Can you use acrylic and enamals together?

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Siphon is more for like people that do larger canvases and t-shirts. Gravity feed is the one you want. As far as psi, play with it and see what works best. That Bloodshot Airbrushing guy I watch always sprays st 40 psi with his Iwata's. I don't see how it could spray at 8 psi unless you were spraying water, but I don't have that brush.

I have had a few of different ones though, Paasche, Badger, Master, etc, and all of them have done best for me between 30-40 psi. Check out some reviews on yours and see what they spray at. But there is nothing in the airbrush that will explode if you go higher than recommended. And when I looked up the Neo brushes, I was seeing all kinds of different pressure ranges from 5-35.
OK, Ill give it a shot when I get to that project and see what happens. I gotta replace a broken moisture trap on my air compressor. I know people who use lacquers and enamels shoot at lower PSIs like 15- to 20 psi so I was assuming thats what I was going to be stuck using but I guess we'll see :)
 
Do you know of any other product on the market that is like Faskoat? I want to put down some metal flake before I shoot color but everyone seems to be out of stock of Faskoat.
 
Do you know of any other product on the market that is like Faskoat? I want to put down some metal flake before I shoot color but everyone seems to be out of stock of Faskoat.
You can spray a heavy coat of Faskolor clear (after a dry light coat), then get a pepper shaker to sprinkle automotive metalflake on while the paint is still wet. Give it another coat or two of clear, then paint as normal.

If you want to spray any kind of flake out of the airbrush, you are going to need something bigger than your airbrush tip is. I think your brush has a .35mm tip size? You will need at least a .5mm. Can you even get a .5mm for that Neo? Createx has a clear with flake called Pearl-Flake. You can get it with various color flakes. If you can move up to a .5mm tip, I would try that.
 
You can spray a heavy coat of Faskolor clear (after a dry light coat), then get a pepper shaker to sprinkle automotive metalflake on while the paint is still wet. Give it another coat or two of clear, then paint as normal.

If you want to spray any kind of flake out of the airbrush, you are going to need something bigger than your airbrush tip is. I think your brush has a .35mm tip size? You will need at least a .5mm. Can you even get a .5mm for that Neo? Createx has a clear with flake called Pearl-Flake. You can get it with various color flakes. If you can move up to a .5mm tip, I would try that.
Iwata makes a .5mm cap, nozzle, and needle replacement set for the Neo but I'm not sure of what it means when they say "Iwata Neo Airbrush Replacement Parts 0.5 mm Nozzle for BCN". The BCN part is throwing me as IDK what that means. So I guess my question is do I buy the conversion for one of the airbrushes for $40 or do I just buy another bigger airbrush? If a different airbrush what would you recommend?


So I'm looking at the creatix pearl-flake you were talking about. Looks like you buy the pearl-flake in the color you want like THIS which is a concentrate and you mix it with THIS Createx 4004 Transparent Base. Is that the gist of it?

Do we determine if the Creatix paint was bonding with the polycarb shells? I dont remember where we landed on that.
 
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Iwata makes a .5mm cap, nozzle, and needle replacement set for the Neo but I'm not sure of what it means when they say "Iwata Neo Airbrush Replacement Parts 0.5 mm Nozzle for BCN". The BCN part is throwing me as IDK what that means. So I guess my question is do I buy the conversion for one of the airbrushes for $40 or do I just buy another bigger airbrush? If a different airbrush what would you recommend?
I have a Paasche, Badger, and 2 Master airbrushes. The Master brand are the cheap chinese ones, but they have gotten a lot better over the last few years. I say that, but the last one I bought I had to return because of a messed up trigger lever. The 2nd one if I screw the .5mm tip protector all the way down it cuts off the air and nothing comes out of the brush. So I just leave the tip slightly loose, or remove the tip protector completely (which I usually do anyway). So it is doubtful I will buy any more, but for $35, they really aren't bad for what I do.

