fast, or stop well.. If this isn’t EXACTLY right, your performance will undoubtedly suffer; and your ultra expensive nitro engine is attached to this entire shootin’ match.. You want this linkage to be as free moving as possible, and no binds or wonky angles of any kind. It’s ALL adjustable, so allow yourself room fro said adjustment(s)-plan AHEAD.

Now-when I come across something I don’t like, I’ll take the time to see exactly what’s required, and if I’ve bumped my head, or if I can make a change for the better.. This is one of those cases. Aesthetically-it sucks IMO.. “Straight” knurling sucks in almost every scenario I’ve seen it, and it feels terrible if it’s something you’ve got to handle routinely as well. I’m much more a fan of “Diamond” knurling, myself. These thumb wheels are for your brake bias, and overall feel. These will need attention after brake fade, initial setup, or with varying track/surface conditions.. They get used a LOT, so if they feel like shiit, you’re gonna know it.. I have the “kit” parts on my nitro truck as well, and HATE IT. With the grocery list of changes I’d already planned to make to this particular whip, this one absolutely slipped my mind.. The barrel adjusters are super ginormous also, and just feel wonky. They also LOOK like an afterthought IMO..

So I decided to call an audible… Enter JQ’s Mayako, as well as super nice Serpent to the party..

Mayako on the left, and includes the stop collars in black as well. Simple, yet effective. Looks great as well. Much smaller O.D., and Diamond knurled.

Next up is the super swanky Serpent stuff. Here in the center of the (3) options, we have their black parts. Barrel adjusters only from Serpent..

Finally-we have the more natural finish; also from Serpent. Any of these selections would fit the bill, but there’s a method to the madness-and as mentioned previously; the nitro truck is long overdue for attention in this department as well..

So this is what I came up with when doing my homework, and before squeezing the trigger on all of these options. The Nice swanky Serpent barrel adjusters in black, with the stop collars from Mayako. Function over form for sure in this department, while still looking killer. I’m very specific in visual cue’s, and while there may be small(ish) changes throughout, I don’t want anything to draw my eye away from the bigger picture. I like it to be noticed AS you look at it, use it, or work on it-NOT be overwhelming, and have one part drown out everything else.. The remainder of these will handle the nitro truck, and something else..

Let’s get this party started on the throttle side of things first..

Small stuff here, and needs to take adjustment when needed so I grease my threads AFTER making them. There are quite a few initial, or “dry” runs with this linkage stuff, as well as mock-up. You’ll see what I’m talking about as things come together-again; PLAN AHEAD.

 

[Littlemotor]

Make sure you MEASURE, and verify how deep you run the linkage rod. Tekno’s plastic/composites are second to none I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with, but this little ball cup will NOT stop a hardened steel linkage rod on the business end of a Milwaukee M12 drill.. SLOW, and steady. If you heat this part up, you’ll melt your newly “tapped” threads, and they’ll lay over, and/or be extremely brittle. Remember-you’re gonna be assembling, disassembling, and reassembling a few times here, as well as be making future adjustments. So take it easy, and don’t rush this process, you want it done RIGHT, not done fast.

Obviously..

This is not even close to where we’ll end up, it’s just for photo purposes. The stop collar will be very close to the ball cup on the linkage rod during mock-up, and final install.

Be mindful, and do not over tighten any of this stuff.

“Now that’s thinking with your dipstick, Jimmy!!”.. use anything you can to make your life easier, and keep your parts STRAIGHT..

Running fresh threads dry FIRST..

Now apply a spot of grease, and reinstall.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Alriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight-intermission over..
On to throttle/brake linkage. This shiit is uber important, and a TON of folks struggle with it. Seen it countless times, and it’s often times the difference between a good day at the track, or your preferred bashin’ grounds, and an absolutely TERRIBLE one. -let alone having the vehicle actually be fast, or stop well.. If this isn’t EXACTLY right, your performance will undoubtedly suffer; and your ultra expensive nitro engine is attached to this entire shootin’ match.. You want this linkage to be as free moving as possible, and no binds or wonky angles of any kind. It’s ALL adjustable, so allow yourself room fro said adjustment(s)-plan AHEAD.

