• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Build Thread David's Tamiya TT-02 10th scale On-Road TC build

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
WickedFog said:
If you look under the chassis, the bellcrank screws can be drilled through and the chassis has nut pockets molded in to add nuts to the underside.

Doing that is supposed to help some
Click to expand...
What I did was grab some long hex screws with a head caps, grease them with silicone or low friction grease, shove a brass insert into each bellcrank, tighten from underneath, then 3mm nuts over the bellcranks.

I basically copied what Tamiya themselves reccomend for the TT02 SR. This made for a very stiff and sturdy setup, but it didn't necessarily fix the steering. It just kept the bellcranks from loosening up.

A cheap fix that might help is a set of metal pivot balls for the front, the stock plastic ones get sloppy quick. I can't make any promises though. I'm just glad that I'm rid of anything TT and went with a Fazer.
 
Last edited:
WickedFog said:
Yeah, those curved Amazon scissors are crap. Throw them in the garbage. Get some good straight scissors to do the main areas of the body. For the wheel wells and any curved areas I can't trim off with scissors I lightly score it with an Xacto blade and snap those areas off. Works great in the wheel openings. Score the openings, then cut relief cuts to break the wheel openings out in little sections.
Click to expand...
These work amazingly well on lexan & the fender wells. Just got thru trimming a Jconcepts Finnisher body last week for my K6 & they did a great job. I still sanded everything w/ 180g sandpaper, but much less time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3736473743...q7FPNHENTvG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS
 
Took all the electronics out. Sitting as a roller on display. TT project on hold as I want to focus on the off-road cars during summer. Gonna pick up back on the TT during the fall. Wanting a full rebuild but if not I'll just air compress it all off to make it cleaner.

PXL_20240608_034739630.MP.webp


PXL_20240608_034744309.MP.webp


PXL_20240608_035031768.webp


PXL_20240608_035035918.webp
 
Updated my list:
Aluminum bellcranks (with bearings and tie rods)
_______________ The rest below is only if the bellcrank helps the car go straight
set of .6 mod pinion gears, new spur gear and aluminum mounts and such.
set of tires for aluminum wheels
honda civic hatchback body. Either the castrol body, or eg6 body from the tt02d
Tamiya orange paint (gonna talk to my uncle to see which paints are the best)
And since I'm planning to get a new brushless system for the rustler soon, the system I currently have in there will go into the TT which is a gen1 max10 60a and 3652 4000kv setup. But if that doesn't happen, ill solder up that Yeah Racing 13T 540 motor and one of my traxxas motors and tests those out. should be way faster than the tamiya tuned ones.

I was looking at cheap goolrc combos on amazon and I'm like yeah, I don't wanna risk it getting a bad batch of those things.

Last drive with the TT02, yea that wasn't true. Lol.
 
DavidB1126 said:
Updated my list:
Aluminum bellcranks (with bearings and tie rods)
_______________ The rest below is only if the bellcrank helps the car go straight
Click to expand...
I'd buy a better servo before buying anymore upgrades, actually I would have bought a better servo before buying the bellcranks.

Yea its just a TT02, but you can always take your "good" servo and install it into something else. If you funnel money into hop-ups and they don't work out, you can't migrate those hop-ups to a better RC.
 
I visually see what's going on. Can't be the servo. The servo returns to center. It's a good and cheap hexfly servo. The bellcrank won't return to center making the car go all over the place. I can try another servo which what I have is a spare Traxxas 2056 but I guarantee it will have the same issue.

I put grease on where every screw attaches to the bellcrank. I also put a longer hex screw in and a couple washers which I feel like it made the steering slightly better, but you can still notice it won't return to center and still making it not drive straight. Also sometimes at the point where I have to constantly try to trim the servo through my radio.
 
DavidB1126 said:
I visually see what's going on. Can't be the servo. The servo returns to center. It's a good and cheap hexfly servo. The bellcrank won't return to center making the car go all over the place. I can try another servo which what I have is a spare Traxxas 2056 but I guarantee it will have the same issue.
Click to expand...
Heres a list of things to check from my experience:

1. Make sure that none of the screws in the bellcrank system or the a-arm pivot balls are too tight, this will cause binding.