Iwata is the best brand unless you get into the crazy stupid ones that artists use. If you can get another needle, tip, etc, grab it. Createx says you need a .5mm nozzle, so that is the only real specification you need to worry about. But, not sure what BCN means either.

Badger is not known for being a top end brand, but are actually quite good according to that guy I watch. My Badger is like 30 years old, and I don't even use it anymore. So I can't say for sure.

There are also the trigger type brushes, kinda like a cross between a spray gun and an airbrush, which are made for heavier applications. That might be better for what you are doing, but I have never used them, nor have I sprayed actual metal flake out of an airbrush. So let me know 😉

The pearl flake is meant to be sprayed in between coats, like a clear, then the flake, then the backer. You can spray instead the candy, then flake, then backer. Or you can even mix the flake with the candy and spray together then do a backer. Different backers will give different effects.

I am like you and I do a ton of research. But you will find as you get into acrylics, the recommended directions are sometimes just to get you to buy more products it seems. I am far less technical and just put it in the brush and spray. Like the candy stuff Createx sells - they say you HAVE to mix it at THIS ratio with THESE reducers. My son sprayed that speed shape after I poured some candy in the cup, added a few drops of some homemade thinner, and he went to town.

So grab the pearl flake, some clear, and some candies, and have fun! It is not as hard as the directions make it out to be. You should also grab some transparency paper (clear sheet) and test it out. Or you can buy speed shapes at www.dipyourcar.com

I meant to add - if you are wanting to do a yellow flake, spray a clear coat and let it dry. Then give it a coat or two of yellow candy, just to make sure all the flake stays under yellow. Then add the flake to some yellow candy and spray. I would try this first. Then back it with another color. Black will make the candy only visible in the highlights, but the flake will make it look yellow sparkly. White will make the yellow you saw in my speed shape, but sparklier. Silver will make it all pop. You could even do some luminescents as the backer for some really crazy effects!

WHEW!
 
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I have a Paasche, Badger, and 2 Master airbrushes. The Master brand are the cheap chinese ones, but they have gotten a lot better over the last few years. I say that, but the last one I bought I had to return because of a messed up trigger lever. The 2nd one if I screw the .5mm tip protector all the way down it cuts off the air and nothing comes out of the brush. So I just leave the tip slightly loose, or remove the tip protector completely (which I usually do anyway). So it is doubtful I will buy any more, but for $35, they really aren't bad for what I do.

Iwata is the best brand unless you get into the crazy stupid ones that artists use. If you can get another needle, tip, etc, grab it. Createx says you need a .5mm nozzle, so that is the only real specification you need to worry about. But, not sure what BCN means either.

Badger is not known for being a top end brand, but are actually quite good according to that guy I watch. My Badger is like 30 years old, and I don't even use it anymore. So I can't say for sure.

There are also the trigger type brushes, kinda like a cross between a spray gun and an airbrush, which are made for heavier applications. That might be better for what you are doing, but I have never used them, nor have I sprayed actual metal flake out of an airbrush. So let me know 😉

The pearl flake is meant to be sprayed in between coats, like a clear, then the flake, then the backer. You can spray instead the candy, then flake, then backer. Or you can even mix the flake with the candy and spray together then do a backer. Different backers will give different effects.

I am like you and I do a ton of research. But you will find as you get into acrylics, the recommended directions are sometimes just to get you to buy more products it seems. I am far less technical and just put it in the brush and spray. Like the candy stuff Createx sells - they say you HAVE to mix it at THIS ratio with THESE reducers. My son sprayed that speed shape after I poured some candy in the cup, added a few drops of some homemade thinner, and he went to town.

So grab the pearl flake, some clear, and some candies, and have fun! It is not as hard as the directions make it out to be. You should also grab some transparency paper (clear sheet) and test it out. Or you can buy speed shapes at www.dipyourcar.com

I meant to add - if you are wanting to do a yellow flake, spray a clear coat and let it dry. Then give it a coat or two of yellow candy, just to make sure all the flake stays under yellow. Then add the flake to some yellow candy and spray. I would try this first. Then back it with another color. Black will make the candy only visible in the highlights, but the flake will make it look yellow sparkly. White will make the yellow you saw in my speed shape, but sparklier. Silver will make it all pop. You could even do some luminescents as the backer for some really crazy effects!