View attachment 218274

Now-when I come across something I don’t like, I’ll take the time to see exactly what’s required, and if I’ve bumped my head, or if I can make a change for the better.. This is one of those cases. Aesthetically-it sucks IMO.. “Straight” knurling sucks in almost every scenario I’ve seen it, and it feels terrible if it’s something you’ve got to handle routinely as well. I’m much more a fan of “Diamond” knurling, myself. These thumb wheels are for your brake bias, and overall feel. These will need attention after brake fade, initial setup, or with varying track/surface conditions.. They get used a LOT, so if they feel like shiit, you’re gonna know it.. I have the “kit” parts on my nitro truck as well, and HATE IT. With the grocery list of changes I’d already planned to make to this particular whip, this one absolutely slipped my mind.. The barrel adjusters are super ginormous also, and just feel wonky. They also LOOK like an afterthought IMO..

View attachment 218275

So I decided to call an audible… Enter JQ’s Mayako, as well as super nice Serpent to the party..

View attachment 218276

Mayako on the left, and includes the stop collars in black as well. Simple, yet effective. Looks great as well. Much smaller O.D., and Diamond knurled.

View attachment 218277

Next up is the super swanky Serpent stuff. Here in the center of the (3) options, we have their black parts. Barrel adjusters only from Serpent..

View attachment 218278

Finally-we have the more natural finish; also from Serpent. Any of these selections would fit the bill, but there’s a method to the madness-and as mentioned previously; the nitro truck is long overdue for attention in this department as well..

View attachment 218279

So this is what I came up with when doing my homework, and before squeezing the trigger on all of these options. The Nice swanky Serpent barrel adjusters in black, with the stop collars from Mayako. Function over form for sure in this department, while still looking killer. I’m very specific in visual cue’s, and while there may be small(ish) changes throughout, I don’t want anything to draw my eye away from the bigger picture. I like it to be noticed AS you look at it, use it, or work on it-NOT be overwhelming, and have one part drown out everything else.. The remainder of these will handle the nitro truck, and something else..

View attachment 218280

Let’s get this party started on the throttle side of things first..

View attachment 218281

Small stuff here, and needs to take adjustment when needed so I grease my threads AFTER making them. There are quite a few initial, or “dry” runs with this linkage stuff, as well as mock-up. You’ll see what I’m talking about as things come together-again; PLAN AHEAD.

View attachment 218282View attachment 218283

Your OCD is making my OCD twitch again!

 

[Tr1f3ctaEch0]

Make sure you MEASURE, and verify how deep you run the linkage rod. Tekno’s plastic/composites are second to none I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with, but this little ball cup will NOT stop a hardened steel linkage rod on the business end of a Milwaukee M12 drill.. SLOW, and steady. If you heat this part up, you’ll melt your newly “tapped” threads, and they’ll lay over, and/or be extremely brittle. Remember-you’re gonna be assembling, disassembling, and reassembling a few times here, as well as be making future adjustments. So take it easy, and don’t rush this process, you want it done RIGHT, not done fast.

View attachment 218285

Obviously..

View attachment 218286

This is not even close to where we’ll end up, it’s just for photo purposes. The stop collar will be very close to the ball cup on the linkage rod during mock-up, and final install.

View attachment 218287View attachment 218288

Be mindful, and do not over tighten any of this stuff.

View attachment 218289View attachment 218290

“Now that’s thinking with your dipstick, Jimmy!!”.. use anything you can to make your life easier, and keep your parts STRAIGHT..

View attachment 218291View attachment 218292

Running fresh threads dry FIRST..

View attachment 218293

Now apply a spot of grease, and reinstall.

View attachment 218294

Where do you get the green slime tubes?

