Flysky GT3B problems

[Riteheer]

Disclaimer: Total Newb here.
I purchased a Flysky GT3B on Amz, and the first one seemed a bit quirky whenever I turned on the transmitter it took minutes for me to get throttle signal to my STC. The steering worked right away, and I thought perhaps I had a bad connection somewhere and would figure out after practice. But I also noticed while using it that the transmitter would start beeping like low voltage and I tested all the brand new Duracel batteries and all were full. I replaced them all with more new ones just in case my battery tester was lying, same result. And often when I tilted the transmitter it would do the same thing. I could turn it off and back on again and it would be fine until I tilted it again.
Then I noticed that when I lost connectivity it also lost my EPA settings. And they didn't resort to 100% in both directions, they would be 70% to left and 100% to right.
So, I sent it back and requested a replacement, which came quickly in the mail.
Last nite I took the new one, tested all new batteries and put them in, and I like to never got it to turn on, I noticed without the on/off switch being pressed when I was putting batteries in, it started beeping. Then when I put the battery door on and turned it up right, I couldn't get it to turn on. I had to slide the door open and push around rotating the batteries to get it to turn on. I finally got it back on, and as long as I don't jostle it I can turn it off and on, but I'm certain most of the issue is the batteries not staying in correct contact. I'm just not sure if there is a fix for this. I also noted that when it loses connection to the batteries, it loses all settings and adjustments, is this normal?
I really liked the price on this, having spent enough on the new Tekno SCT410SL kit and electronics, but at the same time, I'm a bit disheartened to have two in a row with reliability issues. I just thought I would post on here and see if anyone had a solution or fix, or if not, recommendations for the next level up, cost wise in a controller. Should I expect this with other Flysky controllers? or are the more expensive models more reliable?

 

[Chubaka]

I recently purchased a gt5 6 channel radio from ebay for around $60. If the new one acts up I would get that model. Worse case scenario you can have extra channels for lights and what not.

Maybe put a paper towel or foam under them. My last traxxas radio got bad with time. The slightest bump and it blacks out. If I was walking across a parking lot the slightest hit against my leg or knife and the truck coasts.

 

[bill_delong]

...Should I expect this with other Flysky controllers?...

Many years ago I had swore off FlySky thinking I would never buy their products again due to myriad of quality issues which you've quickly discovered, and you've only touched the tip of the iceberg!

Keep in mind what you've bought is VERY dated technology where for the most part in this industry you get what you pay for.

Fast forward 10+ years with the evolution of current technology, the Fly Sky Noble series is indeed a high quality product that rivals $600 systems for nearly 1/3 the price. I know dozens of racers (myself included) who are having really good luck with the Noble.

If you will be doing any club racing on a track, then this is the bare minimum system that I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B08XW6CFLJ/

If you're just going to be bashing around in the yard where performance isn't important, then consider Radiolink which is 2 generations better than what you bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Receiver-Controller/dp/B07DPMVVKN

 

[Rafatus]

You bound the rx and tx right?

 

[STONER RC]

Disclaimer: Total Newb here.
I purchased a Flysky GT3B on Amz, and the first one seemed a bit quirky whenever I turned on the transmitter it took minutes for me to get throttle signal to my STC. The steering worked right away, and I thought perhaps I had a bad connection somewhere and would figure out after practice. But I also noticed while using it that the transmitter would start beeping like low voltage and I tested all the brand new Duracel batteries and all were full. I replaced them all with more new ones just in case my battery tester was lying, same result. And often when I tilted the transmitter it would do the same thing. I could turn it off and back on again and it would be fine until I tilted it again.
Then I noticed that when I lost connectivity it also lost my EPA settings. And they didn't resort to 100% in both directions, they would be 70% to left and 100% to right.
So, I sent it back and requested a replacement, which came quickly in the mail.
Last nite I took the new one, tested all new batteries and put them in, and I like to never got it to turn on, I noticed without the on/off switch being pressed when I was putting batteries in, it started beeping. Then when I put the battery door on and turned it up right, I couldn't get it to turn on. I had to slide the door open and push around rotating the batteries to get it to turn on. I finally got it back on, and as long as I don't jostle it I can turn it off and on, but I'm certain most of the issue is the batteries not staying in correct contact. I'm just not sure if there is a fix for this. I also noted that when it loses connection to the batteries, it loses all settings and adjustments, is this normal?
I really liked the price on this, having spent enough on the new Tekno SCT410SL kit and electronics, but at the same time, I'm a bit disheartened to have two in a row with reliability issues. I just thought I would post on here and see if anyone had a solution or fix, or if not, recommendations for the next level up, cost wise in a controller. Should I expect this with other Flysky controllers? or are the more expensive models more reliable?

