Flysky GT3B problems

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I appreciate everyone's feedback... and after 2 failures in a row, I decided to change things up just a little. Yes, the budget electronics are no where near as reliable or efficient as the higher end tech, but it's easier for me to start with a higher end vehicle, and then upgrade down the road as the need arises. I spent my first nite on a track a couple of weeks ago, and quickly realized I have a long way to go before I will catch up with the ability of my truck. I spent a about $20 more and tried a RadioLink, RC4GSv3... the battery tray is much better designed for AA batts on this one, and I think that may have been part of the troubles I had with the FS. I use Duracell ProCell batteries, and they may be a little different than the cheaper batteries? Not really sure because I typically buy Duracell only. Years of testing have provided me all of the information I need to know this is best for me.
I have not driven with the new radio yet, but I can say it has way more features than I need for starting out and even has some Nitro features I will likely never use, but I was able to get it up and running in the living room without any major issues. The directions do leave a considerable gap in the knowledge department, but between a few videos and my techno desire I was able to get my steering EPA set and programmed the timer, so I can race against myself the next time I get practice time on the local tracks. I'm pleased so far, much more when compared to my previous experience.
Tekno SCT410SL > HW 3660 G2 (4300kv) > HW SR8-SCT ESC > ProTek 2s 9600 mah LIHV > JConcepts Green compound SCT tires > ProLine SCT body > EcoPower WP120T servo > RL RC4GSv3 w/R6FG receiver.
See you in the Dirt!
 
I appreciate everyone's feedback... and after 2 failures in a row, I decided to change things up just a little. Yes, the budget electronics are no where near as reliable or efficient as the higher end tech, but it's easier for me to start with a higher end vehicle, and then upgrade down the road as the need arises. I spent my first nite on a track a couple of weeks ago, and quickly realized I have a long way to go before I will catch up with the ability of my truck. I spent a about $20 more and tried a RadioLink, RC4GSv3... the battery tray is much better designed for AA batts on this one, and I think that may have been part of the troubles I had with the FS. I use Duracell ProCell batteries, and they may be a little different than the cheaper batteries? Not really sure because I typically buy Duracell only. Years of testing have provided me all of the information I need to know this is best for me.
I have not driven with the new radio yet, but I can say it has way more features than I need for starting out and even has some Nitro features I will likely never use, but I was able to get it up and running in the living room without any major issues. The directions do leave a considerable gap in the knowledge department, but between a few videos and my techno desire I was able to get my steering EPA set and programmed the timer, so I can race against myself the next time I get practice time on the local tracks. I'm pleased so far, much more when compared to my previous experience.
Tekno SCT410SL > HW 3660 G2 (4300kv) > HW SR8-SCT ESC > ProTek 2s 9600 mah LIHV > JConcepts Green compound SCT tires > ProLine SCT body > EcoPower WP120T servo > RL RC4GSv3 w/R6FG receiver.
See you in the Dirt!
Glad to see you got it sorted. FWIW if you remove that "strap" in the battery tray of the transmitter (should be Tx?), the batteries will lose contact even with the door closed.
 

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