Build Thread Littlemotor’s Tekno NB48 2.2 Build Thread! 😈

[Littlemotor]

Pop another 2.91mm hole in for the back, after mocking it up proper, and marking with an Ultra Fine tip Sharpie..

PERFECT.

Now THIS location will allow me to run whatever pipe, and pressure nipple arrangement available today, and have BOTH of my fuel lines properly secured to the tank. Also-worth mentioning-that this does not look like homemade shoes (sorry Tekno, I’m just anal AF. )

I’ve been using this specific fuel tubing for 20yrs, and never had any failure. I HAVE with every other “kit” tubing I have used. And it looks good for my garbage to boot..

If you’ve ever done commercial electrical, then you know… Thomas & Betts FTMFW. These are the UV cable ties, as noted by the black..

Just ONE benefit of the only true Ty-Rap on the planet.. Stainless steel tang.. I still cringe when I see people use any ol’ ziptie to hold their air filter on there $600+ nitro engine.. I’m not gonna use any ol’ ziptie here either..

Even in the micro machine line of cable ties..

This is NOT a Ty-Rap… Have some fail on your air filter, or do commercial electrical/Industrial Maintenance for a living, and you’ll be using these too. They’re not cheap though..

Now I had some phone issues late last night during my build, and apparently managed to skip shooting photards of routing my fuel tubing.. No matter-you’ll see the result here in the next few photards..

I’ve been building these tank pulls for YEARS, and much prefer them to any other style, weather it be a little short dude, a loop, or the newer hard plastic ring-pulls that this kit same with. Just my own personal preference, and I’ll likely never change that..

 

[CertifiedMike]

3m ties use the metal tabs too. Gotta check tho b/c I think they make w/o metal tabs also.

 

[Lukedavis]

Having the servo gear farther away from the bellcrank attachment point means your connecting rod will have less deviation from being parallel to the chassis centerline.

The way my mind always analyses things like this is take it to the extreme. Lets say your servo is a mile away from your bellcrank. The servo horn rotating is not going to show much of an angle change on that connecting rod at all.

Now move the servo right next to the bell crank. As the rod connection at the servo horn travels along its arc, that connecting rod is going to change angles drastically.

The ideal setup for a steering servo would be a linear actuator, eliminating the arc the horn travels completely. Because as the horn leaves center, the distance it pulls that rod exponentially decreases until it reaches 90° rotation, where there is zero pull on the rod. Any angle your rod deviates from parallel amplifies that decreasing value.

I don't understand this at all. So, on my Revo 3.3, I'm running a single servo, a Spektrum S6245 low profile servo, and it has the servo splines closer to the front bulkhead/steering bellcrank, and it has a short adjustable link, but I found another one that has a long adjustable link that is made for a Revo. What is the difference between the two? What happens if I use the long one instead of the short one? I really want to learn more.

 

[Littlemotor]

I was definitely off my rhythm after sorting the phone out.. Rest assured-there is a length of Mugen Grey “silicone fuel pipe” simply slid over the Ty-Rap, and then a corresponding length cut of decent heat shrink tubing that I use for electrical work. I’d be more than happy to provide the Ty-Rap part number (as they’re not super easy to find if you’re not familiar with Thomas & Betts), but I’d have to locate my PN for those dudes myself. I need to order up another bag as well.

After some heat gun action, I give it a little help to retain the desired shape… Let it cool a bit before moving forward if you ever choose to go this route..

This is indeed a significantly larger Ty-Rap head.. Try this with a plastic tang, and pull on it like your Johnson everytime you run the vehicle..

Yessir!! Now I know we are in the short rows!!!

Holy dammiiiiiiiiiit-last kit bag… FWIW-there is an “option parts” bag that comes with the kit-but do ya really think there’s much in there for this guy after reading this far?

No need for contents pics, as I literally grabbed out (2) natural finish M3 countersunk washers for my stash, and (2) black, flangeless M3 Nyloc’s.. That’s it. Everything else is spare parts, and spare hardware.

BOOM.

I’ll grab (2) M3x14 flatheads from my Tony’s kit for the wing..

Alllllllllllmost there…

 

[Littlemotor]

Pretty slick.. it DOES get my OCD a bit that the laser etching isn’t clocked the same on each wheel nut face.. Still very nice pieces imo..

I always measure 45 times when doing the wing.. You threw away $20+ if ya butcher it.. And I have..