Whats up bud. Sorry to hear about the situation yoru haven with the flysky gt3B. Alot of the guys here run the flysky radios including my slef. Like @Chubaka i run a
gt5 6chan and i also run the GT3B. But did some modification to the gt3.

Sounds like there might be some bad wire connections. Or one of the individual battery slots. With the tabs in the battery compartment. Are not maken complete contact. Have you checked any of those connections? You can open it up and check if that's something you feel comfortable doing..

Personally I would open up the controller. Witch is only about 5-6 screws. And check and see if there is anything lose or not maken contact with something. Causing the short and problem.

You bound the rx and tx right?

That was my next question. Binding and calibration of them together

 

[Riteheer]

You bound the rx and tx right?

They came bound, but I did follow the process and rebind. I have been messing around with it this morning, and even if I don't lose connectivity with batteries, when I turn the transmitter off, the EPA settings resort to default of 100% on both directions.

 

[STONER RC]

They came bound, but I did follow the process and rebind. I have been messing around with it this morning, and even if I don't lose connectivity with batteries, when I turn the transmitter off, the EPA settings resort to default of 100% on both directions.

Ok so got a stupid question.. You always want to bind and calibrate your new TX and RX. Never just trust they are from the factory.. sometime they aren't and especially the calibration of the thottle..

When your setting the EPA of your servos. Are you saving the percentages that you're choosing. You have to save each one when your picking/ changing the percentage rate. For whitch ever servo your setting..

Or it will not be programmed and return to default every time. You have to make sure you save the percentages when you change the. Or it will always return to the default setting.

 

[Xraycer]

Many years ago I had swore off FlySky thinking I would never buy their products again due to myriad of quality issues which you've quickly discovered, and you've only touched the tip of the iceberg!

Keep in mind what you've bought is VERY dated technology where for the most part in this industry you get what you pay for.

Fast forward 10+ years with the evolution of current technology, the Fly Sky Noble series is indeed a high quality product that rivals $600 systems for nearly 1/3 the price. I know dozens of racers (myself included) who are having really good luck with the Noble.

If you will be doing any club racing on a track, then this is the bare minimum system that I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Flysky-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B08XW6CFLJ/

If you're just going to be bashing around in the yard where performance isn't important, then consider Radiolink which is 2 generations better than what you bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Radiolink-2-4GHz-Transmitter-Receiver-Controller/dp/B07DPMVVKN

I've owned a cheapo FS-gt2 for over 10 years now, and still using it. I don't race, so top performance isn't necessary.
A couple of years I picked up a gt3, just because it was a cool orange color.

 

[tntpoof]

send back to ebay seller.

 

[Riteheer]

Ok so got a stupid question.. You always want to bind and calibrate your new TX and RX. Never just trust they are from the factory.. sometime they aren't and especially the calibration of the thottle..

When your setting the EPA of your servos. Are you saving the percentages that you're choosing. You have to save each one when your picking/ changing the percentage rate. For whitch ever servo your setting..

Or it will not be programmed and return to default every time. You have to make sure you save the percentages when you change the. Or it will always return to the default setting.

Ok, I didn't realize it was necessary to bind on every new one, but good info for future.
As for setting the EPA, I set it, then save it, then go back in and set the opposite side, as in Left, save, then right, save, and when I exit out of the settings and then go back in, the settings are correct for what I saved it as. But after I turn off the TX, and turn it back on again, it reverts to 100% on both Left and Right. This is in reference to C1 for the steering EPA. I haven't messed with a lot of the other settings on this new one yet, but I think since it's brand new, I'm going to box it back up and send it back, and look at another model up.

 

[Xraycer]

Ok, I didn't realize it was necessary to bind on every new one, but good info for future.

It can save programming for 10 different models/receivers. Plenty of tutorials on YT on how to fully utilize this transmitter.

