Car Audio HELP!?!?!?

[.21Rc10GT]

Shadey,do you have pic's of the twin 9500's in a install,i want to put one in my blazer but i haven't seen really how big they are.

I think he explained they are 15"...

 

[greenwing7]

where do you put your stuff if you want to go on vacation??

 

[Got Nitro?]

I think he explained they are 15"...

I know there 15",i can fit a pair of them in my blaze if i wanted,but i don't ,i just wanna see the overall size in a car install,and if your going on vacation you put all your stuff in the back seat,that way if you have kid's they can stay home :devious:

 

[CorradoPsi]

Eddy, what you need is the new JL audio "clean sweep" its specifically designed to aliviate the problem that you have with your factory system. it basically cleans up the sound comming from your bose unit and sends the modified signal to your amps, which in turn send it to your new speakers. you WILL need amps with a new setup because bose systems amplify at the speaker unlike standard stereos that amplify at the head unit. so the bose signal is wimpy at best. I'm a big alpine and mb quart fan myself, but your best bet is to go to a stereo shop with YOUR cd and listen to several different speakers till you find a set you like. tweeter is a good place to do this around here because you can listen to the different speakers powered by all the different amps so you get a more accurate representation of what they will really sound like. i called the local shop here, and they quoted me 1700-2000 to do your car right with good poop. that includes the JL piece, amps, wiring, speakers, subs, and labor. look for a reputable privately owned stereo shop to do your install, I've had better luck with those places than corporate shops like tweeter and circuit city.

 

[FastEddy]

Well I have started the install.
I'm finding some great deals locally on used amps from *People I know* I got a RF Punch 800a4 for $120.00 for the fronts and rear fills and am working on a JBL 600.1 for the sub. He wants $150.00 for it but IMO is a bit much. At the end of its run it went from 499 to 219 new. Its a great amp and ill take it for $125 if I can.

I ordered a PAC OEM1-Nis to change the head signal to unbalanced and to adjust the line voltage. Its a direct plug in to the head. It gives me 4 RCAs and a control lead to go to the amps without having to cut the factory wires. I also ordered a unit that will give me 2 axillary inputs and run off of my SAT button. It allows me it use the steering wheel controls as well. Now I can use both my SAT and iPod

I got a 4 gage install kit that has the 4 gage wire, 150 amp fuse, amp splitter to 3 8 gage wire, grounding blocks, 14' RCAs, and 50' for speaker wire.

I got the wire installed from the battery to the fuse block in the engine compartment today then ran out of light. Ill need to get the 2nd amp and the PAC unit before I can truly start to install everything.

Next is the seekers, sub, and enclosure. I'm only in it for $300.00 so far.

 

[sweetdiesel]

If you don't have one already I suggest getting a dash mount for your ipod. I have mine right within hands reach so I can change songs on the fly. It's also mounted high enough so a quick glance is all it takes to check the screen.

www.proclipusa.com

 

[shadey26 ntc3]

Shadey,do you have pic's of the twin 9500's in a install,i want to put one in my blazer but i haven't seen really how big they are.

I dont have pics of the two 9500 that were in installed in my car, I took it out because I am redoing my car for my shop, the whole car is striiped out right now, But here is a pics of the single 15 sub in the mtx enclosure

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I know there 15",i can fit a pair of them in my blaze if i wanted,but i don't ,i just wanna see the overall size in a car install,and if your going on vacation you put all your stuff in the back seat,that way if you have kid's they can stay home :devious:

Are you nutts? do you know what that is going to sound like? lol. I have put two 15 mtx 6500 a while back in a 97 blazer and in was dope. real dope. But two 9500 is going to be really stupid loud. lol the more the better i allways say, Mine I never really turned it up or sat inside the car with it up. it was to much preassure on my ears, It would make your shirt move. I used the one above in the pic with a thousand watt mtx mono amp and one sounded like 3 12, no kidding, The preassure is insane, The only set back is that theses type of speakers really take to much power,I tried 600 watts and the speaker didn't even more. plus the set back on your wallet. at my cost Just playing around with them set me back close to about 2 grand, retail would be about 3 grand or more. Hey but if you could do it go for it, You thought your neihbor didn't like you before ,wait till you turn that thing up. Try the one first. You will be happy ,I promise!

 

[Got Nitro?]

lol the whole point of putting two 9500 is that i might enter spl comp,i doubt it but i mite,and the fact that my system will be louder than my dads,my neighbors already hate me,i got a Mtx Road Thunder Pro system in my garage that get's loud enough to vibrate there windows.

 

[FastEddy]

Battery Ground??
I went to my local car audio shop and he had some interesting comments about grounding the battery.

His recommendation was to use the same gage wire used from the positive battery terminal to the amps (for me 4 gage) and make an additional ground to the chassis from the negitive terminal.

He says most people forget to do this and it is the cause of most electrical issues in car audio including noise and dimming of headlights. He says that most people get a cap when they truly aren't needed in most moderate installations.

He says that when peak power is being drawn that the ground can't keep up with the output.

It most certainly is an easy task. Can anyone here prove or disprove his logic?

 

[4u2nv]

All I know is when I was competeing, Monster caps actually hurt the Db scores because they slowed the currents down. With what your running, I dont think you will have any probs without a cap, and yeah I've always used the same guage wire for ground as I did for the main power wire. I've never had any probs, when I know thats a big problem (Bad ground) for alot of systems.