 

[DavidB1126]

Where do you get the green slime tubes?

https://60years.associatedelectrics.com/ft-green-slime-shock-lube/

 

[Littlemotor]

I take a LOT of measurements, and eyeball as well so as to get as close to “in the ballpark” as possible with this kind of stuff. They need to be even, while still allowing yourself room for adjustment from your final installed assembly. You need to use your head here. I’ll be giving excessive rod length here “the chop”, so measure twice; cut once. You can always take more off-but it’s pretty dammit difficult to put material back, and my linkage rod stretcher is out for repairs atm..

This is my first mock-up. Note that there are no wonky angles to speak of throughout the entire range of operation. Snug your set screws down, and MOVE your throttle/brake servo by hand through its entire projected throw. You’ll want to go from a bit BEYOND WOT (wide open throttle) at the carb slide side, as well as a little beyond where you THINK you can pull on the brake side (that servo is a LOT stronger than you diick beaters lol, trust me.), and look at your work. No binds are acceptable here. Take your time, and find that sweet spot-ALL of this is adjustable, and YOU are setting it up, so it is absolutely achievable.

Obviously there is excess material.

I’m in a real good spot here, and there’s all kinds of room for adjustments during setup, and in the future. Remember-this is MOCK-UP. There’s a reason that term is around.

 

[Tr1f3ctaEch0]

https://60years.associatedelectrics.com/ft-green-slime-shock-lube/

Yes but where do you get the tube style?

 

[DavidB1126]

Yes but where do you get the tube style?
View attachment 218317

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3949059683...I8P7gxOom7Ff8St-qrXHSuauv8Ics41hoCPZIQAvD_BwE

 

[WickedFog]

Here's a big ol' tube of it for $20
https://a.co/d/hYAcTcU

And these are handy
https://a.co/d/9oPT8li

 

[Littlemotor]

Once everything looks, and FEELS good, it’s time to measure up (TWICE), and verify your numbers for a much needed haircut to finish up this procedure. Take your time. The hard work is in the rear view.

Throttle side first, and then jot down your value.

Then your brake side.. Deoending on where your adjusters are (before, or after the servo arm), you may only need to cut one. Or maybe both. Perhaps neither? Verify for yourSELF.

Now that your numbers are recorded, tear it back down, and prepare for destruction!!’

Marking this stuff with a blade, or paint isn’t accurate at all, so while it sounds easier in your head-I choose to measure, as I’m an adult.

Some may cringe here, but I’ve done this enough times to get in without forcing it, and get out without hanging around all day. Either end of that spectrum could indeed cause damage to the plastic/composite pivot, running your threads. I’ve yet to ever have a problem. These rods are hardened, and tend to not leave a clean edge when cut with quality dykes, lineman’s pliers, etc., as they break/shatter, and aren’t really “cut” by said tools at all… Always best to use a dremel, and death wheel. Remember to wear your safety squints (all jokes aside-don’t be a dumbasss), and never put your face, or eyeball in line with that wheel..

I dress the ends to clean up my butchery, and reassemble.

Yahtzee.

 

[Littlemotor]

I can’t WAIT to remedy the “kit” setup on the nitro truck.. This is the way…

Finally-thought I was gonna have to get married to that last bag…

Some of this isn’t even making it to the “spares” pile, and goes immediately to the trash. There are even further modifications I’m making to this stuff as well..

Spare parts pile, hardware baggie, and TRASH CAN. Respectively.. With a cherry on top.

I am not a fan of the fuel line run on the Tekno tanks with their clips..Just looks like garbage to me, and often times-depending on pipe selection, you will have a bunch of fuel tubing just flopping around inside your vehicle. Nope. Not happnin’.. I made this very same change on my nitro truck, and am the only person I’ve ever seen change this stuff up.

Spare fuel tanks are ALWAYS good to have on hand with nitro stuff, and this one fits my other nitro buggy, so not at all a waste of monies… I would’ve just bought clips if I didn’t have an Associated to use the tank with, and I just so happen to really dig their clips specifically for this mod..