 

[bill_delong]

I've owned a cheapo FS-gt2 for over 10 years now, and still using it. I don't race, so top performance isn't necessary.
A couple of years I picked up a gt3, just because it was a cool orange color.

I've bought and tested nearly every imaginable radio that was ever released from FlySky and prior to the Noble, I've had a 100% fail rate with every single system.

I will concede that the no frills systems without LED screens would prove to be more reliable, however their Rx's would all fail in due time. At first I would feel that a $8 Rx (cost to replace at the time) was no big deal. I was maintaining 25+ vehicles in my collection which I shared with my kids and all their friends in the neighborhood. Within 6 months I started seeing a pattern of failures making me realize that keeping FlySky in the long run was not sustainable. I started experimenting with other brands of systems and it became a pleasure to test and discover what I would find as the best budget system that would actually stand the test of time.

I almost never had to replace any Rx's from Radiolink as they proved to be far more reliable over the years.

My kids have grown and I've switched from being a basher into 100% racer now so I've drastically thinned my collection of cars down to 4. I am more focused on quality than quantity, and have learned that the newer FlySky Noble components can handle the rigors of racing, though I recently loaned a spare Rx to a fellow racer at the track who had a Rx fail on him which has me questioning if their quality is still dicey... I've got nearly a full year on my Noble without a failure yet so this is the only system that will get my blessing of what FlySky has to offer.

Side note, my stable would see some serious abuse on a race track as random children would crash my cars often, I also offered a rental service at the track so my gear would tend to see more use than your average basher. Nonetheless my wallet is what speaks volumes when comparing long term maintenance costs between the dozen or so brands of radio systems I've tested over the years.


*** UPDATE ***

here's a Dasmikro modified GT3C that I owned that very few people knew once existed as an 8Ch system, just sharing for fun even though the radio would prove to be a turd in the long run:

 

[Xraycer]

I've bought and tested nearly every imaginable radio that was ever released from FlySky and prior to the Noble, I've had a 100% fail rate with every single system.

I will concede that the no frills systems without LED screens would prove to be more reliable, however their Rx's would all fail in due time. At first I would feel that a $8 Rx (cost to replace at the time) was no big deal. I was maintaining 25+ vehicles in my collection which I shared with my kids and all their friends in the neighborhood. Within 6 months I started seeing a pattern of failures making me realize that keeping FlySky in the long run was not sustainable. I started experimenting with other brands of systems and it became a pleasure to test and discover what I would find as the best budget system that would actually stand the test of time.

I almost never had to replace any Rx's from Radiolink as they proved to be far more reliable over the years.

My kids have grown and I've switched from being a basher into 100% racer now so I've drastically thinned my collection of cars down to 4. I am more focused on quality than quantity, and have learned that the newer FlySky Noble components can handle the rigors of racing, though I recently loaned a spare Rx to a fellow racer at the track who had a Rx fail on him which has me questioning if their quality is still dicey... I've got nearly a full year on my Noble without a failure yet so this is the only system that will get my blessing of what FlySky has to offer.

Side note, my stable would see some serious abuse on a race track as random children would crash my cars often, I also offered a rental service at the track so my gear would tend to see more use than your average basher. Nonetheless my wallet is what speaks volumes when comparing long term maintenance costs between the dozen or so brands of radio systems I've tested over the years.

I've mistakenly wrote gt2, but it's actually a gt3b, that I've owned now for +10 years. It still works fine, and I have my basher on those. As mentioned earlier, I picked up gt3c just because I like the orange color. My crawlers are on that one.

 

[bill_delong]

Yup, I owned the GT3B as well, I even did the 0.6.1 firmware update, while I never had any software issues with this system, the power buttons would tend to fail over time, any push button power switch with a spring is just a bad design

 

[Xraycer]

Yup, I owned the GT3B as well, I even did the 0.6.1 firmware update, while I never had any software issues with this system, the power buttons would tend to fail over time, any push button power switch with a spring is just a bad design

+10 years and still going. Never had a single rx(out of about a dozen)failed. I guess I'm just super lucky.
Honestly, for the dirt low price, I would be content if it lasted for just 5 years.

 

[STONER RC]

I've bought and tested nearly every imaginable radio that was ever released from FlySky and prior to the Noble, I've had a 100% fail rate with every single system.

