Danchee Ridgerock mods

[bozo]

I got the creepy crawly bug when I started on my AX24 build, but waiting on parts is really frustrating
Axial AX24 build
So in the meantime my LHS had a good price on the Danchee Ridgerock. After watching some tube stuff it seems this rig punches way above its weight.
OOB it was a floppy mess but with a few tweaks (also from the tubes) it really woke up.
Did the tummy tuck and spring pen mod. Moved the ESC/RX to the front angled part of the frame.
Stock tires were not that good so I put on a set of Amazon HobbyPark tires, an imitation version of the OG Prolines. Reused the original foams instead of the HobbyPark ones. A bit smaller but gives a little more "squish".
Stock servos were a little weak so on went some 35kg ones from the parts pile.
Added some shock keys and 15mm hub extensions to give a better stance and clearance.
With the shock keys on the original body wouldn't fit so I slapped on a cheapo body from Goodwill- yes, it isn't an Everest but at least it's a Redcat
It's set up to use a number of different battery sizes.
Next is to add some weight and maybe some Everest 10 hi clearance links.
If anyone else has one chime in- what kind of mods, thoughts and ideas you have.

 

[turbo27]

Awesome dude.

 

[Krakentuned RC]

That's a clean build! I love the 4WS. I didn't know they have MOA, and SOA! I might need to do some research on these. Any plans for motor upgrades? Or are those pretty limited due to size limitations? 540 can? Or smaller? I wonder if changing the pinion up front would basically be like over-driving on a regular crawler?

 

[bozo]

Any plans for motor upgrades? Or are those pretty limited due to size limitations?

Motors are 380 size, some say that a 390 will fit. Equivalent brushless sizes are 380=2838 and 390=2845. Motor shafts are 2.3mm and use an 8 tooth pinion (not sure of the pitch). Lots of people are using Dynamite Tazer 37T 380 cans but the stock ESC may not like the increased current draw, especially if the servos are upgraded. At this point I'm going to keep the motors stock and upgrade the motors/ESC/gears as stuff breaks. Increasing power will break something. The axles are pretty thin, and the steering knuckles are plastic. The Stock gears are also plastic, but Redcat now offers a metal gear set for both axles for $25. I went ahead and got the metal gear set and a spare pair of knuckles that will be installed when I decide what motor/ESC to use. I'll probably start with a Hobbywing QUICRUN WP 880 Dual Brushed ESC (2-4S) to replace the factory ESC/RX and keep the factory motors. It's cheap and has programmability. Only problem is replacing the TX/RX and keeping the steering switching is a problem. Lots of hacks on the webs (Flysky, etc.) but no real PnP solutions yet. I'm working this issue for both this rig and my AX24 build.

I wonder if changing the pinion up front would basically be like over-driving on a regular crawler?

Can't see why not, limiting factor may be availability and pitch. Maybe a 10T in the front? I'll check into it.
Lots of potential in this rig, just remember it's $140 and built to that price point. Just adding stronger servos, better tires and doing the free mods gives a vast improvement for around $75. With Redcat now offering the Ridgerunner that's basically the same chassis with portals maybe we'll see some more aftermarket support. Redcat says they will offer the portals as a kit for the Ridgerock but no price or availability announced yet. That's definitely on my list!

 

[Xraycer]

Fantastic job transforming that ugly duckling!

 

[Willy0942]

I got the creepy crawly bug when I started on my AX24 build, but waiting on parts is really frustrating
Axial AX24 build
So in the meantime my LHS had a good price on the Danchee Ridgerock. After watching some tube stuff it seems this rig punches way above its weight.
OOB it was a floppy mess but with a few tweaks (also from the tubes) it really woke up.
Did the tummy tuck and spring pen mod. Moved the ESC/RX to the front angled part of the frame.
Stock tires were not that good so I put on a set of Amazon HobbyPark tires, an imitation version of the OG Prolines. Reused the original foams instead of the HobbyPark ones. A bit smaller but gives a little more "squish".
Stock servos were a little weak so on went some 35kg ones from the parts pile.
Added some shock keys and 15mm hub extensions to give a better stance and clearance.
With the shock keys on the original body wouldn't fit so I slapped on a cheapo body from Goodwill- yes, it isn't an Everest but at least it's a Redcat
It's set up to use a number of different battery sizes.
Next is to add some weight and maybe some Everest 10 hi clearance links.
If anyone else has one chime in- what kind of mods, thoughts and ideas you have.
View attachment 179914View attachment 179917View attachment 179918View attachment 179919View attachment 179920View attachment 179921

