Kyosho FW06 Audi R8 2019

[StephMir]

Yeah, unfortunately with all Nitro RCs, you have to do some cutting of the body. Either pull start, fuel tank access, engine heatsink or in my case, all of the above. As of today, 04/17/2020, I still haven't run my Supra body. I will run it to test the heat temperatures. I still may need some more holes in the body for air circulation, but I'll check the temps when its hotter outside.

I ran the Supra body. It has less holes than my original Audi shell. The Supra body handles extremely well. I took it out for a few tanks of fuel on the longer straight-away, but I didn't record any video. I plan on taking out again and running a few more tanks of fuel through it.

 

[StephMir]

I ran the Supra body. It has less holes than my original Audi shell. The Supra body handles extremely well. I took it out for a few tanks of fuel on the longer straight-away, but I didn't record any video. I plan on taking out again and running a few more tanks of fuel through it.

This is just a small video I took with my cell. not very good but you can see the way the body looks in the sun. I'm happy the way it came out.

 

[StephMir]

After cutting holes in body and put in slicks, I installed hot pink air filter and then re-tuned. its about 99% tuning, but it's HOT here in Texas! With this heat the engine will ALWAYS need to be tuned.

Solaris Racing S-T36JGM4W - Soft racing slicks. Excellent for On-Road.

 

[Tivum]

Just bought this car. Still breaking it in and tuning it. I still want to tune it a bit more before I take it out onto a tar track. I replaced the rubber tires and went with slicks and it handles very well on the street. It does lower it more than stock tires by about a 1mm. It sits 5mm stock. Any tips and recommendations for this car? I'm running 20% Nitro fuel with stock glow plug. Only use it for street and some track runs. Had to cut holes in the body for air circulation.

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Where did you get that thermometer?

 

[StephMir]

Kyosho FW06. Evening run. Moved the GoPro camera mount to the center. Steering is much more stable. Lowered the audio on the video. Also, lowered the video quality when uploaded. I will encode better quality in the future, since YouTube is allowing higher quality videos.

Anyone have any comments on how the idling sounds? Does it sound a bit high? I think I wanna lower the idling a bit more. I know the High End is set pretty good but the low end needs a couple of more adjustments.

 

[StephMir]

Where did you get that thermometer?

I found the Thermometer at my local hobby shop but, you can buy it online at most hobby shops.

 

[Tivum]

I found the Thermometer at my local hobby shop but, you can buy it online at most hobby shops.

The only ones I can find are those huge ass handheld ones, they work okay but can't really get into the tiny spaces, my Tmaxx is cramped.

 

[StephMir]

Duratrax Flashpoint do a search on Google.

 

[StephMir]

A tip for SLICKS. You can spray them down with WD40 and let them sit for a couple of hours. Search Youtube WD40 on RC Slicks. The tires will tend to get somewhat softer. I've tried that trick on my stock Kyosho tires. They handled and gripped ok, but not like the Foamies.

 

[Tivum]

A tip for SLICKS. You can spray them down with WD40 and let them sit for a couple of hours. Search Youtube WD40 on RC Slicks. The tires will tend to get somewhat softer. I've tried that trick on my stock Kyosho tires. They handled and gripped ok, but not like the Foamies.

I've also seen competitios where people put them at the lowest setting in their oven before heading out, sometimes at like 150-200. Makes them sticky as hell.

 

[Rcuser]

I got a fw06 too. Had some slicks laying around but they were 62mm in diameter not the stock 66mm. I was able to raise the suspension height a bit so the chassis wasn't too low to the ground with the smaller wheels. To raise or lower the car, I adjusted the droop screws in the front and rear. The front droop screws are further inwards towards the center of the car more; took me some time to realize the front had droop screws too. Then can adjust the shock collar a bit too.

 

[Rcuser]

Out of the box I:
-added a inline fuel filter
-put a rubber band around the HSN and carb slider ball link as a mechanical fail safe in case link pops off
-set the tx/rx failsafe via the manual as it wasn’t set from the factory
-front pillow balls had to be tightened slightly by removing the wheels and using the largest allen key supplied

 

[Rcuser]

Broke her in at stock settings for 4 tanks on a stand, letting it cool completely and piston at BDC after each tank. Then gentle 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full throttle for next 4 tanks. Just watched YouTube videos on how to break in and how to tune. Engine starts so easily within a pull or 2 after priming. For bashing it’s nice having a pull start and no starter box although I’m aware of the cons of a pull start. This thing screams and the 2 speed shifting sound is why I bought this over a 1/8 nitro buggy which only has 1 speed. That and the looks. Also 1/10 is lighter and a bit easier to carry/handle.

i tried to delay the shift point by tightening the allen nut in the spur gear area per manual, but it was too hard to get one of the allen keys to fit. Also really hard to see into the adjustment hole. Stock shift point is not bad though. And if I ease into throttle than that in itself delays the shift point.

Always checked for loose screws after every outing or two. And none have backed out yet.

 

[StephMir]

I got a fw06 too. Had some slicks laying around but they were 62mm in diameter not the stock 66mm. I was able to raise the suspension height a bit so the chassis wasn't too low to the ground with the smaller wheels. To raise or lower the car, I adjusted the droop screws in the front and rear. The front droop screws are further inwards towards the center of the car more; took me some time to realize the front had droop screws too. Then can adjust the shock collar a bit too.

You should post some pics of those screws. I was thinking of adjusting the height on mine.