Revo carb linkage help!!!!

[easy rider]

Ok. I finally received all my parts and got the revo ready for breaking. I adjusted the throttle linkage. I thought I had it durable. But, I’m on my third break in tank and the carb won’t return to idle without applying the brake.


This whole setup is kinda stupid. I like the platform no doubt but, the throttle linkage is a severe problem.

Any tips on getting this right? Any aftermarket options? I’m just getting started on this problem and I’m not wanting to spend a month trial and erroring this thing. Thanks fellas.

For what it’s worth, this thing is going to be a bullet!!!!!

 

[easy rider]

Just in case someone every searches this site for an answer to this problem, I found a skinny spring with coils far enough apart, that it could compress to a 1/3or 1/4 of its overall, uncompressed length. I put the this spring on the throttle linkage, behind the horn and in front of the back linkage stop. I adjusted the linkage to get full throttle. And, the spring is doing a great job of closing the carb all the way to the throttle screw.

I haven’t run it much since fixing it. But, it’s working great. Time will tell on durability. I bought some springs from Traxxas that look like they’ll work. I’ll find out after running this till it loses its strength or, I’m convinced it’s a long term option and install the Traxxas spring. If it works there’s not a better way to ensure your carb shuts when you expect it too.

So far it’s been super smooth. Shuts the carb with authority, and no hang ups like my stock option was doing. If you aren’t happy with the stock setup, give this a shot.

If it turns out to be unreliable, I’ll revisit and update the thread.

 

[WickedFog]

Pics would help

 

[easy rider]

A pic of the spring.

 

[Grizz03]

A pic of the spring.

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Doesn't that affect your brakes having a tight spring like that? In other words having a spring there would make your brakes weaker.

BTW: In another post you mentioned getting an OS11K carb. Which one did you get? There are two different ones. One of them is made specifically for the Revo. The Revo version doesn't have the ball end on the throttle slide. Having a straight shaft allows it to work in the Revo's throttle linkage. If you have the ball end that could explain the trouble your having.

 

[easy rider]

The brakes have never been great. I didn’t notice them being any worse since doing it. But, I’ve only driven it for a couple tanks like this. And figured I’d set the brakes once I got it broke in. Looks like I might have gotten a head of myself if the spring makes braking harder.

I’ll have to check that out next tank I’m running.

I have the 11k I took off my tmaxx when the motor just give out. I was indeed using the k carb horn by building up the throttle arm with washers, to get it level. But, when the mail got held up for 7-8 days last storm, I ordered the long horn that comes on the 11kr carb. I was waiting on parts anyway. I’m glad I did that.

Thanks for the heads up on the spring. Like I said before, I’m totally new to the revo. I’m feeling my way through this first one. So, if you’ve got any ideas on making the linkage better, I’m all ears. Thanks.

 

[Grizz03]

Mostly trial and error to get the linkage just right. The best advice I can give is try turning the carb slightly. And then readjust throttle arm so it gets most movement without binding.

This might help:

 

[HDRIDER56]

Ok. I finally received all my parts and got the revo ready for breaking. I adjusted the throttle linkage. I thought I had it durable. But, I’m on my third break in tank and the carb won’t return to idle without applying the brake.


This whole setup is kinda stupid. I like the platform no doubt but, the throttle linkage is a severe problem.

Any tips on getting this right? Any aftermarket options? I’m just getting started on this problem and I’m not wanting to spend a month trial and erroring this thing. Thanks fellas.

For what it’s worth, this thing is going to be a bullet!!!!!

Glad I'm not the only one that sees this. I think my damn carpet gremlins just ate my damn throttle arm. Fell off trying to get the binding out and more free moving. I can't find the damn thing to save my life. Please post pics of your final linkage setup, I'll do the same once I find the frigger

 

[easy rider]

The first several pics are of the after market carb horn I put on it. I’m usually a stock kind of guy. But, early on I realized the whole throttle linkage was stretched to its limits the way it’s set up. Meaning it takes a very strong throttle spring to get the slide to return to the idle stop. It’s just a binding design.

So, I decided to go alloy instead of plastic due to the stress it’s under with that spring. The throttle servo is so strong it really stresses motor mount bolts and the motor mount system. That too made me go alloy. Plus, I broke the stock one that was on it.

The last pic is of the throttle arm and as much of the whole thing as possible. The linkage stop behind the horn on the throttle linkage it just there for a spare it need be. It serves no purpose.

I’m still not happy with mine. I’ve got the whole slide smooth. It doesn’t bind. But, I can see the faintest amount of the slide still in the intake. Does it affect performance? I don’t think so. Because the motors a dream to tune and runs hard. But, if I put any more pressure on the linkage when adjusting, then I currently have, my slide won’t return to the idle stop. I’m talking in right in the middle. One way or the other the slightest way and I loose ground. It’s that finicky.

It’s a fussy design. That requires the carb to be precise. That 10 degrees means 10 degrees. In about two runs from treating mine down and going through the motor bearings. Installing a new cob rod. New bearings through out. A good cleaning. It’s got almost 3/4 gallon through it total. Anyways, I'm going to adjust the carb another degree and I’ll be perfect. It’s just a hard design to work with.

I’m hoping some of these guys with much more experience will see these threads and jump in. That’s why I’m posting so much stuff. I want to learn more if some sees something or has a better idea.

Anyways, good luck. The carb linkage is a dog.

 

[Weezel]

I have mine set with the carb throttle arm straight up and down. Then I turn the carb so the arm is in the throttle linkage bellcrank. Then I do minor adjustments from there.