I will concede that the no frills systems without LED screens would prove to be more reliable, however their Rx's would all fail in due time. At first I would feel that a $8 Rx (cost to replace at the time) was no big deal. I was maintaining 25+ vehicles in my collection which I shared with my kids and all their friends in the neighborhood. Within 6 months I started seeing a pattern of failures making me realize that keeping FlySky in the long run was not sustainable. I started experimenting with other brands of systems and it became a pleasure to test and discover what I would find as the best budget system that would actually stand the test of time.

I almost never had to replace any Rx's from Radiolink as they proved to be far more reliable over the years.

My kids have grown and I've switched from being a basher into 100% racer now so I've drastically thinned my collection of cars down to 4. I am more focused on quality than quantity, and have learned that the newer FlySky Noble components can handle the rigors of racing, though I recently loaned a spare Rx to a fellow racer at the track who had a Rx fail on him which has me questioning if their quality is still dicey... I've got nearly a full year on my Noble without a failure yet so this is the only system that will get my blessing of what FlySky has to offer.

Side note, my stable would see some serious abuse on a race track as random children would crash my cars often, I also offered a rental service at the track so my gear would tend to see more use than your average basher. Nonetheless my wallet is what speaks volumes when comparing long term maintenance costs between the dozen or so brands of radio systems I've tested over the years.


*** UPDATE ***

here's a Dasmikro modified GT3C that I owned that very few people knew once existed as an 8Ch system, just sharing for fun even though the radio would prove to be a turd in the long run:

Question where are you picking up these flysky systems. I'm curious to where. Just like @Xraycer I haven't had any issues with my GT3B. And I did the lipo mod and bearing in wheel mod. Never needed the firmware mod. Also have the GT5 with no problem with that one. This is interesting.

And that's awesome that. You let the neighborhood kids. Run all the RC and have fun. Thats got to be a blast to see them all out bashing. But like you said they took a beating all the time

 

[bigbristv]

I just picked up a gt3b and it is working great for me. And as far as the batteries the transmitter tells you the voltage so you can easily stay on top of that.

My first guess was either you got bad ones or someone got in there, tried to hack it and returned. That happens sometimes with items bought especially on Amazon.

Before tooling around with it yourself I would return until ingot one that works.

 

[bill_delong]

I was an early adopter and bought my firsy FlySky system in 2010, never had a failure when racing on-road and bashing around the house jumping curbs, all failures occurred on a outdoor dusty 1/8 track with big jumps.

Most common problem after landing from a big jump is the Rx would lose it's bind, no big deal after re-binding the Rx, HOWEVER.... it would get progressively worse until eventually the Rx required to be re-binded almost every time it was turned on and eventually just wouldn't take a re-bind anymore. After replacing a dozen or so Rx's to mitigate this issue only to discover the same cars that had already had a Rx replaced several times forced to start exploring other brands of radio systems.

Other problems I experienced were faulty switches either on the on/off button or sometimes the jog wheel would get stuck. Springs would snap either on the steering wheel or throttle trigger.

I just dealt with it because they were the only game in town for budget systems back then.

It's possible they may have improved their quality over the years, and where I bought them is irrelevant because most of those stores are long gone, all that matters is that they came from the same OEM. That video I posted above on the 8Ch mod to the GT3C was the last Fly Sky (for that generation of radio) I bought in 2016 from Bang Good.

The irony is that while I have never experienced an issue with Radiolink, I have seen others report of quality issues with that system too!

I no longer run budget electronics anymore, I've been burned enough times to know it's cheaper to buy once with higher quality, been there done that

 

[JCsRCcar]

I had all kinds of problems with my FlySky radio when I tried it and got rid of it soon after. It’s a Chinese POS. I went back to the Traxxas TQI which worked reliably without any of those issues. The features of the GT5 radio are nice but the radio is not reliable and it has issues.

 

[bigbristv]

I had all kinds of problems with my FlySky radio when I tried it and got rid of it soon after. It’s a Chinese POS. I went back to the Traxxas TQI which worked reliably without any of those issues. The features of the GT5 radio are nice but the radio is not reliable and it has issues.

So were clear, I wasn't complaining. I actually think this could be useful. You know,, so my imaginary bud can run with me.