How do I fit an E-Ring to a shock shaft?

[joshiestevens]

Hi there. I am a beginner in RC cars, and I am just building my Kyosho Inferno TR-15 Stadium force Kit but I dont know how to fit the e-rings to the shock shafts. I am pushing them very hard on the shaft, but nothing is happening. I have already slightly bent one by doing it.

Please help as I am siting by my kit now in a bad mood. Hehe.

Josh

 

[acschurr]

hey there. I have just built the same car - had fun getting them on myself. I ended up doing the following:

Hold the e-ring with the open end up. Rest the shaft in this, and sit it on your workboard. Bring the shaft up so it is perfectly horizontal, then press down as hard as you can directly over the e-ring. Place the baffle in position, and then the second e-ring. To get this one into place I used the back edge of a pair of scissors to push it into place.

Hard to describe, but you'll get there! If you have a pair of long nose pliers, these may help!

Best of luck mate - keep going, it's well worth it!!

-aidan

 

[joshiestevens]

Is it a fast truck,, and good quality?

Also, I found it hard to do the first few steps. it was as if I was forcing the parts together?

Josh

I did what you said.

the E-ring just goes flying.

 

[acschurr]

Pretty new to this nitro game myself, but so far am pretty impressed with the kit. Certainly quick (i have gps-d it at 37mph), and that's not even run in properly yet - still running rich. Not sure about the build quality of the components - seems pretty good to me, but I have read a couple of so-so reviews too. I guess it depends on what you want to do with it - lots of jumps etc will destroy most stock parts pretty quickly! I've put about 7 tanks of gas through since last weekend, and am absolutely loving it!

If first few steps = fitting the ball ends onto the threaded shafts, then I agree with you totally! You're effectively threading the plastic as you go, so a fair bit of force is required. Pleased to know it wasn't just me! IMHO, it's well worth building one of these things yourself rather than just buying an RTR off the shelf - when (not if!) you have to strip the thing down to fix/replace/upgrade you will be so much more in the know as to what goes where blah blah - I have just had it apart today to grease and clean the diff's and check out the clutch - would've balked at this if I hadn't put it together myself!

Originally posted by joshiestevens
the E-ring just goes flying.

Try kind of "shielding" it with your other hand to stop it pinging off. (don't get your fingers jammed tho!)

-aidan

 

[joshiestevens]

I thought it does around 45mph?

 

[acschurr]

Originally posted by joshiestevens
I thought it does around 45mph?

Think it will do once it is fully run in. Still have a bit of leaning out to do. I'm sure you've read all the relevant info too, but breaking in your engine carefully is the name of the game!! Rush that and you'll have a very expensive engine shaped paper weight!

 

[FastEddy]

Make sure you are pressing the e-ring into the groove on the shaft.

 

[GilBeQuick]

I've never seen what you're talking about, but what I do to get an e-clip on is use a pair of needle nose pliers. Gently sit the e-clip on top of the groove and then clamp it down with the pliers. Works every time for me.

 

[joshiestevens]

Does it say how to break it in, in the instruction manual?

Josh

 

[acschurr]

Originally posted by FastEddy
Make sure you are pressing the e-ring into the groove on the shaft.

lol! Didn't think to suggest that! ?Josh?

Originally posted by GilBeQuick
I've never seen what you're talking about, but what I do to get an e-clip on is use a pair of needle nose pliers. Gently sit the e-clip on top of the groove and then clamp it down with the pliers. Works every time for me.

Acutally tried that technique with these (used to use it on my motorbike), but these ones are real awkward buG**rs - couldn't get them to go on that way.

Originally posted by joshiestevens
Does it say how to break it in, in the instruction manual?

It's in the second sheet, all about the engine. Written in somewhat poorly translated english, but still decipherable!

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AT ALL TIMES!!!!!

E Clips WILL in fact take out your eyesight in a split second. No joke men! Goggle up when doing your e-clips. Your eyes deserve it!

Oh yeah, keep your moutch closed too.

 

[joshiestevens]

I have put all the e-clips in, but some of them are bent. Does that matter?

 

[acschurr]

Well done!!

So long as the clips are holding the baffle securely, they should be fine. They aren't subjected to a huge amount of stress...

They are just there to control the flow of oil inside the shock, to slow down the return rate after compression. Push and pull on the baffles a bit, and make sure they're secure. If so, keep going!

Let us know how you get on...

-aidan

 

[joshiestevens]

Hi, I have just fitted the shocks and suspension, but did you find that when you fitted the rear suspension, the rear suspension, and that whole thing we made at the start, just comes off the flange balls. I found that when I started making that part, it was loos and was easy to remove from the flange balls unlike te front suspensions syste that only came off with some pressure.

Did you come accros this problem, and d you know if it is correct?

Josh

Please help. I am trying to build now. I am sitting by my kit now

Josh

 

[acschurr]

which ones are you talking about?

the bottom v-arm?
or some of the othes?

mine were all extremely tight - i wonder if you have used the wrong sized eye-ends (as there are a few spares with the kit). double check these first....

-aidan

 

[joshiestevens]

The bottom V-arm. It comes straight off the flange balls when you give it a slight push, and now because I have the shocks on, it comes off whn I lift the car up.

I wondered why when I was building that part it was alot looser than the front ones.

Josh

 

[acschurr]

ok, that's odd. Did you need to force them to get them on initially? Mine were a tight fit, and went on with a "pop". Check that you have used the right v-arm (I think there was a spare, slightly different, in my kit - hmmn, not sure). Also, check the balls themselves are the correct size - should be listed in the parts section for that step. Get out your ruler if you need to! There's lots of extra bits in this kit, so double check everything you put on it.

Basically all of the weight of the vehicle goes through those bottom arms, so they need to be tight, or else they'll just pop off every time you hit a little bump.

 

[joshiestevens]

Do these arms pop into the flange balls like the 6.8mm balls slip into the rods at the top??

 

[acschurr]

hmmm, just had a thought. Are the bottom arms up the right way? not sure if it actually makes any difference, but it's worth checking...

Originally posted by joshiestevens
Do these arms pop into the flange balls like the 6.8mm balls slip into the rods at the top??

ie with quite a lot of effort?

if so, then definitely yes.

 

[joshiestevens]

Here are pictures of the rear suspension I have built so far:

They will take a while to load. Sorry!