I clean this flash up with the X-acto..

 

[Doom!]

I'd hire you for my pit crew any day! Fantastic job as expected.

 

[Littlemotor]

“These little guys? Oh I wouldn’t worry about these little guys…”..

Be prepared to “hold your mouth right”.. just take your time. It’s likely easier to stack BB’s at a 45deg angle, but it’s not impossible.. you want the fat side on the bottom of the tank flange/seam. I used to use a 2.5mm driver to help get them started, but I’ve done so many now that I’m able to just get a “corner” (of a circle??? What’s this guy talkin’ about?? ) started in the hole, and manipulate the rest in with my fingers..

Like so..

The rear tank stand affixes to the front leg of the motor mount. Obviously swapped out the SHCS and steel M3 flat washer in favor of a proper Tony’s 12.9 flathead, and Tekno natural finish countersunk washer that I had on hand specifically for this operation. I didn’t want blue, or black down there in that spot..

The front tank post is keyed to the CNC pocket milling of the 7075 chassis..

Now the table is set..

A couple more SHCS’s pitched, and more Tony’s flatheads.. I’m using the Team Brood gloss black, and “ringed” countersunk washers here.. Less is more.

Plays nicely with the natural finish washer down there, the billet black motor mount, and the chamfered billet center diff top plate imo..

 

[Littlemotor]

“As above, so below…”

Onto fuel line routing.. Not using the itty bitty Associated M2.5 button heads, as I want the clips to have half a chance at staying clocked correctly with the tension of fuel tubing against them.. First I need to know how long my screws will have to be. Don’t flip out-I am gonna use button heads here.. I knowwwww… The clips are the perfect size for an M3 button head, as a countersunk washers would overhang, and again-less is moarrrr..

Lessee-carry the one, round up for good measure (see what I did there @Chubaka ?), and bueno-M3x8..

I used all of my Tony’s from his kit, and @WickedFog is heckling the pisss outta me as we speak, so into the spares bag.. I’m not gonna park my daily on top of these, so the kit screws will be more than fine for this..

(2) black M3 Nyloc flangless, and a pair of M3x8 buttonheads. The clips are designed for M2.5’s, so I’ll just open ‘em up a couple to 2.91mm..

EXACTLY what I was looking for.. Height, distance away from the front of the tank, and the M3 buttonhead fits the clip flawlessly..

 

[CertifiedMike]

“These little guys? Oh I wouldn’t worry about these little guys…”..

Be prepared to “hold your mouth right”.. just take your time. It’s likely easier to stack BB’s at a 45deg angle, but it’s not impossible.. you want the fat side on the bottom of the tank flange/seam. I used to use a 2.5mm driver to help get them started, but I’ve done so many now that I’m able to just get a “corner” (of a circle??? What’s this guy talkin’ about?? ) started in the hole, and manipulate the rest in with my fingers..

View attachment 218340

Like so..

View attachment 218341View attachment 218342

The rear tank stand affixes to the front leg of the motor mount. Obviously swapped out the SHCS and steel M3 flat washer in favor of a proper Tony’s 12.9 flathead, and Tekno natural finish countersunk washer that I had on hand specifically for this operation. I didn’t want blue, or black down there in that spot..

View attachment 218343View attachment 218344

The front tank post is keyed to the CNC pocket milling of the 7075 chassis..

View attachment 218345

Now the table is set..

View attachment 218346

A couple more SHCS’s pitched, and more Tony’s flatheads.. I’m using the Team Brood gloss black, and “ringed” countersunk washers here.. Less is more.

View attachment 218347View attachment 218348

Plays nicely with the natural finish washer down there, the billet black motor mount, and the chamfered billet center diff top plate imo..

View attachment 218349

That little rubber anti vibe plug looks like the plug for the filler on my floor jack! OMFG!!! Fought with that little fng thing with 8 different needle nose pliers, regular pliers, hammer and spike... you name it...
Flat head screw driver in one corner FTW.