Hi,I'm new to Traxxas Revo and I got few questions

[Bartek]

I just got my self a Traxxas Revo 2.5 in perfect condition but with few missing parts which are:
servo saver for Reverse & Forward (not a big deal,cost no more then £5)
EZ start (but I don't mind that as i prefer a pull start and also the weight of EZ start is massive) so I will have to buy an Pull Start
and Manifold for exhaust.
so all the spare parts will cost me no more then £40

the car it self it like new,super clean,no scratches,used about 10,tires are just like new,no broken parts and many tools and bits and also the controller came with the car but the only thing that was something wrong with the car was that the engine haven't been run for about 12 months because of missing parts,well I will try to make it work as I did not try to start it yet,well I have taken engine apart and clean it and it looks like it's pretty new and still has lots of life left in him,I have give him some after run oil move the cylinder few times and the pressure seems to be very good,hope that it will work and all that I bought of my Friend for just £60 yes just £60 + the second Traxxas Revo 2.5 is one the way to which will be used to and used for spare parts as it's all complete but bit dirty and not started for nearly two years but with out Radio controller but it aint matter as i got 3 different controllers plus an traxxas controller but atleast it will be for the same price yes just another £60 ::

so possibly I will have two complete Traxxas Revo's,one for spares one for fun : for just £120 :

so my questions are:
1)what to do to make an stock Revo 2.5 into a basher that will take lot's of jump's,off road ridding and bashes?
2)how to set up my wheel base for bushing?
3)what to change in stock Revo 2.5 to make it be suitable for bashing
4)what upgrades are worth the money and worth the buy and why?
5)is it better to stick with traxxas engines or as soon as my traxxas engines will die get an big block?
6)what wheels and tires would be best for mud,grass,bit of sand?
7)brushless conversion-is it worth it?
8) did I miss something?

I will be using the Revo for fun only,not for racing and off road only as i got no where to sue it on road,I'm not new to nitro cars but I'm not a Guru as well so don't give to complicated answers
by budget isn't massive as I'm 15 and I don't work yet so try not to pick most expensive parts or etc :\
I hope that I will fit here just fine and btw my name is Bartek :

will add some pictures maybe tomorrow but my Revo it's nothing special as it's all stock....yet : lol.

 

[Captain Chaos]

bashing tires - proline badlands
drop in a 3.3 for $115.00 and go
drop in a Picco .26 red dot for $225.00
drop in a RDTM523 .23 for $250.00
big block kit and .21 bashing engine $150.00-$250.00
red aluminum tie rods and push rods
M2C rear hinge pin plate
M2C 3 shoe clutch
M2C engine brace
but first I would get yourself a controller with adjustable end points,preferably spektrum 2.4,and some digital servos with some good torque and speed.This will make the biggest difference to the performance in my opinion.

drive it and have fun thats what its for

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Get it running and bash 'er up! Don't get too far ahead of yourself. You'll see what breaks, then you can decide what to upgrade. If your on a tight budget, stock parts can be had for very cheap on ebay. Remember, if you break something and are replacing it with stock parts, buy 2 or 3! A arms, knuckles, shocks, ect... You name it, you can find it on ebay for CHEAP!

 

[Tmaxx96]

too bad my tmaxx dont run or id be bashing it right NOW err it angers me wens thing dont work the way they are suppossed to

 

[Bartek]

yeah that's why I'm buying another Revo so I have all the spare parts and nothing missing,with the engine I will wait till the other two Traxxas 2.5 engines will die,which is better traxxas 3.3 or big block?
I don't really need that much speed as i won't race with it.
and I do need lot's of life so I don't have to buy new engines too often and also it must be durable and easy to tune, I was thinking of getting pico 26 designed for Revo because £135 is not that much for an new engine and this engine seem to be very powerful to me any opinions?
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/item/P2-4571-Picco-P2-26-Engine-For-Traxxas-REVO-Pull-Start__2113/

 

[cheeseball01]

yeah that's why I'm buying another Revo so I have all the spare parts and nothing missing,with the engine I will wait till the other two Traxxas 2.5 engines will die,which is better traxxas 3.3 or big block?
I don't really need that much speed as i won't race with it.
and I do need lot's of life so I don't have to buy new engines too often and also it must be durable and easy to tune, I was thinking of getting pico 26 designed for Revo because £135 is not that much for an new engine and this engine seem to be very powerful to me any opinions?
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/item/P2-4571-Picco-P2-26-Engine-For-Traxxas-REVO-Pull-Start__2113/

I ran a Picco .26 for a while It was pretty good. You'll want to go with a close ration tranny gear, or a single speed tranny though. With the wide it sling shots you almost out of control when it hits second. The 3.3 is a great engine for what it is. It's finicky though. I'm partial to OS. You can't go wrong as long as you take care of them. Great engines and nothing maintains a tune like an OS.