WHEW!
Ok, so I ordered the creatix pearl-flake concentrate and the transparent suspension medium. Also I discovered that the BCN is the model number for the Neo siphon feed and CN is the model name of the gravity fed Neo. The CN is a .35 tip and the BCN is a .5 tip.

I did find a gravity fed Badger (Says its made in the USA) that has a .5 tip for $58 on Amazon so i went ahead and ordered it too since I feel like gravity feed is going to be preferable in most cases.

I also found 8 sheets of polycarbonate on Amazon for $18 gonna go with that for test pieces. Those speed shapes look good too but since I'm already ordering stuff from Amazon...Just seems easier and should produce the same result more or less.

My main concern now is if the Creatix will actually bond with the polycarb. If I have issue I'll also try spraying some adhesion promoter first and see what results that yields.

Thanks for the crash course on airbrushing :)
 
Ok, so I ordered the creatix pearl-flake concentrate and the transparent suspension medium. Also I discovered that the BCN is the model number for the Neo siphon feed and CN is the model name of the gravity fed Neo. The CN is a .35 tip and the BCN is a .5 tip.

I did find a gravity fed Badger (Says its made in the USA) that has a .5 tip for $58 on Amazon so i went ahead and ordered it too since I feel like gravity feed is going to be preferable in most cases.

I also found 8 sheets of polycarbonate on Amazon for $18 gonna go with that for test pieces. Those speed shapes look good too but since I'm already ordering stuff from Amazon...Just seems easier and should produce the same result more or less.

My main concern now is if the Creatix will actually bond with the polycarb. If I have issue I'll also try spraying some adhesion promoter first and see what results that yields.

Thanks for the crash course on airbrushing :)
There is a vid on YT of a guy testing Createx on lexan with and without the adhesion promoter. It made no difference at all. My speed shape is hardening up. I did a fingernail test yesterday, and another this morning. I will go do another now and show you the results so far... brb

Forgive my crude illustrations...
20210719_180852.jpg

Ok, in this image, 1 was yesterday. Paint still felt like a thin coat of rubber.

2 was this morning. Paint is definitely still soft.

3 was just now. Paint is still soft, but getting better.

This black on this next body is just Createx. Nothing else. In the first pic, looking inside, you can see the slight crease I put in the lexan while draging my thumb across the paint. Since it would be an easy fix, I really tried peeling it off. So much so I bent the lexan.
20210719_181623.jpg

Here is that area from outside. As you can see, no adhesion modifier needed at all.
20210719_181237.jpg

This Ferrari body was painted a month ago. The speed shape will get here too. It just takes a few days. Plus we sprayed it in a hurry, 7 or 8 coats in less than an hour.
 
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There is a bid on YT of a guy testing Createx on lexan with and without the adhesion promoter. It made no difference at all. My speed shape is hardening up. I did a fingernail test yesterday, and another this morning. I will go do another now and show you the results so far... brb
I have everything ordered now so if creatix bonds to polycarb then were in business :)
 
I have everything ordered now so if creatix bonds to polycarb then were in business :)
Sounds good brother. I look forward to seeing your results. I have a feeling I will be buying some flake paint 😉

Just to add, I have sprayed Faskolor and I cannot tell a difference in how tough these paints are. I have seen posts where people say to back with Krylon Fusion or Rustoleum when using Createx. I just don't see the need for it. It is a lot tougher than I expected.
 
Sounds good brother. I look forward to seeing your results. I have a feeling I will be buying some flake paint 😉
If my paint job even comes out. I feel like I've got an ambitious project ahead of me. Got a couple other projects to do first though. Ill let ya know fo sho :)
 
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