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conquistador monster truck

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"You get what you pay for" rings in my ears when I see rigs like this. Not saying it's horrible....I've never owned one. Bashing takes it's toll on rigs though....and you want to make sure you get a PROVEN tough and durable rig. The HPI Savage and Traxxas Revo come to mind when thinking Monster truck....but the MGT is awesome as well as others.

I would stick to a brand name if I were you....
 
I second that. There are a lot of nice trucks out there. But they may not be worth the money paid. Or you may not be able to get parts at your LHS. Then your stuck on the sideline watchin everyone else have have fun.
 
heyya guys, i just bought the new conquistador monster t and i have a few problems... i am a motor mechanic technition but i know jack s___ about nitro trucks. i done all the prechecks and i was about to brake in the engine by running it on bricks for 5 tanks etc etc but it kept cutting out after 5 secs so i messed with the carb and now it runs but it sprays pure fuel out the exhaust >.< and the engine keeps changing pitch (its a brand new engine and truck btw so tell me if this is normal) like going high and low rpm... please can you help :(
 
Id start by studying all the information found HERE. It goes over how to break in your engine as well as two different guides for tuning it. I would not recommend breaking it in on bricks. I dont really like the heat cycle method which is described in that link but its better than running it on bricks. Personally I use Squirrel's break in method which is somewhat similar to Robin's break-in method (unless I'm mistaken). Robin is one of the vendors here who mod nitro engines and makes after market tuned exhaust pipes. Squirrel is just a guy on youtube with a lot of RC experience who makes instructional videos. Squirrel has a whole giant video series on doing break-ins Id watch the whole break-in series. Heres the first one.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO_2DoUaU8A"]Why Do We Do Nitro Break Ins? Vid 1 Squirrel's Ultimate Break In Guide II - YouTube[/ame]
 
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no no, i only ran it on bricks to check the brakes lol, the rest i done on the ground. It seems ok at the moment, i restored it to factory settings (the high and low speed needle, and idle needle) and I've done 3 out of 5 tanks of fuel of running it for 5 mins then leaving it to cool down then running again for 5 mins etc... but the engine still goes high and low pitch without me touching the throttle, I've checked fuel lines and radio connection feq and when i pick it up the wheels spin slowly then really fast then slow etc...
 
Don't concern yourself with this while you're still in the break in stage. Once you get past the 5 tanks you start to retune for the next few. Running the basic 5 doesn't mean you can beat it full out on tank 6.
Once you have a few more tanks through, and it's been tuned for better takeoff and speed, that's when you see if there's another problem causing the idle issue.
It's usually an air leak somewhere in the engine or the fuel system.
 
heyya again, i got a new problem... when i try to start my conquistador, the pull starter goes really hard and its hard to pull, but after the glow plug has warmed up a little it gets easier, is this normal for a new engine, I've broke in the engine by doing all 5 tanks without touching the throttle then 2 tanks worth of figure of 8's on half throttle but it is not tuned yet. oh and when i lift it off the ground and accelerate, the both offside (drives side, right hand side) wheels spin and the near side wheels (left hand side) are stationary and then i accelerate a little more and the left hand side wheels spin, is this normal too for an un-tuned engine?
 
oh yeah and the engine kept cutting out when i used the brakes but i sorted that now, i only had a 0.8mm idle gap now its 1.2mm so thats fine, I'm looking at lsn and hsn tuning atm.
 
As far as the wheelspin - sounds pretty normal. You pullstart - I think because you are still early with its use the piston and sleeve will still need to wear some more so its almost "locking up" because the engine is still new. Try a preheating to expand the cylinder which will give you more space inside the block and should allow you to pull it easier. I simple hairdryer should do the trick for just a couple minutes pointed at the base of the head where it meets the crankcase.
 
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