Good luck!

 

[Bartek]

as I said,i don't need a rocket and I rather go with longer run times and more life.
and what gearing should I use? now i got a 38 pinion but not sure what I got inside gearbox. what gearing should I use and also are there any stronger bodies or all bodies brake easily?

 

[Tmaxx96]

get an os 21 tm

 

[cptvkirk]

I agree with get it running and bash it up. No point in trying to fix what isn't broke. Since you can get a 3.3 cheaper by sending in your current mill, I'd go with the 3.3 unless you can get the one you have running. Be concerned with wear items such as clutch, brakes, rod ends etc. Stay away from aluminum except maybe pushrods. It bends once, rarely bends back and is not worth the weight. Factory plastic takes more abuse than aluminum "hop ups' One post I saw I will have to agree on is the 2.4g radio. Take all that money you would have dumped into stuff you didn't need and check this radio out. It comes with a lighweight temp probe, rpm sensor, programmable beyond most bashers' imagination, and all temp and rpm info is sent back to the radio for read while in motion. Very minimal weight added to car.

I did miss one upgrade....if you are still putting AA batteries in you car, get a rechargeable pack and be done with it. AA's are not worth the frustration.

 

[Bartek]

okay,now I have spend £50 on spare parts that I need to get my Revo started,today I will also go to my local RC shop in kingston as I have £50 so I will buy 20% fuel,starter pack as I have sold my old car with it and some accessories as well,later on if I will be able to get some cash I will try to buy some hop-ups for my Revo such as:

1:CVD drive shaft complete set £40
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/it...ive-Shaft-Set-For-Traxxas-REVO-2-5-3-3__276f/

2:CVD center drive shaft £35
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/item/TBREVO03-TSAIS-Revo-3-3-Center-CVD-Driveshaft-Set__2770/

3:metal gearing for gear box (I want more Torque for Off Road)
Robinson Racing Steel 1st Gear 43T £20
Robinson Racing Steel 2nd Gear 40T £27

4:all RPM arms BLUE £40

5:new Battery Pack

6:New Wheels and Tires for off road

7:better shocks & springs

when I will buy all of those listed above and when my Traxxas 2.5 engine will die I will buy new engine:
Picco P2 .26 Engine For Traxxas REVO - Pull Start £135
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/item/P2-4571-Picco-P2-26-Engine-For-Traxxas-REVO-Pull-Start__2113/

when I will finish with them my Revo it's gonna be a busher

 

[cptvkirk]

Hope you come back and update once you get up and running.

As far as steel gears and cvd shafts....keep in mind of the weak link theory. Every time you make something more solid, energy that would have been absorbed by that part gets transfered else where. Instead of your whole plastic drive train taking up impacts or shocks, it will now be transfered directly to the parts not upgraded. Eventually, you can go through and upgrade all your gears, all your shafts, and have a solid well built drive train and may handle a little more abuse but you also add more weight and ulitmately more engergy to distribute. So your kinda back where you started except it's more expensive to fix now. I'd keep that slipper clutch just barely tight enough to keep the motor from overspeeding and not an 1/8th turn more.

 

[Bartek]

Hope you come back and update once you get up and running.

As far as steel gears and cvd shafts....keep in mind of the weak link theory. Every time you make something more solid, energy that would have been absorbed by that part gets transfered else where. Instead of your whole plastic drive train taking up impacts or shocks, it will now be transfered directly to the parts not upgraded. Eventually, you can go through and upgrade all your gears, all your shafts, and have a solid well built drive train and may handle a little more abuse but you also add more weight and ulitmately more engergy to distribute. So your kinda back where you started except it's more expensive to fix now. I'd keep that slipper clutch just barely tight enough to keep the motor from overspeeding and not an 1/8th turn more.

wow I did not know that,so I guess that I will stay with Plastic parts
in just one day I have spend £80 on part's and accessories but that's not the end...

 

[cptvkirk]

By no means am i trying to talk you out of your upgrades. If you have the budget...sometimes it's nice to only take it apart once and put all the neat gadgets on in one sitting. metal is certainly stronger just don't do it for the sake of doing it. An ideal driveline will have one weak spot. The one place that when the world works against you in some way, this is the one spot that lets go and you know it so you have a spare or two or three and best of all, it's quick and easy to get to. That was the weakest link thing i was talking about before. All metal can be good, so long as you know where that engergy is going to get transferred to and what is likely to fail next.

Take your time, plan your mods carefully and do them in the right order.

Or...just upgrade it when the original breaks and keep following the chain.

 

[Bartek]

that's what I'm planning to do,I will only up grade when old stock parts brake.