And Shady, I had 2 DD's (Digital Dynamics) in a Blazer that we used to compete with and it cracked the windshield and used to make the wipers dance. poop was awesome. Honestly I wouldnt waste the money on MTX's (theyve gone to crap and basically your only paying for the name.) (There amps are o.k. though) Look into some IDQ's, DD's, Memphis's, or some Juggernauts if ya want to compete and bring in some major numbers. My 15" DD's (I had 4 of them at one time in a Geo Full mod) And each sub weighed over 100 Lbs! They were hand made and at the end of the year or when we blew them, we would send them back in and they would recone them for free. There service couldnt be beat.

Anyway, Ed be sure to keep us updated and let us know how its comin!

 

[vbgagnon]

Just make sure you have a GREAT connection with your ground. 99 times out of 100 if you have any signal interference its due to a bad ground, and one more thing run your power wire on the opposite side of your speaker and rca wires. This will help with any other noises.

 

[Plaidfish]

heard a few people mention the wire runs....why make 2 runs? wouldn't sheilding the Signal Cables be just as good?

 

[vbgagnon]

I've tried the sheilding thing and I still got a faint wirring sound, it went with the rpm of the engine. The higher rpm the higher pitch sound. Its a little more work, but it pretty much guarentees a clearer sound.

 

[shadey26 ntc3]

All I know is when I was competeing, Monster caps actually hurt the Db scores because they slowed the currents down. With what your running, I dont think you will have any probs without a cap, and yeah I've always used the same guage wire for ground as I did for the main power wire. I've never had any probs, when I know thats a big problem (Bad ground) for alot of systems.


And Shady, I had 2 DD's (Digital Dynamics) in a Blazer that we used to compete with and it cracked the windshield and used to make the wipers dance. poop was awesome. Honestly I wouldnt waste the money on MTX's (theyve gone to crap and basically your only paying for the name.) (There amps are o.k. though) Look into some IDQ's, DD's, Memphis's, or some Juggernauts if ya want to compete and bring in some major numbers. My 15" DD's (I had 4 of them at one time in a Geo Full mod) And each sub weighed over 100 Lbs! They were hand made and at the end of the year or when we blew them, we would send them back in and they would recone them for free. There service couldnt be beat.

Anyway, Ed be sure to keep us updated and let us know how its comin!

Man someone who is into the same thang as me not being rc cars, lol. I can't really agree on what you say about mtx, but hey we all have our own oppion, I sell mtx like crazy. but anyways. Me and my co-owner are planning on building a spl van and if you have any advice please feel free to holla at me. we just purchased a chevy astro van 95 and we allready gutted it, mtx is trying to kick down but I was thinking about earthquake products, I still have to pick a cat to compete in, hopefully if we win it can put are shop more on the map. Can you send pics of ur last car. thanks

 

[FastEddy]

Now to show my ignorance on this subject......

I have my 4 RCAs going from the head to the rear where the amps are. The amp I'm using for the front / rear speakers is a RF 800a4

I'm going to assume I will plug the RCAs into the proper inputs on that amp. It has (2) RCAs out that are labeled Bypass. Again ill assume I run a patch cord to the second amp for my sub. Its a JBL 600.1 On that amp there are 4 inputs. 2 labeled front and 2 labeled Rear.

How do I wire this up?

 

[vbgagnon]

Do you have a sub output on your head unit? If not I would hook up both front and rear into your sub amp. This way you will still have a balanced bass sound.

 

[FastEddy]

Would I split the signal from the main cable then go to each amp? or split the bypass from the first amp?

The bypass doesn't say sub, just bypass.

From the manual:
The RCA Pass-through provides an easy way to daisy-chain an additional amp without having to run a second set of wires from the head unit.

 

[vbgagnon]

I think the best way to do that would be to use the bypass for both the front and back into your sub amp. I'm suprised that the doohickie you got that works with your factory head unit does not have a sub output.

 

[shadey26 ntc3]

Now to show my ignorance on this subject......

I have my 4 RCAs going from the head to the rear where the amps are. The amp I'm using for the front / rear speakers is a RF 800a4

I'm going to assume I will plug the RCAs into the proper inputs on that amp. It has (2) RCAs out that are labeled Bypass. Again ill assume I run a patch cord to the second amp for my sub. Its a JBL 600.1 On that amp there are 4 inputs. 2 labeled front and 2 labeled Rear.

How do I wire this up?

so your saying that your amp the 800a4 has a out put on it labeled bypass or thru output right. If so you can run a rca from your 4 channel amp to your sub amp. they make it this ways so you dont have to run extra rca if your head unit does not have enough rca outputs or is your setup requires it, the pass thru on your 4 channel amp is not affected buy the crossover on the amp. To adjust your sub output you are going to have to do one of two things. Your amp might have a remote gain control or your going to have to get a rca gain control, I Think I might have a extra one if needed i will search for it.

 

[FastEddy]

Here is my amp for the front and rear speakers.
I assume I plug the RCAs from the head into the proper front and rear plugs.
Then from the pass thru I will plug the Red and White RCAs into what set of plugs on amp 2? (Sub)

Front Amp

Sub Amp