Sweet. I like the mods. I have one also. I love this thing, cheap and keeps up with my capra with some easy mods

 

[Willy0942]

Motors are 380 size, some say that a 390 will fit. Equivalent brushless sizes are 380=2838 and 390=2845. Motor shafts are 2.3mm and use an 8 tooth pinion (not sure of the pitch). Lots of people are using Dynamite Tazer 37T 380 cans but the stock ESC may not like the increased current draw, especially if the servos are upgraded. At this point I'm going to keep the motors stock and upgrade the motors/ESC/gears as stuff breaks. Increasing power will break something. The axles are pretty thin, and the steering knuckles are plastic. The Stock gears are also plastic, but Redcat now offers a metal gear set for both axles for $25. I went ahead and got the metal gear set and a spare pair of knuckles that will be installed when I decide what motor/ESC to use. I'll probably start with a Hobbywing QUICRUN WP 880 Dual Brushed ESC (2-4S) to replace the factory ESC/RX and keep the factory motors. It's cheap and has programmability. Only problem is replacing the TX/RX and keeping the steering switching is a problem. Lots of hacks on the webs (Flysky, etc.) but no real PnP solutions yet. I'm working this issue for both this rig and my AX24 build.

Can't see why not, limiting factor may be availability and pitch. Maybe a 10T in the front? I'll check into it.
Lots of potential in this rig, just remember it's $140 and built to that price point. Just adding stronger servos, better tires and doing the free mods gives a vast improvement for around $75. With Redcat now offering the Ridgerunner that's basically the same chassis with portals maybe we'll see some more aftermarket support. Redcat says they will offer the portals as a kit for the Ridgerock but no price or availability announced yet. That's definitely on my list!

I got the creepy crawly bug when I started on my AX24 build, but waiting on parts is really frustrating
Axial AX24 build
So in the meantime my LHS had a good price on the Danchee Ridgerock. After watching some tube stuff it seems this rig punches way above its weight.
OOB it was a floppy mess but with a few tweaks (also from the tubes) it really woke up.
Did the tummy tuck and spring pen mod. Moved the ESC/RX to the front angled part of the frame.
Stock tires were not that good so I put on a set of Amazon HobbyPark tires, an imitation version of the OG Prolines. Reused the original foams instead of the HobbyPark ones. A bit smaller but gives a little more "squish".
Stock servos were a little weak so on went some 35kg ones from the parts pile.
Added some shock keys and 15mm hub extensions to give a better stance and clearance.
With the shock keys on the original body wouldn't fit so I slapped on a cheapo body from Goodwill- yes, it isn't an Everest but at least it's a Redcat
It's set up to use a number of different battery sizes.
Next is to add some weight and maybe some Everest 10 hi clearance links.
If anyone else has one chime in- what kind of mods, thoughts and ideas you have.
View attachment 179914View attachment 179917View attachment 179918View attachment 179919View attachment 179920View attachment 179921

Keep those tires light, when it comes to the big or tight stuff you will break hubs. I used hyrax and broke hubs left and right. I stick with 1.9 tires in summer and 2.2 in winter. No hub issues unless I really bind it up.

Keep those tires light, when it comes to the big or tight stuff you will break hubs. I used hyrax and broke hubs left and right. I stick with 1.9 tires in summer and 2.2 in winter. No hub issues unless I really bind it up.

 

[bozo]

Keep those tires light

I'm using the stock rims and aluminium extenders so the wheels are about as light as they can be. I'm really hoping that some metal hubs will be available someday. Do any of the Everest series fit? They are available in metal.

I love this thing

I see you've replaced the steering links. Traxxas? Also, are those Everest 10 lower links? Looks like you know this chassis pretty well. Any other tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm really digging it also. That body looks good on it!

 

[WickedFog]

Sweet. I like the mods. I have one also. I love this thing, cheap and keeps up with my capra with some easy mods View attachment 180006

That is one cool looking truck!