I prefer mine as far back as I can go without exposing the wing mount flange. This has ALWAYS suited my driving style. I pop fairly larger holes in the wing to calm it down at high speeds, and in air attitude… Or should I say altitude attitude?

I’ll even it up, and just split the grid. It’s a few mm further up, but safer to not expose the flange from under the wing as well.

Plastic moves… Always pull as many measurements as possible before marking, and popping holes..

And this is why… That’s more like it.

 

[Littlemotor]

A high quality reamer is your friend for this.. I’ve used a bunch, and while I just can’t bring muhseff to splurge for a Hudy-this Team Associated unit has done me alright so far..

Slide your nyloc in there (and be sure it’s oriented the correct direction obviously)..

Align your wing buttons, or button, snug the screws up, verify everything is happy, and lock her down..

 

[Littlemotor]

I’m diggin’ it!!!!

Turned out more sinister than I had envisioned in my head prior to starting the build, but also has kind of an Xray(ish) vibe to it… Kinda like a blacked out Cadillac… Mmmm, BlackWing…

I’ve got a few little things I’m gonna handle on it, but for all intents and purposes-it’s complete. I will be pulling the motor out, disassembling the entire thing down to an empty case, bearings included in that deal, and doing a bit of surgery, and reassembling it one last time.. I’m telliin’ ya-if I see something I’m not happy with; I freakin form a plan of action, and take care of it..

Also I’ve got the body(s) to scheme up, & shoot, and a set of custom decals to get drawn up, and ordered from my boy Mike Garrison over @ BOOM! Graphics. I’m stoked AF with how it’s progressed thus far though for sure..

I seriously appreciate all of you guys who’ve followed along, and posted up. It means a lot, and hopefully was a decent little read/journey. Just wait for what’s up next.. Gonna be ROWDY…

 

[Littlemotor]

I'd hire you for my pit crew any day! Fantastic job as expected.

Team Dust Devil FTMFW!!! Thank you brothaman!! just tryin’ to keep up with you my dude!

 

[Doom!]

Team Dust Devil FTMFW!!! Thank you brothaman!! just tryin’ to keep up with you my dude!

You leave me in the dust, don't be gettin' all Humble and stuff!

 

[Littlemotor]

You leave me in the dust, don't be gettin' all Humble and stuff!

Nosir!! I’ve seen your stuff!

 

[CertifiedMike]

YOU SIR, have outdone yourself!!!
OCD produces some AMAZING results!!!
So now we need vids of this running your track and all wiil be right in RCTALK LAND.

Thanks for all the pointers, tips, reminders... mostly a reminder of all the things I will NEVER remember as I build my stuff.

 

[Doom!]

I know right? I should print all of his builds and keep them in a binder with all of the pro-tips highlighted.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I know right? I should print all of his builds and keep them in a binder with all of the pro-tips highlighted.

I'm trying it more like a chant sort of thing... rings in, rings in...

 

[WickedFog]

I don't understand this at all. So, on my Revo 3.3, I'm running a single servo, a Spektrum S6245 low profile servo, and it has the servo splines closer to the front bulkhead/steering bellcrank, and it has a short adjustable link, but I found another one that has a long adjustable link that is made for a Revo. What is the difference between the two? What happens if I use the long one instead of the short one? I really want to learn more.

Pics would help.

 

[Littlemotor]

Pics would help.

And in its own thread, or PM.

 

[WickedFog]

Didn't even see which thread this was. Der.

 

[Littlemotor]

Didn't even see which thread this was. Der.

Oh I’m not gripin’-talk it up! Any traffic is good traffic up in here!

I just mean it’d see a lot more help/participation in its own thread, and be a benefit to others in the future with the same questions if it’s findable on the forum.

 

[Lukedavis]

Oh I’m not gripin’-talk it up! Any traffic is good traffic up in here!

I just mean it’d see a lot more help/participation in its own thread, and be a benefit to others in the future with the same questions if it’s findable on the forum.

Yes I get that. Sorry for hijacking your thread lol

 

[Littlemotor]

Yes I get that. Sorry for hijacking your thread lol

You’re good man-I’m not stressin’ one bit over here..

 

[CertifiedMike]

Oh I’m not gripin’-talk it up! Any traffic is good traffic up in here!

I just mean it’d see a lot more help/participation in its own thread, and be a benefit to others in the future with the same questions if it’s findable on the forum.

So are you gonna fix my Revo or not???

My Revo is in kit form right now... I need to find the follow up thread!