 

[easy rider]

My carb is a pretty tight fit. Hard to tweak in such a tight spot. But, I think I can make it work. I’ll give that a try next time I’ve got the motor out. Maybe I’ve went too far?

 

[Weezel]

Your throttle arm being at a 45* inside the bellcrank could be what's giving you trouble.

It takes a little bit to get everything adjusted good. I wish I could give you an easier way.

 

[easy rider]

That’s the only way I can set it to keep it from binding the way I’ve got the carb set. Like I was saying after your description on how you do it, I might be several degrees too far versus a degree too short.

But, to start over and adjust the carb that versus from server towards the carb, is gotta be a better way.

Upon looking at it, my carb linkage is too tall to set the carb horn straight down. It needs to be shorter. I’m going to dig out a stock one and see the difference.

 

[HDRIDER56]

The first several pics are of the after market carb horn I put on it. I’m usually a stock kind of guy. But, early on I realized the whole throttle linkage was stretched to its limits the way it’s set up. Meaning it takes a very strong throttle spring to get the slide to return to the idle stop. It’s just a binding design.

So, I decided to go alloy instead of plastic due to the stress it’s under with that spring. The throttle servo is so strong it really stresses motor mount bolts and the motor mount system. That too made me go alloy. Plus, I broke the stock one that was on it.

The last pic is of the throttle arm and as much of the whole thing as possible. The linkage stop behind the horn on the throttle linkage it just there for a spare it need be. It serves no purpose.

I’m still not happy with mine. I’ve got the whole slide smooth. It doesn’t bind. But, I can see the faintest amount of the slide still in the intake. Does it affect performance? I don’t think so. Because the motors a dream to tune and runs hard. But, if I put any more pressure on the linkage when adjusting, then I currently have, my slide won’t return to the idle stop. I’m talking in right in the middle. One way or the other the slightest way and I loose ground. It’s that finicky.

It’s a fussy design. That requires the carb to be precise. That 10 degrees means 10 degrees. In about two runs from treating mine down and going through the motor bearings. Installing a new cob rod. New bearings through out. A good cleaning. It’s got almost 3/4 gallon through it total. Anyways, I'm going to adjust the carb another degree and I’ll be perfect. It’s just a hard design to work with.

I’m hoping some of these guys with much more experience will see these threads and jump in. That’s why I’m posting so much stuff. I want to learn more if some sees something or has a better idea.

Anyways, good luck. The carb linkage is a dog.

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You're setup identical to what I went with also. Good minds must think alike. Lmao
I'm just getting back into this hobby, not disclosing my age by any means, but I grew up with the COX and Testers gas string controlled RC stuff. I'm loving these ones with actual remotes. Lol
Everyone told me to get electric to start out, where's the fun in that. I have the Revo 2.5 (free no charge, gifted to me) and a Jato 3.3 I got on the cheap for a project car. Both are semi running with maybe a little over $250/$300 total investment. I've learned with the Jato, my RC car driving skills SUCK. Lol

 

[easy rider]

You're setup identical to what I went with also. Good minds must think alike. Lmao
I'm just getting back into this hobby, not disclosing my age by any means, but I grew up with the COX and Testers gas string controlled RC stuff. I'm loving these ones with actual remotes. Lol
Everyone told me to get electric to start out, where's the fun in that. I have the Revo 2.5 (free no charge, gifted to me) and a Jato 3.3 I got on the cheap for a project car. Both are semi running with maybe a little over $250/$300 total investment. I've learned with the Jato, my RC car driving skills SUCK. Lol

View attachment 184441

I’ve got electric cars and enjoy the sheer torque and sped they produce. I like the plug and play factor too. But, I’m obsessed in building my nitros perfect. And dependable. It also makes proper maintinence easy. All my nitros are really good. Dependable. My tmaxxs are great. My revo is good. But, that carb linkage is driving me crazy.

Also, the factory block horn is a perfect match to the alloy one. It jarred my memory too. I at my current throttle linkage, the horn put a ton of pressure on the slide. When at idle. In other words, the slide returns to idle to quick if you square the carb up any more. But, that’s working from servo to carb. Working from carb to servo might be the answer for sure.

 

[HDRIDER56]

I’ve got electric cars and enjoy the sheer torque and sped they produce. I like the plug and play factor too. But, I’m obsessed in building my nitros perfect. And dependable. It also makes proper maintinence easy. All my nitros are really good. Dependable. My tmaxxs are great. My revo is good. But, that carb linkage is driving me crazy.

Is your Revo the 2.5 or 3.3? I've read where the original trans setup isn't built to handle the power from the 3.3? Once I finish get everything in good running condition I would like to upgrade to the 3.3. Are you using the inside or outside threaded hole for your linkage connection? I was. Using the outside, wondering if I should be using the inside one?

 

[easy rider]

Mine is a 2.5. However, the previous owner had upgraded the transmission to the 3.3. He had upgraded the whole car basically. And wore those upgrades out. lol

 

[HDRIDER56]

Mine is a 2.5. However, the previous owner had upgraded the transmission to the 3.3. He had upgraded the whole car basically. And wore those upgrades out. lol

I haven't read up on any transmission upgrades, assuming gearing ratios and or metal gears?

 

[Weezel]

Here is how mine is adjusted

 

[HDRIDER56]

You're using the inside threaded hole, I believe that's where mine was before tearing everything down. I read a post somewhere that mentioned using the outside one worked better? I couldn't get that squared up no binding connection. Putting back together now