 

[Willy0942]

I have had the danchee for three years now and with stock motor and esc I found are best match for me. I broke too much with dynamite motors and dual 1080 esc, constantly fixing it every run.

 

[bozo]

broke too much with dynamite motors and dual 1080 esc

Nice to know. I figured the wimpy axles wouldn't play nice with more power. Maybe with the Ridgerunner just released we'll get some beefier driveline parts.

 

[Willy0942]

Nice to know. I figured the wimpy axles wouldn't play nice with more power. Maybe with the Ridgerunner just released we'll get some beefier driveline parts.

Hopefully, haven't even looked at it yet.

 

[WickedFog]

Contact Vitavon. That guy makes all kinds of stuff. Maybe he can whip something up for you.

 

[Willy0942]

Contact Vitavon. That guy makes all kinds of stuff. Maybe he can whip something up for you.

Thanks for the info, will definitely look into that.

 

[Krakentuned RC]

Vitavon ain't cheap.

 

[Willy0942]

That is one cool looking truck.

Vitavon ain't cheap.

For sure not

 

[Willy0942]

I'm using the stock rims and aluminium extenders so the wheels are about as light as they can be. I'm really hoping that some metal hubs will be available someday. Do any of the Everest series fit? They are available in metal.

I see you've replaced the steering links. Traxxas? Also, are those Everest 10 lower links? Looks like you know this chassis pretty well. Any other tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I'm really digging it also. That body looks good on it!

I would have to look into it but I believe traxxas, sorry didn’t realize you were asking, and haven’t looked into hubs lately may have something out there now. I also put smaller battery in, still 2s, and runs forever. Until someone figures out metal parts and gears, I'm try to keep it super light. I use my battery from a wltoys 124019, 2200mah and I believe 35c

I would have to look into it but I believe traxxas, sorry didn’t realize you were asking, and haven’t looked into hubs lately may have something out there now. I also put smaller battery in, still 2s, and runs forever. Until someone figures out metal parts and gears, I'm try to keep it super light. I use my battery from a wltoys 124019, 2200mah and I believe 35c

I will take some pics of it without body, when I get home or when I wake. So you can see what I've done. I raised the rockrails up for more clearance, just with dividers from my parts box, and cut body as low as I could, that body is the prototype and has some extra holes.

 

[Willy0942]

I would have to look into it but I believe traxxas, sorry didn’t realize you were asking, and haven’t looked into hubs lately may have something out there now. I also put smaller battery in, still 2s, and runs forever. Until someone figures out metal parts and gears, I'm try to keep it super light. I use my battery from a wltoys 124019, 2200mah and I believe 35c

I will take some pics of it without body, when I get home or when I wake. So you can see what I've done. I raised the rockrails up for more clearance, just with dividers from my parts box, and cut body as low as I could, that body is the prototype and has some extra holes.

 

[Willy0942]

I will take some pics of it without body, when I get home or when I wake. So you can see what I've done. I raised the rockrails up for more clearance, just with dividers from my parts box, and cut body as low as I could, that body is the prototype and has some extra holes.

Also Everest10 high clearance links, I think they are both same length front and back.

 

[Willy0942]

Pretty much the same thing as yours. I like how low the body is on that with caged in. Does yours seam to have overdrive in the front it spins a little faster on mine? Probably just plastic gears, you can see it most when climbing.
I also have an Everest 10 that has rear wheel steer and it is manual with a knob on remote for now, till I get a new transmitter/ receiver. But I like the manual option. Can move it to exactly the position I want the rear in.

Pretty much the same thing as yours. I like how low the body is on that with caged in. Does yours seam to have overdrive in the front it spins a little faster on mine? Probably just plastic gears, you can see it most when climbing.
I also have an Everest 10 that has rear wheel steer and it is manual with a knob on remote for now, till I get a new transmitter/ receiver. But I like the manual option. Can move it to exactly the position I want the rear in.

I also want to buy a dual motor esc for this. Maybe hobbywing.
Dual 1080 esc and dynamite 380 motors and this thing becomes a beast, if you watch what you are doing in tight areas and careful with throttle pretty fun, but who wants to do that. Lol