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@johnnydmd Is there a way to print the part in two pieces and dovetail them together so you can print the screw holes facing the way you want? I am just wondering, don't know if glueing a dovetail type of join would be strong enough. I haven't even set my printer up yet but trying to learn from you guys who have experience.
If you can find this plastic weld, which is not sold in the US now, it is phenominal for gluing PLA.My experience with gluing parts together, is that the glue doesn't hold, even using a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld. I think the key to keep parts like this from delaminating, is to 1) Print them solid, and 2) Make sure there is a good amount of thickness with no weak spots. The one printed in PLA there on the right, I added some pretty beefy parts to increase that, and it would probably hold up ok, but I do think the one printed in resin, on the left, would be vastly stronger, there's no chance of delamination, only cracking if the resin was brittle. The plant-based resin is so much more pliable than the standard stuff, I really like it.
Of course resin printing is a whole other form of art(frustration) in and of itself, but the quality and detail is vastly superior.
Might I suggest you outsource the 3D printed component to a service bureau with and use GF reinforced ABS ? Home gamer materials won't really cut it, IMO.
I dunno. If you design the parts properly, and your printer is setup right, you can print some really durable stuff.
Yeah, since the arms are under the body, only a big crash is going to break them. And that would break oem parts just as easily. And it's a matter of pushing a few buttons to make a replacement if that is the case. Much cheaper than buying from an outside supplier.If my testing shows that the two 3D printed items (bulkheads) won't hold up, sure. However, I seriously doubt either of the bulkheads will fail, and I don't think ABS is nearly as strong as the resin that I'm using. This stuff is incredibly strong, and has a flexibility to it that standard resins don't have. I ran the car last night hard, and inspection saw nothing was cracked, still rock solid.
The other 3D printed items (throttle servo mount and flywheel guard stub, have zero chance of breaking, they are very low stress items.
Plus, it's a drag car, not a basher. Those parts you printed are more than strong enough for that.
I understand the appeal of design and print at home. I have a commercial grade machine I run at work. If OP wants to sell a finished good on eBay as a kit, with female threaded holes, it needs to hold up. The situation changes when you talk about marketing it. Service bureau shops open up a whole world of new possibilities for proper engineering plastics.
Good reasoning on parts survivablilty, johnny. Beyond driveline components, everything else is low stress. . . until a crash. Then CF is the first to suffer. Splintering in the 60mph range. Shattering at 80mph plus. Really can't build in crash resistance without really adding a lot of detrimental weight.
These next-gen no-prep cars are a bit bigger and heavier than the 1/10 full-prep cars running fifteen years ago. Newer no-prep are inherently more survivable. Project is looking good, johnny. Once you get a few chassis out there on the track you can refine the design and improve the breed. Hang in there. 'AC'
My comment was not an assault on 3D printing. I just suggested another material to make it preform more like the traxxas molded parts, with machine screws that cut their own threads. OP mentioned he had a female thread strength problem in his original FDM parts and was exploring other manufacturing methods - UV cured resins and manual tapping. I simply suggested another solution. Forget I said anything, I was trying to help, not distract from the work he as shown this thread.