2. Test it off the ground, its tougher for servos to return to center when the cars on the ground and sitting still.

3. The pivot balls might be worn out, the grease that the manual asks you to apply traps dirt, so they wear out in only a few runs.

4. As with any Tamiya owner, make frequent sanity checks!

I think you're beginning to see why I quit messing with Tamiyas myself.
 
Panko75 said:
Heres a list of things to check from my experience:

1. Make sure that none of the screws in the bellcrank system or the a-arm pivot balls are too tight, this will cause binding.

2. Test it off the ground, its tougher for servos to return to center when the cars on the ground and sitting still.

3. The pivot balls might be worn out, the grease that the manual asks you to apply traps dirt, so they wear out in only a few runs.

4. As with any Tamiya owner, make frequent sanity checks!

I think you're beginning to see why I quit messing with Tamiyas myself.
Click to expand...
It's none of that. The Tamiya bellcrank, a-arm, and everything else to do with steering is garbage. Even with an aluminum bellcrank the car goes wherever it wants because there is slop in every component on the car.even the rear a-arm assembly csuses the car to wander around.
 
Well, took it out for a drive like a couple weeks ago.

Don't know what I did or do but if I do a turn, all the power goes to one of the rear wheels, the other wheel has no power transfer, and the front wheels are locked up. Guess I stripped the diffs or a gear or something. Insane. And its still on brushed power! To be fair I think those gears were plastic anyways, and we know tamiyas plastic quality...
 
Welp. Been a while innit?

If no one wants it in a couple weeks, ill start new plans for it. Since I have no interest in onroad, it will be mainly a shelf queen. With a nice clean body, and tires for the aluminum wheels.

IF I get a expensive steering rack and steering parts and IF it fixes that "mind of its own" driving, I will get a cheapo amazon BL combo to put in there, with a new motor mount and pinion, and if it rips without breaking anything, it might change my mind on onroad. (Edit: Also if I fix or get new diff gears for that last post I did earlier this month) But in all, mainly a shelf queen.

New body, thinking about a hatchback civic in all orange I got, and getting quality scissors and taking my time to cut out 100 stickers. :rolleyes: 🙃

No intentions on racing it. That will go way to deep I already know it.

Also if it does rip, Ill find another set of stock friction shocks as those feel way better than these too springy aluminum oiled ones.

Maybe if I can get it to corner well, I can have a mini road course setup in the school parking lot. 🤔

Will this go to plan? most likely not lol
 
CertifiedMike said:
The steering doesn't return to center in the video. Is there any binding in the steering?
I have over torqued a screw or 2 in my steering and found the bellcrank posts were bindind. Similarly, overtightened the kingpins on the steering hubs and bound up there.
I also get crap response with a plastic bellcrank where a metal one took a ton of slop out and also helped the steering re-center. I don't want to suggest investing a lot in this car but is there a cheap metal bellcrank set that you could try before the car is set on the shelf?
I shimmed the heck out of the suspension which tightened the whole car up a lot.
Just some thoughts. It looks like it goes pretty good @45%!!!
Click to expand...

Didn't we have the 'new bellcrank and shim" convo a few months ago? 🙄😆
I'm very curious to see how you make out with this issue and what the fix(es) "turn" out to be!
 

Similar threads

BigBaja
  • Showcase: Item Showcase: Item
Build Showcase Tamiya Unimog #406
Replies
4
Views
161
BigBaja
BigBaja
Ritz413
Build Thread Tamiya TT02....mostly pics
2
Replies
37
Views
1K
Ritz413
Ritz413
kaladeth
Build Thread 1/8 Serpent 988E Electric On-road Pan Car
Replies
7
Views
343
RudyF6
RudyF6
Muscle_Car_Lover
  • Showcase: Item Showcase: Item
Build Showcase 1/12 Scale Losi AWD NASCAR
Replies
4
Views
235
CertifiedMike
CertifiedMike
James A. Doty
Build Thread 1:12th Scale Rollback Truck Ideas
2 3
Replies
42
Views
810
James A. Doty
James A. Doty

RC Builds

Back
Top