How to remove tires from wheels?

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DavidB1126

Team Bomb Pop
Supporter
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
5,540
Reaction score
8,982
Location
Baltimore
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Crawling
  4. Scale Builder
Trying to remove the tires from the wheels which were pre glued from the factory. I stripped the wheel hex so I will be trying to put the tire on a different wheel and hopefully it all works out. Or I might just get s completely different set of tires.
 
Use Acetone fumes in sealed container for about 24~48 hours to soften CA glue.


One method: How to Fix a Stripped-Out Wheel Hex
1679187144213.png
 
Last edited:
If it was me, I'd just buy new wheels, and reuse the good tires after "fuming" them off the buggered up wheels, but depending on what wheel and the hex design... maybe it's possible to salvage the wheel.
From another forum:
It is easy. You need just 6 screws as below.
1679187715353.png

1679187733568.png

The screw causes the pressed hex face to swell.
1679187775657.png

(before fixing)
Notorious’s hex has space for screw.
1679187833978.png

(after fixing)
1679187899120.png


If there is no space to put in set screw, you might need drilling.
1679187616722.png

After fixing of screw, hex got stronger than before. Because of metal screw.
 
I have found that acetone will damage the wheel insert by causing it to shrink and crack after it dries :(

To re-use both the tire and insert I've had the best luck with the oven method.

Pre-heat oven to 350°F then turn off oven, Insert wheel on cookie sheet and wait for oven to cool... pull out wheel and test to see if bead has broken free. If not, pull out the wheel and repeat as many times as necessary until the bead has unglued everywhere... it can sometimes take 3-4 times and is much faster and cleaner than acetone plus you will not damage the insert either :)
 
Interesting acetone aftermath on the inserts bill_delong. Soaking, or "fuming" the tires/wheels? I've not run into cracking on closed cell foams after doing the fumes method. Pro-Line blue inserts may have dried out a bit, but, as far as I know of, AKA pink inserts were okay. I'll have to keep a close eye on things.

I may revisit "the oven" method at some point in time as my first couple attempts were a hot mess, and didn't wait for things to cool down 🥵
 
Patience is key with the oven method, not worth burning fingers.

I have done the vapor method as well with acetone and it left a stringy mess with gummed up glue all over the place, never doing that again :( However the inserts were not damaged, ha!

Only time I use acetone is when I want to re-use the wheels and will cut worn treads and leave just the beads soaked over night and the beads slide off the next day. Acetone will also shrink the rubber and change the compound causing it to harden. Fortunately acetone doesn't harm the plastic wheels but in the OP's case here, that's the only part he wants to discard, doh!
 
I did the boiling method 10 years ago with success.
 
I'm a fan of the near efforless acetone fume method. Worked great on removing the stock wheels/tires of my TRX4. Didn't appear to affect the rubber compound of the crawler tires at all. However, my first try with stock SCX24 wheels ended up with the wheels completely liquifying. Be careful of what the wheels are made of.
0914211526.jpg
 
Maybe the wheel nuts I am using are the issue I stripped the wheels? I am using cheap amazon aluminum wheel nuts. They do keep backing out so I use alot of loctite on the stub axle. Traxxas offers serrated and fanged wheel nuts. The amazon ones I have are only serrated.
 
I went to the hardware store and bought a one gallon paint can. And a thing of acetone. I cut the tires off the rim leaving the glued on beads. Then put the wheels in the can and fill it up with acetone. The next day the wheels are like brand new.
 
I know what to do! Put an insane gear ratio on your rustler and put the tires on it and pull the trigger full blast with one wheel at a stand still. It will blast the tires right off of the rims!
 
I know what to do! Put an insane gear ratio on your rustler and put the tires on it and pull the trigger full blast with one wheel at a stand still. It will blast the tires right off of the rims!
I can't since I stripped the hexes.
 
I'm a fan of the near efforless acetone fume method. Worked great on removing the stock wheels/tires of my TRX4. Didn't appear to affect the rubber compound of the crawler tires at all. However, my first try with stock SCX24 wheels ended up with the wheels completely liquifying. Be careful of what the wheels are made of.
View attachment 162075
Speaking of wheel compositions... I had a few ZD Racing truggies years ago, and them darn things had ABS-ish wheels (I'm just guessing on the plastic used). For sure they were not nylon based as I used threadlocker on the wheel nuts and the wheels would have hairline cracks throughout it in about an hour.

Also, some wheels that are not nylon based will melt in the oven.


Maybe the wheel nuts I am using are the issue I stripped the wheels? I am using cheap amazon aluminum wheel nuts. They do keep backing out so I use alot of loctite on the stub axle. Traxxas offers serrated and fanged wheel nuts. The amazon ones I have are only serrated.
I would go as far as saying wheel nuts that are both flanged and serrated are a must nowadays for 1/10 scale RCs. Flanged, serrated, and nylock insert... even better. As long as wheels are nylon based, I've never had issues of threadlocker usage on wheel nuts "attacking" the plastic. A person just has to remember to let that stuff cure.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top